I agree with seasick as far as trying to saw it apart. If you can find it there is a small saw blade for exacto knives that is shaped like the No. 11 blade except that it has teeth on the straight edge of the blade. I use one on occasion and find it very useful. It might just do the trick in your case. I have also used a regular No.11 blade to separate parts but doing so can be tricky. If you can find a spot where there is a gap or where the glue didn't cover completely and left a void try to insert the tip of the No. 11 blade there and very slowly push it through the seam in a slicing motion rather than trying to forcefully pry it apart. Think of it like splitting a log. It's the shape of the splitting head that does the trick forcing the log to split along its grains. It's very similar in this case with the seam being the grain and the shape of the knife blade forcing it to split along that "grain." The big difference in this case is that you must go very slowly. Patience is key. I have used this method, successfully, to break apart model parts bonded with both model cement and CA.
As far as models bonded with CA I used debonder once to dissolve a seam and had disastrous results. I never tried debonder again. I was building Revell's 1/570 Titanic for a friend and used CA to bond the hull together. I made a mistake....don't remember what it was...and had to break the hull apart. I applied debonder made for CA to the seam and as I started trying to slowly break the seam apart the hull, where I applied the debonder, actually started cracking and literally falling apart. The damage was so bad that I eneded up buying a second kit for replacement parts. It's entirely possible that I did something wrong when using the debonder so I would recommend testing it on some scrap pieces of plastic if you ever want to try that method.