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Help wanted to dust-proof my modeling cave

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12 replies
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  • Member since
    March 2009
  • From: Yorkville, IL
Posted by wolfhammer1 on Wednesday, December 17, 2014 9:23 PM

Drywall is not hard, but it does help to have someone who knows what they are doing show you.  Once you have taped a joint or 2, its pretty easy

  • Member since
    November 2008
  • From: Central Florida
Posted by plasticjunkie on Sunday, November 23, 2014 7:24 PM

There is nothing to drywalling. You don't even need to tape the joints if you don't want. Becomes even easier if you have a buddy help you. Here's a crafty way of doing it yourself:

www.youtube.com/watch

 GIFMaker.org_jy_Ayj_O

 

 

Too many models to build, not enough time in a lifetime!!

  • Member since
    December 2013
Posted by CodyJ on Sunday, November 23, 2014 6:03 PM

Sounds like a good plan!

  • Member since
    January 2013
Posted by BlackSheepTwoOneFour on Friday, November 21, 2014 8:14 AM

The missus is always right. LOL!

  • Member since
    July 2014
Posted by modelcrazy on Thursday, November 20, 2014 11:41 PM

Good call.

Steve

Building a kit from your stash is like cutting a head off a Hydra, two more take it's place.

 

 

http://www.spamodeler.com/forum/

  • Member since
    July 2008
  • From: Vancouver, the "wet coast"
Posted by castelnuovo on Thursday, November 20, 2014 9:59 PM

Thanks for the input gentlemen. The drop ceiling seems to be the way to go and a drywall on the, well, walls. Mrs. Castelnuovo also likes the idea, so it is a go.

  • Member since
    November 2008
  • From: Far Northern CA
Posted by mrmike on Wednesday, November 19, 2014 6:35 PM

When I enclosed a workspace in my shop for a "clean room" I used 4'x8' sheets of styrofoam insulation, screwed to the rafters with drywall screws, using small fender washers to spread the holding area of the screws. Pretty lightweight solution, and the added R-value helps keep things more comfortable.

Mike

  • Member since
    July 2014
Posted by modelcrazy on Wednesday, November 19, 2014 2:49 PM

If you looking for a quick and easy non-long term solution, then take some 2, 4 or 6 mil plastic tarp and staple it to the joists. True a drop celling or drywall would be the preferable solution, but the tarp will solve the immediate problem. You should be able to get a 4 mil 10x25 roll for around $10 - $15 depending where you live, and it's something you can do yourself in just an hour or two. Later, with the available funds you can get a celling or drywall up.

Now the tarp will act like a vapor barrier, so don't trap the air between the joists at the ends, or you may find your trapping moisture along with the dust.

Steve

Building a kit from your stash is like cutting a head off a Hydra, two more take it's place.

 

 

http://www.spamodeler.com/forum/

fox
  • Member since
    January 2007
  • From: Narvon, Pa.
Posted by fox on Wednesday, November 19, 2014 2:13 PM

Ditto on the "either way".  Another plus to the drop ceiling is that if you want to pose your aircraft in flying status, you can easily lift up a panel and loop the string or wire hanger over the frames.

Jim Captain

 Main WIP: 

   On the Bench: Artesania Latina  (aka) Artists in the Latrine 1/75 Bluenose II

I keep hitting "escape", but I'm still here.

  • Member since
    January 2013
Posted by BlackSheepTwoOneFour on Wednesday, November 19, 2014 10:02 AM

I agree - either drop ceiling panels or drywall. Either way you can't lose.

  • Member since
    April 2009
  • From: Longmont, Colorado
Posted by Cadet Chuck on Wednesday, November 19, 2014 9:39 AM

A wall-board solid ceiling installed by a professional dry wall installer would be the best thing to do, unfortunately this would cost hundreds of bucks, depending on size.

Gimme a pigfoot, and a bottle of beer...

  • Member since
    April 2013
Posted by KnightTemplar5150 on Wednesday, November 19, 2014 3:01 AM
I'm not a contractor, so you'll need to take my two cents with a grain of salt here, but a drop panel ceiling may be a cost effective solution for you. It's not very difficult to do. Essentially, an aluminum frame gets tacked into place at the height you want the finished ceiling to be. The frames are light and easy to cut; the trick is to ensure they are spaced evenly to fit the panels. The hardest part is cutting spaces in the panels to fit heating ducts, light fixtures, and the like. Just score the panels with a utility knife along a straight edge a few times and then snap it apart. In addition to helping you out on the dust problem, the panels will help to reflect light back down on your work area, which is always a plus! If you're not a DIY guy, a contractor in your area can probably give you a decent quote for installation.
  • Member since
    July 2008
  • From: Vancouver, the "wet coast"
Help wanted to dust-proof my modeling cave
Posted by castelnuovo on Tuesday, November 18, 2014 9:09 PM
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