I would say very little.

I used to judge RC scale events a lot. In the rules there was a requirement to provide at least 3 view documentation and documentation on the paint/finish scheme.  I thought this was a good idea- not depending on judges' knowledge of every subject model.   I would like to see something like this required for important events (Nationals, maybe regionals).  On the other hand, the "building" photos do not do much for me.  They don't prove that the interior of the real subject looked like that.

Thank you !

I wouldn't think so either. Especially since more often than not at IPMS events the judges are NOT judging their main interest area. Since you can't judge a category you're entered in this forces most judges to an area they're not familiar with and thus wouldn't follow on the internet. Personally, If I enter a piece that has had a lot of modification or scratch building I print out a glossy 5x7 photo of it unpainted and put with the model.

Good idea !

If they use them at all they are not following their own rules...

Do contest rules prohibit photo documentation?

Sprue-ce Goose

Do contest rules prohibit photo documentation?

No, they don't. In fact, documentation is addressed specifically in Section II, Paragraph 5 of the Competition Handbook:

"

II. Contest Definitions and Judging

5. CONVERSION category entries must represent a version different from that provided by the basic kit. The conversion must contain significant structural modifications to the basic kit involving extensive changes in contour or configuration. These changes must be the work of the entrant. In addition to the normal judging criteria common to the entire contest, judges of the Conversion Category will give special consideration to the complexity of the conversion. A conversion accomplished with primarily commercial aftermarket parts will be at a disadvantage, therefore, against a conversion accomplished primarily by the builder's craftsmanship--assuming both are finished to similar standards. Simple conversions may be entered in regular categories. More extensive conversions, however, must be entered in the appropriate conversion category. The builder must detail the conversion changes made to the base kit on the entry sheet or accompanying documentation. Judges have the ultimate authority to determine a model's category placement, and such decisions by judges will be final."

And in both Armor and Aircraft categories the following is stated: "Models with unusual colors or color schemes should be accompanied by documentation."

And under the sub- heading of ACCURACY in the section titled:

Did you ever wonder about . . . ?
(Miscellaneous Thoughts on Judging and Competition) 

"It's simply not possible for all IPMS judges to match, model for model, the expertise developed by our disparate and incredibly knowledgeable membership. Don't assume that the judges know all the details you know. Help them and help yourself by putting a little time into the entry sheet or any other display material you put out with your model. Judges do read that stuff, and it could make the difference for you."

My empahsis added for quick reference and clarity.

When in doubt, it's always good to check the IPMS Competition Handbook. That said, it's very likely that basic errors will eliminate a model well before conversion, accurizing or super detailing come into play.

Thank You , ajlafleche  !

A conversion accomplished with primarily commercial aftermarket parts will be at a disadvantage, therefore, against a conversion accomplished primarily by the builder's craftsmanship--assuming both are finished to similar standards

Been sayin' that for years, mostly in here..

All that money spent on AM parts may not help ya a bit... Neither will that 50.00 "contest quality" kit with another 30.00 in AM parts, if you're up against a guy (who knows what he's doing) with a 12.00 Lindberg or 14.00 Monogram kit, all other things being equal...

That said, it's very likely that basic errors will eliminate a model well before conversion, accurizing or super detailing come into play.

True dat...

Basically, if you're not willing to do all THIS stuff: (Using Aircraft as an exmple, but this has a lot of the same guidelines)

AIRCRAFT

 

Basic Construction

 

1. Flash should be removed from all parts.
2. Mold, sink, copyright and ejector pin mark should be filled or sanded off.
3. Seams must be filled.
4. Contour errors should be corrected.
5. Detailing that was removed while accomplishing the first four steps should be restored to the maximum extent possible.
6. Wings and horizontal stabilizers should have the same amount of dihedral or anhedral on both sides.
7. When viewed from above, the wings and stabilizers should line up correctly with each other and the centerline.
8. Fins or rudders in twin combinations should be aligned when viewed from the front and side, and their angles in relation to the stabilizers should be the same.
9. Engine pods, nacelles and cowlings should be lined up correctly when viewed from the top, side and front.
10. Landing gear should be properly aligned when viewed from the bottom, sides and front. Main gear should be aligned with each other when viewed from all 3 positions and all wheels should touch the surface.

11.  Canopies and other clear areas should be free of fogging, fingerprints or white areas   caused by glue. Scratches in clear parts should be polished out.   Gaps between the canopy and other clear parts and the fuselage should be eliminated unless they would be visible on the real aircraft.

 

Details

 

1.      Thick parts, like the trailing edges of wings and tails, bombs and missile fins, etc., should           be thinned down to scale or replaced.

2.      Wheel wells should be built if no kit detail is given. There should be no “holes” through which the interior of the wings is visible, unless the real plane was built that way.

3.      Intakes should be blocked off if they allow you to see into the empty, un-detailed fuselage.

4.      The openings on guns, exhaust stacks, intakes, vents, etc. should be drilled out if possible.

5.      Details added to the model should be in scale with the rest of the model.

6.      External stores should undergo the same care in construction as the basic kit. Care and research should be applied to make sure the combination of weapons and tanks is consistent with reality.

7.      Any aftermarket parts should integrate well with the basic model. Photo-etched parts that require shaping should be precisely shaped and any surfaces that need to be built up to a thicker cross-section should be smooth and uniform.

 

Painting and Finishing

 

1.      All glue marks should be removed.

2.      Judges “shouldn’t” nit-pick colors, but any model with an especially unusual color scheme should be accompanied by documentation.

3.      Frames on clear parts should be painted with crisp, straight lines.

4.      Paint should be even and smooth, unless there is prototypical evidence to the contrary. There should be no brush marks, no “orange peel” or “egg shell” effect to the paint. No fingerprints, dust or fibers should be embedded in the paint.

5.      Paint edges that are supposed to be sharp should be sharp.

6.      Weathering should show concern for scale, the terrain and weather condition in which the prototype operated and should be consistent across the entire model.

7.      Decals should be aligned properly, unless the modeler has documentary evidence to the contrary. Decal film should not be readily apparent and there should be no silvering or bubbling of the decals.

You shouldn't expect to win anything.

Hans von Hammer

Basically, if you're not willing to do all THIS stuff: (Using Aircraft as an exmple, but this has a lot of the same guidelines)

(saving electrons by not reprinting the entire post by Hans.)

You shouldn't expect to win anything.

If you get more of these right than the next guy, you win. If you fail on every count and you're the only entrant, you win. This is what everyone is expected to aim for. Obviously, very few will achieve this and the handbook does not weigh any of these; that is up to the judges, and why it's so much fun to judge when every model in a class is severely flawed!

The big local contest I went to every year up in Syracuse prohibited the display of photos with model entries. You COULD, however leave a closed book of photos next to it to for interested parties to view. But the judges were forbidden to take that into account.

The following sentence froom the IPMS rules is intresting "Judges “shouldn’t” nit-pick colors, but any model with an especially unusual color scheme should be accompanied by documentation."

I think is is very important if your model is from and aircraft (or other subject) that is different from the standard, for instance if you build a model of an aircraft with double or wrongly placed nationality markings it is best to show documentation of the actual aircraft.

the doog

The big local contest I went to every year up in Syracuse prohibited the display of photos with model entries. You COULD, however leave a closed book of photos next to it to for interested parties to view. But the judges were forbidden to take that into account.

Yes, I recall the  IPMS sheets meant to be filled out with written notes detailing work performed.

Sounds like contests are pretty much unchanged despite easier model photography due to modern digital cameras.

Hans, I agree. Still need to do quality work first.

Hans von Hammer

Basically, if you're not willing to do all THIS stuff: (Using Aircraft as an exmple, but this has a lot of the same guidelines)

 

 

AIRCRAFT

 

1. When viewed from above, the wings and stabilizers should line up correctly with each other and the centerline.
2. Fins or rudders in twin combinations should be aligned when viewed from the front and side, and their angles in relation to the stabilizers should be the same.
3. Engine pods, nacelles and cowlings should be lined up correctly when viewed from the top, side and front.
4. Landing gear should be properly aligned when viewed from the bottom, sides and front. Main gear should be aligned with each other when viewed from all 3 positions and all

This is fine for aircraft. In most cases movable assemblies like doors were operated by hydraulics or such.  But there is a similar rule for ships and this would not be true for the rigging on ships.  Yes, it was an objective for naval ships to try and get everything squared away, though on many ships this was an unfulfilled objective. On merchant sailing ships it was almost never the case, as photos from the clipper eras bear out.  The rules for sailing ships should be changed!

There're guidlines for ships as well, Don.. I just didn't bother to add them to the post...  I only used Aircraft as an example.. But a lot of what's in the Aircraft (and Armor, and Automotive, etc) are found in the criteria for ships, as well "ship-specific" guidelines...

And quit bangin' yer yer frikkin' head AJ.. I said they were guidelines... And, note the frequent use of the word, "should", vs. "must" or "will"...

The following sentence froom the IPMS rules is intresting "Judges “shouldn’t” nit-pick colors, but any model with an especially unusual color scheme should be accompanied by documentation."

Apparently you glossed over that in my "Guidelines" post...

In a perfect world, there should be photo-documentation of anything you build if it's anything but Sci-fi/fantasy and fictional/what-if...

But I ain't in charge, and I've ruffled too many feathers with a few IPMS "officials" too busy with their Feifdoms to listen to a mere mortal to ever BE in charge... Especially those that have been any closer to an actual military aircraft, AFV, or weapons-system than a reference book...

Frankly, I think they need to take a Mydol to get the "pms" outta IPMS...