Enamel vs Acrylic?

From my understanding, at the very basics, acrylic is water based and enamel is oil based. Acrylics can be thinned fairly easy, enamels, IMO take a little more practice at thinning for airbrush use. I use acrylics becuase they dry and cure a million times quicker than enamels. Both are great mediums, just depends on skill and patience...I'm lacking the patience. In terms of actual aesetic difference, I'm not sure there is a huge one. That being said I tend to look at acrylics more often so I could be wrong. I used to use enamels exclusively, but the fumes got to me and I was tired of having a headache and wearing a mask. Good luck!

Ok thanks Squatch88!

The final results seem to be the same, visually, whether you use enamels or acrylics.  I guess the choice is in if you want to use water  or oil based paints.  

The prime advantage of enamels is that they tend to be more durable. The prime advantage of acrylics is their easier clean up. If you use both types, they can compliment one another...

It's not exactly an easy question to answer.

All paints have three basic components, a pigment, a binder and a reducer.

In modelling terms, "enamel" has come to be used to describe paints which use a petroleum (oil) based reducer (thinner). With few exceptions, most enamels formulated for models can be thinned using mineral spirits or a similar reducer.

The term Acrylic refers to paints which use acryl-based monomers (ie. of the acrylic family of plastics) in the binder. When an acrylic paint cures, the monomers join (or polymerise) to form long-chain molecules of acrylic plastic, forming the film of the coating. (Enamel paints also cure by polymerisation, but do not utilise an acrylic base). Ostensibly, in its uncured state, an acrylic paint is often (but not always) water soluble, but after the change of state of the molecules by polymerisation, after curing, it is no longer soluble in water.

Acrylic does not simply mean that the paint is water based and there are some acrylic model paints which are not. The type of reducer employed is immaterial to whether the paint is an acrylic or not. If it utilises an acrylic as a primary binder, it is classed as an acrylic. Acrylic paints can also utilise co-polymers such as latex or vinyl (eg. Vallejo) and still be classed as acrylic.

We have acrylic model paints which use alcohol as a primary reducer (eg. Tamiya Acrylic, Gunze Aqueous), water as a primary reducer, such as Vallejo and Lifecolor(?) or lacquer based (Gunze Mr Color).

Between these basic groups, the reducer isn't always cross-compatible. You can, to an extent, use water with Tamiya and Gunze Aqueous, but you cannot use alcohol with Vallejo or Mr Color. You can use Mr Color (lacquer) thinner with Tamiya and Gunze Aqueous. The easiest thing to do for the uninitiated is to use the manufacturer's own thinner to start with.

Confusing isn't it?

That's another point in the favor of enamels. Thinner is pretty much universal for all brands. Different brands of acrylics require different brands of thinners for best results.

I use acrylics 95% of the time due to the easier clean up and dry time. I use enamels for metallic finishes. or if I am mixing metallics with a solid color. I just think metallic colors look a lot more convincing than acrylic metallics.

B_one fixer

I use enamels for metallic finishes. or if I am mixing metallics with a solid color. I just think metallic colors look a lot more convincing than acrylic metallics.

Just generalising, but metallic enamels tend to be more durable too.

I have had to go exclusively with Acrylics,,,,,,,after over 40 years with enamels.

I do have a couple of "cheats" left around the house yet, though,,,,,,,I kept the Alclad primer as a back up in case I don't like my Acrylic primers, and I still have some lacquer thinner around in case I hit a tough cleaning job someday.

I also still have some of the putties and surfacers around, I haven't found a good substitute yet. It is hard to find a putty that tops the Tamiya and Mr Putty and Bondo Glazing putty, or a surfacer better than Mr Surfacer.

The number one difference between using an Acrylic and using an Enamel, as long as the smell is not an issue, is the outlook in how you use them. For Acrylics, we have to work at extending the working time, and preventing tip dry in the airbrush,,,,,for Enamels, we use things like Japan Drier to speed up the drying time.

But, once you master either one,,,,,,,you can get the same results with them. I know which models were painted back in my Enamel days, and which are from my current Acrylic days,,,,,and I am the only one that can tell. In ten years, unless I remember the exact time I built the model, I won't know which was the last of the Enamel models and which was done this year. For that matter, over on the "really old builds shelf",  I can't tell the Enamel models from the "real" Dio-sol Floquil painted models.

The main importance is to start off with the manufacturer's recommendations, and then to follow any of the hot tips you read on the forums afterwards. That way, you have a level to fall back on,,,,,,,,,which you won't have if you buy a paint and dive in with 5 hot tips for using it on your first attempt. If it doesn't work, you won't know what went wrong, and it will be hard for people to give you any help.

Rex

As far as enamels go, I can tell you that when you paint a model car fininsh with enamels,. you have to wait days, even weeks for it to "gas out"--to stop smelling like paint and for it to harden enough to risk sanding to a smooth finish.

Acrylics dry MUCH faster, and with little to no odor.

I prefer Tamiya Acrylic-Lacquers.  They're much more durable then either enamels or straight acrylics, and you can thin them with water, Tamiya thinner, or lacquer thinner for different applications and finishes.

Thanks very much everyone!!!

the doog

As far as enamels go, I can tell you that when you paint a model car fininsh with enamels,. you have to wait days, even weeks for it to "gas out"--to stop smelling like paint and for it to harden enough to risk sanding to a smooth finish.

I don't think that's a trait limited to enamels. I have seen exactly the same thing with gloss Tamiya acrylics. I did one car body where the paint was still soft after more than 10 days. It seems to be more related to the way gloss paints form an impermeable skin, restricting evaporation of the solvent. 

I exclusively use Enamels for dry brushing. I find it almost impossible to try to drybrush with acrylics. So, in short, enamels on top of acrylics, not the other way around.

Phil_H

...The easiest thing to do for the uninitiated is to use the manufacturer's own thinner to start with...

That's a conclusion I've come to over the years, though trial and error.  It was primarily driven by using Tamiya acrylics, and being Dutchy and using water or isopropyl to thin them (after I learned that since they're formulated for airbrushing, they really do need to be thinned to work best).  I found that water or isopropyl just didn't thin them as effectively as Tamiya's own acrylic thinner did.  I still use any old brand of mineral spirits to thin or clean enamels of all brand, but for acrylics, I'm more careful about what I use to thin the paints.

Hmmm... I have covered acrylics with enamels for years with no problems.

Rob Sherman

I exclusively use Enamels for dry brushing. I find it almost impossible to try to drybrush with acrylics. So, in short, enamels on top of acrylics, not the other way around.

Very true. Acrylics suck for both washes (except for pre made ones) and dry brushing.

Some swear by acrylics and others swear at them. I find that enamels spray much better and finer than acrylics. I can shoot extremely fine lines for mottling with the air pressure dialed down to 5-6 lbs. and spray all day long without any tip drying or clogging. I haven't been able to get that performance with acrylics. The only acrylics that spray better are Tamiya's. They are very durable too and have excellent adhesion qualities.  

Acrylic washes do not flow as good as the solvent type. I have tried pre mixed acrylic washes, added dishwashing soap etc,  and still the enamel washes flowed better than the acrylic ones.

You just have to try both out and see which one you like better.

Round 2 of thanks to the most recent posts to my thread - thanks so much - very informative!!

Phil_H

the doog

As far as enamels go, I can tell you that when you paint a model car fininsh with enamels,. you have to wait days, even weeks for it to "gas out"--to stop smelling like paint and for it to harden enough to risk sanding to a smooth finish.

I don't think that's a trait limited to enamels. I have seen exactly the same thing with gloss Tamiya acrylics. I did one car body where the paint was still soft after more than 10 days. It seems to be more related to the way gloss paints form an impermeable skin, restricting evaporation of the solvent. 

Hmm, it was thinned with Tamiya X-20A acrylic thinner, on bare plastic with no primer. There's two possibilities that I can think of.

1: The paint may have been laid on a little heavy. As you may be aware, X-7 Red can be a little translucent and needs a few coats to get good colour depth. 

2: I may have been premature in applying a clear coat (again, Tamiya X-22 clear, thinned with X-20A), sealing it all in, and perhaps creating the "skin" I mentioned.

I have since found that Tamiya's gloss paints seem to work a lot better when thinned with Tamiya lacquer thinner. It slows the drying time, giving even the edge of the spray pattern time to level, giving a good, glassy gloss sheen.

Typically, with alcohol or X-20A, the feathered edge of the spray pattern tends to lay down a rough edge due to the speed at which it dries, often causing a poor or uneven gloss.

marybarnes

Enamel paint is a solvent-based paint that creates a hard, durable, and glossy finish. It takes longer to dry, but once cured, it is resistant to wear and handling. Enamel is often used for a smooth, high-gloss finish on models, especially when a robust and polished appearance is desired.

That may be true of gloss enamels, but there are also matte enamel paints.  Model Master had matte paints in its line, for example, as does Testor.

And as far as gloss finishes go, Tamiya's X acrylics are gloss paints and the finish is as durable as the petroleum-based enamels like Testor.  The XF acrylics are the matte versions of those X colors.

To further confuse people, the old Pactra brand had water-soluable acrylic enamel paints in its catalog, both gloss colors, and matte colors in its Military Colors line.

OK this is a necrothread, which matters becauseeverything up to the last two posts has been superseded by new terms, new products and new manufacturers.

Bill

OK this is a necrothread, which matters becauseeverything up to the last two posts has been superseded by new terms, new products and new manufacturers.

Bill