Resin kit question

Personally, I use 5-minute epoxy. It takes careful planning and you have to work on small sections at a time but it works. Also, if this is your first attempt at resin, PLEASE, make sure to use a particle respirator and have good air circulation when sanding the stuff. The dust can cause all kinds of nasty trouble with your respiratory system.

Jim 

Superglue. But be sure to clean the resin parts really good first.

You really need several different viscosities when building a full resin kit. Some of the gel type is good for smaller details, but you often need some slow setting stuff when trying to position larger pieces.

I have used both CA (superglue) and epoxy.  Both work, but CA is easier and doesn't smell as bad.

Resin dust is inert. It's an irritant  at worst.. It is no more or less harmful than any fine dust.

Resin kits, accessories and figures have been around for at least 25 years. Check a box for CYA warnings. Small parts, choking hazard, not for children, but nothing about health.

Consider everything else around you... Captain Obvious puts warnings everywhere: Don't use a hair dryer in the shower, food coming out of a microwave may be hot (it better be!) a jar of peanuts contains...wait for it...peanuts.

Very large amounts, industrial amounts, of resin dust can be very combustible. The amounts we create don't ever come close to that. If you snort the dust off your workbench, that's probably not a good thing. But other than that, at most you might want a simple dust mask.

Back in the 80's,. some modelers decided that super glue was deadly because cyanocrylic sounded like it might be related to cyanide.

Which brings us back to the original question. I use Zap-A-Gap green for most resin items or for very large or heavy parts, 5 minute epoxy. larger parts might do better if pinned. For small parts, it's probably a good idea to wash them to remove mold release. I'd do this before cutting them grom the pour plugs, however.