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Runs in Future

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  • Member since
    March 2007
  • From: Carmel, CA
Posted by bondoman on Monday, October 31, 2011 1:20 AM

Clouded canopies are definitely a 6 to a 7 on the SCRIM. Many the Frog and Heller, and wait for it, Mach 2 kit have good representations of distorted vision plex.

In fact the Mach 2 Mariner I have is so bad it's probably a 10.

No breasts. Sea Blue-fu. Warped wing-fu, Garbage gun castings. Gratuitous decals and extra vomit for wing halves that are 1/4" different in length and French origin. HvH sez "check it out".

  • Member since
    June 2008
  • From: Iowa
Posted by Hans von Hammer on Sunday, October 30, 2011 10:28 AM

I don't like Future at all except for the clear parts.

I've tried that dipping-thing  too...  But it just doesn't look right afterwards... The canopies are too clear, if you get my drift...  

  • Member since
    February 2011
  • From: Bent River, IA
Posted by Reasoned on Saturday, October 29, 2011 9:04 AM

bondoman

 Hans von Hammer:

  

Testor's Gloss Coat...

3 minutes..

Done...

Wink

 

Oh I am with you! I don't like Future at all except for the clear parts. It is way too thick, acts in strange ways with Micro sol and set, leaves brush marks and is generally hard to control.

I always have a stash of Testors Dulkote and Gloskote in the little rattlers. I've tried Krylon, the various artist fixatives etc. and the good thing abt Testors is it goes on very thin.

Ditto

Science is the pursiut of knowledge, faith is the pursuit of wisdom.  Peace be with you.

On the Tarmac: 1/48 Revell P-38

In the Hanger: A bunch of kits

  • Member since
    March 2007
  • From: Carmel, CA
Posted by bondoman on Friday, October 28, 2011 11:41 PM

Hans von Hammer

 

 

For a model, you have to kind of rotate it around for 15 minutes or so to let it set.

 

Testor's Gloss Coat...

3 minutes..

Done...

Wink

Oh I am with you! I don't like Future at all except for the clear parts. It is way too thick, acts in strange ways with Micro sol and set, leaves brush marks and is generally hard to control.

I always have a stash of Testors Dulkote and Gloskote in the little rattlers. I've tried Krylon, the various artist fixatives etc. and the good thing abt Testors is it goes on very thin.

  • Member since
    January 2003
  • From: Washington, DC
Posted by TomZ2 on Friday, October 28, 2011 9:48 PM

Runs in Future” is my Indian name.

Occasional factual, grammatical, or spelling variations are inherent to this thesis and should not be considered as defects, as they enhance the individuality and character of this document.

  • Member since
    June 2008
  • From: Iowa
Posted by Hans von Hammer on Friday, October 28, 2011 4:41 PM

For a model, you have to kind of rotate it around for 15 minutes or so to let it set.

Testor's Gloss Coat...

3 minutes..

Done...

Wink

  • Member since
    March 2010
  • From: Democratic Peoples Republic of Illinois
Posted by Hercmech on Friday, October 28, 2011 11:43 AM

Good tip Owl


13151015

  • Member since
    January 2010
  • From: Nebraska, USA
Posted by CallSignOWL on Friday, October 28, 2011 11:32 AM

salvine

Tried searching for info but seem to have issues with searching here. Any tips? Anyway, I have a couple runs and I was under the impression that adding more future later would soften the prev coat and smooth out. That does not seem to be the case. Just sand and reapply?

 

Thanks, Steve

 

Ive had runs before after applying Future too heavily. The easiest way to get rid of them is to soak a Qtip in future and scrub at the puddle. After a moment, the puddle will be gone with no damage to the underlying paint.. This is the quickest, easiest, and least damaging technique I've found in dealing with runs/puddles of future. No sanding needed! Smile

------------------------

Now that I'm here, where am I??

  • Member since
    May 2010
Posted by salvine on Friday, October 28, 2011 11:20 AM

Paint is acrylic so I may need to do some sanding. I might try some Windex on a rag and lightly rub to see what happens.

  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: Sydney, Australia
Posted by Phil_H on Friday, October 28, 2011 2:49 AM

bondoman
Soak it in ammonia and wipe it off after an hour or so. Windex is a great solution because it's diluted.

Ok if your model is painted with enamels. However, if it's painted with acrylics, say goodbye to the entire paint job.

  • Member since
    March 2007
  • From: Carmel, CA
Posted by bondoman on Friday, October 28, 2011 1:43 AM

No don't do that. Soak it in ammonia and wipe it off after an hour or so. Windex is a great solution because it's diluted. That will do it, and then clean it with soap and water. Reapply the future. The trick with future is that it initially has the consistency of water but very quickly turns into syrup. For canopies, i hold them with a tweezer for a good five minutes over/ on a piece of paper towel and let it all slide off.

For a model, you have to kind of rotate it around for 15 minutes or so to let it set.

 

 

  • Member since
    May 2010
Runs in Future
Posted by salvine on Friday, October 28, 2011 12:54 AM

Tried searching for info but seem to have issues with searching here. Any tips? Anyway, I have a couple runs and I was under the impression that adding more future later would soften the prev coat and smooth out. That does not seem to be the case. Just sand and reapply?

 

Thanks, Steve

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