Oil Paint Wash...

Oil takes a long time to dry on it's own.  I am not sure exactly how long, I would honestly do the wash then set it aside for a good day or so.

Actually, I was working on a kit, if your doing more oil work over the wash, just do it even when its still wet I did it and it came out fine.

Thanks for the advice. I was shocked to learn that it will takes few days to dry from some oil painting forum. Then again, thats art painting where the application is thick. Its different in model making when we just apply a thin wash. Will let it dry a day or two before I moved on to drybrushing and pastel application.

What are you using the oil wash for?  I am finding that oil washes are best used when you have a lot of other oils.

I would suggest also asking this question in the painting forum- washes are discussed there a lot, and you may find folks there who do not check this forum.

The amount of time it takes for a wash to dry depends almost  entirely upon the carrier--ie, the solvent--that you use to dilute and spread the oils. The ambient humidity and temperature also plays a part.

My first wash was done on some sails for the Monogram Curry Sark model, and I made the mistake of using linseed oil. I swear it took a full month for those damned things to dry!

Now I use low-odor mineral spirits, and a wash will dry in less than an hour, even under a half-hour sometimes. And you can speed it along with a hair dryer to under five minutes in many cases as well.

If you're waiting more than an hour for your wash to dry, you're probably using the wrong kind of carrier.

Linseed oil is what I use, but what I do, instead of just waiting...  After a few hours to half a day I just hit it with some topcoat, gloss, dull or whatever.  It doesn't affect it and your going to need to anyhow, the oil is way to glossy if you use linseed oil.

Karl, I got that same kit in my stash, literally DIRECTLY behind me

At the reduction levels you're using for a wash, oils will dry pretty fast, variable, as Karl says, on the thinning medium you're using. Personally, I use Mona Lisa Odorless Thinner. Flows exceptionally well and attacks NOTHING. I've used it over unprotected enamel several times with literally zero ill effects.  Washes are typically dry enough to handle in 1-2 hours. And the beauty of it is that you can come back and re-wet them with additional thinner, for at least a good day or two. When I'm done playing the washing came, a clear coat seals it up nice. 

smeagol the vile

Linseed oil is what I use, but what I do, instead of just waiting

Bad choice. Linseed oil is usually only used to thin oil for painting on canvas.Try low odor mineral spirits instead.

Hmmm... thing is, dont mineral spirits thin enamels and acrylics as well?  I like using the oil washes because they can be done and stand alone, their thinner not even touching the other paint, let alone reacting with it.  Mineral spirits are what I use to thin my enamels, I'm afraid using it to thin the oils would just cause to many problems.

smeagol the vile

Hmmm... thing is, dont mineral spirits thin enamels and acrylics as well?  I like using the oil washes because they can be done and stand alone, their thinner not even touching the other paint, let alone reacting with it.  Mineral spirits are what I use to thin my enamels, I'm afraid using it to thin the oils would just cause to many problems.

Personally, I use Mona Lisa Odorless Thinner. Flows exceptionally well and attacks NOTHING. I've used it over unprotected enamel several times with literally zero ill effects.

Seriously, try it. It's more expensive than the hardware store stuff, but 1) you don't use much of it at once, especially since it's not cleaning airbrushes and whatnot, and 2) it's substantially cheaper than model thinners. You can find it by the gallon for about $18 online (or $8 for 32 oz). Think it's right around $20 at Hobby Lobby. 

smeagol the vile

Hmmm... thing is, dont mineral spirits thin enamels and acrylics as well?  I like using the oil washes because they can be done and stand alone, their thinner not even touching the other paint, let alone reacting with it.  Mineral spirits are what I use to thin my enamels, I'm afraid using it to thin the oils would just cause to many problems.

I use Acrylics almost for 99% of my builds. I admit I'm a little cheap, but other than the strong odor, the mineral spirit from the hardware store or hardware section from Walmart is what I use. I don't get any adverse reaction over my acrylic paints and most of the time from 30 to 45 minutes is good to. Since I discovered how nice Acryl Clear Flat, Semi and Gloss seals my models, I never looked back to Gloss or Dull Cote.

the doog

 

Well, even if you're using enamels--which, in this day of superb acrylics, I'm not sure why people still use these paints which STILL need to "gas out" before drying?-

 

I still use enamels pretty regularly for two reasons.

First - I have yet to find an acrylic that drybrushes anywhere near as well as MM or Floquil enamels. When I've tried, it's been ridiculous brush clogging nastiness.

Second - I tend to have far fewer issues with tip dry and paint dusting with enamels. But that's primarily with Tamiya. I've tended to have much better luck with Vallejo and Lifecolor.

I use enamels, acrylics, laquer, and oil ALL in every project I work on.

enamels are for the base coat, there harsh enough and versatile enough to really hold up to whatever I can throw at it, only thing better would be laquer.

I use acrylics for the majority of the painting.

Oil for washing and texturing

Laquer for top coats and inbetween coats for layering of washes.