VTModel01
Things I do not understand
Glue: What glue do you use, does one use super glue all the time? Do you ever use the old Tester "melt it together" stuff I used to know? Is this something I will just figure out? Are there different glues for different applications? There is slow glue, runny glue, fast setting glue, etc?
Yes, to some degree, different glues for different applications.
Liquid (bottled hobby) cement is a good all around assembly product for plastic parts. Testor's bottle is an example, Plastruct is another. Tamiya has at least one. I apply Plastruct with a drafting pen, either to a seam and let capillary action draw the glue along or on the surface to be glues. If you're bonding two dissimilar materials, PE, resin, plastic, a
"super glue" will be your go to product. I like the Zap-A-Gap products. To get an super fast bond, an accelerator like Zip Kicker can be judiciously applied. Don't use the spray that comes in the bottle. A piece of wire, rod, stretched sprue or an old paint brush will work much better.
Paint: I do not understand the various painting instructions, not so much the detailing and weathering (techniques that I read about) as much as the decal preparation and the final preparation--I guess the overall process steps? I get the "paint the plane" step, but then you air-brush/spray the whole thing in gloss? Then you put on decals? Then you weather? Then you spray the whole thing in matt? Am I getting this right, I have yet to read anything about this that does not confuse this mind....
Gloss paint may simplify the process, but many military colors are not available in gloss. Also, gloss tends to dry more slowly and is prone to orange peel. Use the closest color you need to match the prototype. Let teh paint dry, acryics dry faster than enamels, Apply a coat of gloss. many people like Future Acrylic Floor Polish by Johnnson's Wax in the grocery store. Certainly more economical than hobby branded products! Any gloss will do. Let Dry. Apply decals. Some chose to seal with gloss before weathering, some go directly to flat. Try both and see what works for you. Weather. You want blend the decals in with with the rest of the model, since anything that happened to the paint on the prototype happened to the marking. Seal with a flat coat. Note: do not use Tamiya's Flat Base, at least not from the bottle. It's designed to be mixed with paint to flatten the paint. Some people mix it with Future to get a flat finish, but then you're complicating matters by needing to get just the right mixture or end up with a semi gloss finish or a milky white finish. Clear flat, such as Testor's DullCote from the bottle works great when shot through an airbrush.
Mold Details: It seem I have read conflicting things...one model demands you sand down the rivet marks, while another model is great because it has the rivet marks? In general, the panel definition and various outlines have improved over the years and I get this...why would one want to sand down a set of rivet marks?
You might not want to but then again,you might. Depends. Some vintage kits have extremely overdone rivets. Back in the late 60's and earl;y 70's we thought that indicated better detail. Old Airfix and some old Revell kits are among the worst. This is a case for research. Look up the prototype, in books or on line. If possible, see one in person at a museum. Note how prominent the rivets are or appear to be. Proceed accordingly.