I do this all the time. Here's what I do.
Dip the decal into water and then apply it to the model after wetting the area with WATER only. Set the decal in place and then wick away the excess water with a facial tissue.
Next, apply Solvaset. Let it sit on the decal for only 3-5 seconds.
Using a soft facial tissue, wet a balled-up section of the tissue, and press the wet ball of wet tissue against the decal with the Solvaset over it. This has the effect of diluting the Solvaset, thus stopping its "softening" effect, and also presses the decal into the paint.
Observe your decal, make sure it's in the correct spot still.
Next, repeat the same step BUT THIS TIME WITH SOLVASET ON THE BALLED-UP TISSUE. Wet the tissue with Solvaset and press it into the decal. THEN repeat the step with WATER again.
Repeat these steps as necessary.
After a few steps, you should get to the point where the decal is melted into the paint. You can reduce the possibility of silvering even further by cutting them as close to the printing as possible.
In the few cases where I've STILL gotten a small amount of silvering-like maybe on the insides of a "4" or the curve of a "5" or other similar letter, it's never been much of an issue to simply carefully paint over it.