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Resin kit question

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  • Member since
    April 2012
Posted by flaver 2.0 on Monday, January 13, 2014 6:40 PM
I use Gorilla brand super glue. It has polymers in it and is very strong yet still has some flexibility. Not as brittle like most super glues are. And it's cheap compared to the modeling brands. Also the cap reseals the bottle and it never dries out.
  • Member since
    January 2014
Posted by Silver on Sunday, January 12, 2014 6:35 PM
Try a gap filling ca.
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Massachusetts
Posted by ajlafleche on Sunday, January 12, 2014 1:51 PM

Resin dust is inert. It's an irritant  at worst.. It is no more or less harmful than any fine dust.

Resin kits, accessories and figures have been around for at least 25 years. Check a box for CYA warnings. Small parts, choking hazard, not for children, but nothing about health.

Consider everything else around you... Captain Obvious puts warnings everywhere: Don't use a hair dryer in the shower, food coming out of a microwave may be hot (it better be!) a jar of peanuts contains...wait for it...peanuts.

Very large amounts, industrial amounts, of resin dust can be very combustible. The amounts we create don't ever come close to that. If you snort the dust off your workbench, that's probably not a good thing. But other than that, at most you might want a simple dust mask.

Back in the 80's,. some modelers decided that super glue was deadly because cyanocrylic sounded like it might be related to cyanide.

Which brings us back to the original question. I use Zap-A-Gap green for most resin items or for very large or heavy parts, 5 minute epoxy. larger parts might do better if pinned. For small parts, it's probably a good idea to wash them to remove mold release. I'd do this before cutting them grom the pour plugs, however. 

Remember, if the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy.

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Sunday, January 12, 2014 11:39 AM

I have used both CA (superglue) and epoxy.  Both work, but CA is easier and doesn't smell as bad.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Fort Knox
Posted by Rob Gronovius on Saturday, January 11, 2014 10:17 PM

You really need several different viscosities when building a full resin kit. Some of the gel type is good for smaller details, but you often need some slow setting stuff when trying to position larger pieces.

  • Member since
    March 2010
  • From: MN
Posted by Nathan T on Saturday, January 11, 2014 12:37 PM

Superglue. But be sure to clean the resin parts really good first.

 

 

fox
  • Member since
    January 2007
  • From: Narvon, Pa.
Posted by fox on Saturday, January 11, 2014 12:19 PM

Personally, I use 5-minute epoxy. It takes careful planning and you have to work on small sections at a time but it works. Also, if this is your first attempt at resin, PLEASE, make sure to use a particle respirator and have good air circulation when sanding the stuff. The dust can cause all kinds of nasty trouble with your respiratory system.

Jim Captain

 Main WIP: 

   On the Bench: Artesania Latina  (aka) Artists in the Latrine 1/75 Bluenose II

I keep hitting "escape", but I'm still here.

  • Member since
    January 2014
  • From: Auburn Ca
Resin kit question
Posted by Daveroo on Saturday, January 11, 2014 12:08 PM

what is the best "glue" to use on a resin model?...i tried once with a aftermarket dirt modified but everything i tried would not stick...these being several brands and viscosities of modelers super glues,nothing stuck and it would allways just fall apart the next time i went to work on it. 

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