Glueing clear plastic

For windscreens in automobiles I use PVA (white craft glue aka brand: Elmers). This can be used for the clear periscope parts that some current armor models include. 

Head lights, tail lights, search light lenses, and other small clear parts can be set with acrylic clear like Future floor shine or other hobby brand clear. Just dip a brush into medium and apply where needed to 'glue' the clear part in. 

Dittos for using Future floor shine, and I also like Aleene's Crafty Glue (I think that's how you spell it). It's like Elmers glue, but it makes a stronger bond. It dries clear, but they have a clear glue version as well. It comes in a gold bottle, and you can even find it at Walmart.

Glenn

I recently had great success using Future to glue the canopy to a model.  To avoid slopping any on the paint on the fuselage, I simply made a small puddle of Future on a piece of waxed paper, then set the canopy on the future, bottom edge down, to get a light coating on it.  I then gently dropped it in place on the airplane and left it alone overnight.  Seems to have made a strong bond, and absolutely no excess running out anywhere.

Testor's makes a special transparent glue for clear plastic, but believe me, it ain't invisible when it dries.

Another option is watch crystal cement, but it is "stringy" and makes a rather pliable bond.  I think Future works best.

Be sure to sand off any paint that may be on the surfaces to be mated, and insure that the surfaces are flat and fit together well.

Ditto on Elmers glue or you can use Tite Bond both work excellent. ACESES5    ON BENCH DRAGON BISON 2

Cadet Chuck

I recently had great success using Future to glue the canopy to a model.  To avoid slopping any on the paint on the fuselage, I simply made a small puddle of Future on a piece of waxed paper, then set the canopy on the future, bottom edge down, to get a light coating on it.  I then gently dropped it in place on the airplane and left it alone overnight.  Seems to have made a strong bond, and absolutely no excess running out anywhere.

Cool tip, I am going to give that a try next canopy.

I've tried all the above and watch crystal glue works the best for me, Available at Hobby Lobby.

An addendum to my previous posting re using Future as glue:  Through personal experience today, I have found that it does not form a very strong bond, so be aware of this.  I am lowering my "idea rating" from 5 stars to 1 star.

I like that watch crystal cement, except its stringy nature makes it tricky to apply without leaving a "string" across the clear part.  It can be done, with care, however.

Ditto on using Aleene"s Crafty Glue. You can also get it at most Fabric stores like Joanne Fabrics (sp).

Jim

I highly recommend just using Elmer's-type glue; it may take a bit of time to dry, but it dries clear and is so easy to use.

Elmer's style glues work best by applying to both surfaces & letting it set just a bit before final assembly.  Use a q-tip soaked in water to remove excess, if any.

Reid

I recently bought "Micro Kristal Klear" at my hobby shop. It's under the category of canopy glue. You can also make small, thin filmed windows with it.

Bhamoggy, one trick I learned here from the fine forum folks is to paint the edge of the clear plastic to match the color of the surface onto which it will be glued.  For example, I was working on a plane with a black cockpit edge.  I painted the edge of the clear canopy black to match.  When it was dry, I glued the canopy to the cockpit using white glue.  When the glue dried, the "glass" of the canopy blended in nicely with the black edge of the cockpit without there being a discernible edge.  I hope that makes sense.

Eric

Thanks everyone for all their tips, bought so e elmers glue so gonna try that shortly

One big problem is if a transparency needs masking.  That is,does the molded transparency have a frame molded as part of the transparency, so that the transparent area needs to be masked while the frame area needs to be painted.  I find removing masking tape puts enough of a stress on the part that things like future and white glue types of adhesives frequently fail.  This is when I have to go to epoxy.

Another problem are windows of commercial and private aircraft (and some bombers).  You are painting after the fuselage is glued together, and these need masking If the parts come loose and fall inside the fuselage you have real problems. So I need a very strong and reliable bond for these windows.

HabaneroHal

If you're gluing I clear pieces that have framing that will be painted around the edges or mating surfaces you can use plastic cement. I use a touch n flow. I mask the piece then attach. Just be careful not to let glue stray.

Don, I've considered epoxy but I've worried about marring the clear part.  Is this not an issue?

I have found epoxy affects parts less than any other adhesive I use.  Just be careful putting it on- it really grips and is hard to remove after it cures (though it can be filed off).

I use toothpicks.

I still get fogging with Future, though you can remove the future coating after the glue sets.  However, I have not tried the strength of the bond. If I remove the future, won't that weaken the bond?