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Advice of Pro Builders

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  • Member since
    March 2011
  • From: So Cal Mountains/ High Desert
Posted by Skullbuck67 on Friday, May 18, 2012 2:31 PM

Thanks Lacquer Head.

  • Member since
    October 2008
  • From: USA
Posted by Lacquer Head on Tuesday, May 15, 2012 5:23 PM

Great work Skull, good attention to detail, keep it up, never sell yourself short.

"Lacquer Head feeds his one desire, Lacquer Head sets his brain on fire."

  • Member since
    March 2011
  • From: So Cal Mountains/ High Desert
Posted by Skullbuck67 on Tuesday, May 15, 2012 4:24 PM

Here is a link to a webshots album of one example of my work. A 1965 chevy. I employed many of the same aging and weathering techniques that i use on warbirds and armor.

http://home-and-garden.webshots.com/album/580072387ncUhOa

 

  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Rothesay, NB Canada
Posted by VanceCrozier on Tuesday, May 15, 2012 12:22 PM

Hans von Hammer

10.00 per hr flat rate + kit...

20.00 per if you watch...

30.00 per hr if you help...

40.00 per hr if you call me to "see how it's coming along"..

50.00 per hr if you "were just in the area and thought you'd drop by to see how it's going."...

 

 

100.00 per hr if you tried to build it yourself, then brought it to me..

Wink  My father has a similar system for home renovations...

On the bench: Airfix 1/72 Wildcat; Airfix 1/72 Vampire T11; Airfix 1/72 Fouga Magister

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, May 15, 2012 12:14 PM

Skullbuck67

Any commission builders advice would be greatly appreciated. I have recently been approached with a couple of commission offers. One 1/350 starship, one 1/35 armor. My question is: How do you price your museum quality work by level of detail and hours? What is the average rate now days?

 

Let me see some of your work and I'll tell you...

  • Member since
    June 2008
  • From: Iowa
Posted by Hans von Hammer on Tuesday, May 15, 2012 12:00 PM

10.00 per hr flat rate + kit...

20.00 per if you watch...

30.00 per hr if you help...

40.00 per hr if you call me to "see how it's coming along"..

50.00 per hr if you "were just in the area and thought you'd drop by to see how it's going."...

 

 

100.00 per hr if you tried to build it yourself, then brought it to me..

  • Member since
    March 2011
  • From: So Cal Mountains/ High Desert
Posted by Skullbuck67 on Monday, May 14, 2012 5:07 PM

Thank you all!. Every post here was most informing and greatly appreciated.

  • Member since
    March 2012
Posted by soul68 on Sunday, May 13, 2012 12:18 PM

Just my $.02 since I am a freelance designer and spend a good deal of time trying to effectively price my work.

First and foremost is always consider your skills worth something. If they weren't, then everybody would be doing it, and you wouldn't even have someone inquiring in the first place. There are far too many people out there who want something for nothing, and i always try to use it as a teaching moment to make them realize what's involved. You may not get the job, or even want the job, but by trying to teach them, maybe someday they'll "get it" and be more respectful of other people's time and skill. If nothing else you may help someone else in a similar position down the road have a better project experience.

I honestly tailor my responsiveness at times to how appreciative and understanding people are about what it takes to do such projects. If I get a feel for the person and it's obvious they don't value my time and skill, then that means they are going to abuse it. I happily walk away from the project.

If someone tries to manipulate me by telling me that I would be "doing it for fun anyway" or they will have "more future work that will pay", I call BS on this immediately and never take the project.

As far as pricing, it's up to you, but I always start high and negotiate down. Set people's expectations. Define the scope of the project and be sure they know when discussing aspects that fall outside the scope that it will cost extra money. Clear and decisive communication is key.

When considering a price, a lot of people don't consider opportunity cost, that is, what could you be doing instead of this project and what is that worth to you, (both in terms of actual dollars and value, such as time spent away from other hobbies, projects, family etc). I think this is very important.

I never take pro-bono work if it means putting off a paying project. The exception to this is when a client is willing to allow me to work on it over a long period of time at my leisure.

And like some of the other commenters on here, I'd agree on what is the implementation of this piece. If it is going to be used in a for-profit setting, then under no circumstances would I ever do the work for free or even at a discount. Good businessmen ought to know the value of good work and be willing to pay for it.

And probably most importantly, get it in writing and make them pay up front for all material costs, and that's non-refundable. That way if something happens and they flake out on you halfway through or some other unforeseen event happens, at least you aren't holding the bag for all those expenses.

 

Good luck.

 

  • Member since
    October 2003
  • From: Southern California
Posted by ModelNerd on Saturday, May 12, 2012 10:38 PM

You'll want to charge no less than what you make hourly at your day job. Your "off hours" time is no less valuable than that. From there, simply estimate the number of hours you think you'll need to complete the projects. Now cushion that figure by around 10 - 15% to compensate for any overrun. If you come in on time and on budget, refund (or discount) the cushion.

- Mark

  • Member since
    October 2008
  • From: USA
Posted by Lacquer Head on Saturday, May 12, 2012 4:26 PM

I charge $350 to $450 for 1/35 kits.

It all depends on the bells and whistles.

"Lacquer Head feeds his one desire, Lacquer Head sets his brain on fire."

  • Member since
    January 2009
  • From: San Antonio
Posted by paintsniffer on Friday, May 11, 2012 1:02 PM

Well..

 

The cost of the kit, obviously

The cost of the paint, and aftermarket bits.

Not so obviously, add in something for shop supplies- sanding sticks, putty, xacto blades, etc.

That's your starting point.

From there, you kind of have to ask yourself how much this guy is willing to spend, and how badly you really want to do the work.

Then you also have to consider the timeline, and how much of a PITA the guy is going to be. Most people expect these things to happen overnight.

Personally, if I build a model for someone I usually do it for just the kit, and I tell them up front it will be a few months.. It takes a lot of the pressure out of things.

Excuse me.. Is that an Uzi?

  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Green Bay, WI USA
Posted by echolmberg on Friday, May 11, 2012 12:26 PM

One MILLLLLION dollars.

Signed,

Dr. Evil

  • Member since
    April 2006
  • From: ON, Canada
Posted by jgeratic on Friday, May 11, 2012 12:22 PM

I think the price will largely depend on who the client is. If it is some sort of institution you could probably ask for more than you would from a private citizen.  Definitely should cover the cost of the kit and supplies.   The other dollar amount would be how much time dedicated to the project will make it worth to you, offset by the fact that your work will be possibly displayed to the general public. 

-sidenote- As a portrait painter I never charged by an hourly rate.  My commissions are based on canvas size and the number of people, along with detail in the background.  My prices were always low, never equaling the hours spent even if I had charged minimum wage.

regards,

Jack

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Fort Knox
Posted by Rob Gronovius on Friday, May 11, 2012 11:55 AM

Museum quality isn't usually of very high quality or well detailed. Museum quality pieces tend to have fewer detail parts because of handling and dusting that it must be able to go through. Museum quality display pieces are often of a generic version of a particular vehicle and not normally super accurate. They need to look good from about 6 feet away.

The real masters are those that have attained a certain level of recognition for their builds. These are normally models that have been subjected to high levels of scrutiny by their peers.

  • Member since
    January 2007
Posted by the doog on Friday, May 11, 2012 10:42 AM

I did a commissioned work once, for the product, basically, I got some good figures to make a model that was used for the box art.

Then I had some guy from Texas contact me about making a replica of my "Rust Bunnies" rusty Nomad diorama--but he wanted me to do it for basically nothing.

That's a tough call. Basically, you have to explain to the prospective purchaser what si involved, what you will spend in materials, and what YOU think your time is worth.

You should also consider where and how the model will be used--will it go into a museum? Is it part of a memorial? Will it be only for personal display?

And then again, you have to walk the fine line between pricing yourself out of the market or having your client feel that someone else would be "honored" to have their work represented or displayed.

Bottom line is, I don't think there's really a "going rate". It's up to you to decide what you think your art is worth.

  • Member since
    March 2011
  • From: So Cal Mountains/ High Desert
Advice of Pro Builders
Posted by Skullbuck67 on Thursday, May 10, 2012 5:28 PM

Any commission builders advice would be greatly appreciated. I have recently been approached with a couple of commission offers. One 1/350 starship, one 1/35 armor. My question is: How do you price your museum quality work by level of detail and hours? What is the average rate now days?

 

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