Question about weathering materials

MisterScaleModeler

or buying expensive washes from vallejo and other companies.

you don't need to buy expensive ones, just get the correct colours for weathering in artists acrylics.

black, sienna, rust, terracota, etc.

I think one has to find out if the "modeling products" are merely repackaged bulk material for sale in hobby shops, vs unique products found no where else but in hobby shops. If the former, you get the same quality wherever you buy it.

Sometimes you do have to pay a premium for buying at a hobby shop when the sources for some materials are not well known, but the internet is making buying just about anything these days.  A number of suppliers who only sold in large lots before, are recognizing hobbyists as a good business and are now catering to hobbyists.  A good example is metal, such as aluminum, and plastics.  They used to require large minimum orders, and purchase orders.  Now they sell smaller orders and have handy online purchasing aps.  I suspect many materials will go this way.

Generally, I use modeling products to get the best results. Now, I'm a pretty "high standards" modeler, so I have to use what all the "Pro's" use to get these ultra-realistic finishes, but a lot of guys don't have that standard, or model more for themselves or for pure relaxation, and so cut corners and save money. No problem there.

However, you have to be both careful and lucky. Years ago I tried just using Baking Soda mixed into my enamel paints to simulate rust degradation on mufflers and tracks. Years later, the baking soda reacted with the paint and oozed a gelainous, oily substance out of the paint, resulting in the ruination of almost a dozen models. It taught me a powerful lesson; unless you're a chemist, and can accurately predict chemical interactions, you are tempting Fate by mixing together materials and chemicals whose interactions may not show up until years later, ruining your collection.

For that matter, I generally recommend to spend the few extra dollars and get set up with some quality product. The peace of mind and better results are well worth it in the long run.

Watch when mixing water and wood ashes.  That was the way they made lye soap back in the day and mixed in animal fat to finish it off.  Might end up with something that can burn your fingers.

Adding a small drop of liquid soap/detergent will reduce the tendency for water to puddle and bead.  Also, decal setting solution will perform the same task but at higher cost.

I echo Don's post. As an example, for what a bottle of MIG wash costs, I can make tons of equally effective wash with Home Depot turpentine and my artists oil set from Hobby Lobby I got with a 40%  discount coupon for about $11 5-6 years ago. The tube paints last years.

The exception IMO, is with the pigments. I have used grounded pastel chalks and MMP Powders and find that the MMP Powders perform much better than the ground chalk. Again, these powders will last years so their higher price is worth it.

The water potion you were describing above will probably not work too well because water has a tendency to puddle and bead but you can try and experiment. The rust pigment technique may work mixed in Turp.  IMO turpentine based washes perform better than the water based ones.

I actually just bought a set of these Earth Toned Soft Pastels on amazon for around $5. Has 12 shades figured I'd try them out since I'm going to be using these to replicate mud and grime. Thanks for the heads up on talcum powder I had never thought of that.

www.amazon.com/.../B000YQGAUO

I don't buy many hobby shop weathering products.  For washes and dry brushing I just thin my regular hobby paints of the right color.  For pastels and powders, many hardware stores sell dry pigments, often used for coloring plaster.  I also use drug store talcum powder in skin tone- it makes a great dust for dust weathering, or for weathering rubber or vinyl tires.