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Thanks, Rob. I think for he short run I have a solution. I have a MonogramP-40 that has Chinese, US, and Brit markings. US for the P39, Brit for the P51B, and Chinese for the P-40. At least the P-40 will be authentic.
As far as Decal film, you can brush it on, or preferably, airbrush it on. Don't thin it; just airbrush it and let it dry an hour or so. I finished this ancient Johnny Rutherford McLaren that had the original decals.
click here
I'll fix it when I get a new set of decals. I'll have to strip what's on it. click here
Thanks Don, I will.
Just a reminder that there is a decal forum among the FSM forums, and disintegrating decals is a frequent topic. You might check there for existing threads that might have more info.
Don Stauffer in Minnesota
VN750 How does that work? You put it on the decal sheet?
How does that work? You put it on the decal sheet?
Correct, you just apply it to the decal already on the sheet before attempting to use. Allow it to dry and use like a regular decal.
What type of decals are you needing replaced? I might have some spares you can have.
One of the problems is that the roundels for say 1/48 on the fuselage of one plane is not the same size as the roundel on another. P39 vs. P 40 is an example from my collection. I wanted to use the P40 US insignia on the P39 because the P40 had the Brit and Chinese alternatives.
I looked on the internet and found offerings on the order of about $20. Hasegawa offered to replace my yellowed decals for the Dauntless Dive Bomber for about $10.00. I bought that one on ebay and Hasegawa would not honor the warranty because of the nature of the transaction, third party, etc.
There is a product called liquid decal film that you paint onto old, cracking decals.
http://www.microscale.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=MI-12&Category_Code=FINPROD&Product_Count=6
Yeah, I'm usually ok with spending ten or twelve bucks on new decals for an otherwise OOB build, if in doubt. Well worth the investment. Although, I've built some 20-30yr old kits and their decals went down just fine. I guess I've been lucky in that respect.
Chris
"Some say the alien didn't die in the crash. It survived and drank whiskey and played poker with the locals 'til the Texas Rangers caught wind of it and shot it dead."
It's most likely the age of the decals, and how they were stored before you got them that is the problem rather than manufacture lots. If they get exposed to large variables in temperature and humidity, that issue will tend to happen. It's a little more expensive, but I'd go for some good aftermarket decals, they're usually high quality (much better than kit makers until recently), and there's a tremendous range of markings for the aircraft you're building.
To the point: Monogram P51 Ding Hao! and P39 Confederate Air Force decals cannot stand the process of application without breaking up. Doesn't matter if you use Micro Sol or plain water. What I'm trying to determine is that maybe there is a recognizable window of Monogram production where this problem is most likely.
When I got back into the hobby I bought mostly Monogram on ebay. Even the Hasegawa I bought on ebay on ebay has decal problems. I bought a 60s era Lindberg Me 262 on ebay and its decals were bulletproof. I'm beginning to pile up planes that are unfinished due to decal problems. Since I bought so many Monogram models I would like to know what years of manufacture to avoid.
I've been swapping decals, ignoring accuracy, and nothing works. They are all disintegrating.
Thanks'
Les
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