Soldering PE?

Yes, Souda99, it is absolutely possible to solder PE and even advisable to do so with pieces that will handle a lot of stress, such as fenders on a tank. No particular model of soldering iron is necessary, but the pencil-type irons are far more comfortable to use as opposed to to soldering guns. I've also used my jeweler's oxy-acetelyne torch to solder. The real trick is to remember that solder will not flow where the metal is not up to temperature or where surface contaminents impede the flow of the solder. Clean everything carefully and use a good flux, then clean again after the joint is set to keep the flux from affecting paint or attacking the metal later on. If you need to practice, just clip portions of the PE fret and join them together before trying it on the parts themselves. Some metals (copper and brass, for instance) are easier to solder than steel or plated metals. Just take your time - there's truly an art and science to soldering!

I haven't soldered PE parts but have soldered other stuff (electric guitar pots and wires, etc.).  I have the following soldering iron.

www.amazon.com/.../ref=sr_1_2

The Weller is infinitely better than cheap Radio Shack soldering irons I used to have.  Variable power control does make a big difference.

Do you guys use the solder paste or the rods of solder. I have not soldered PE yet but did make an access tower for a build with brass rod and it needed a lot of clean up after, so I really want to get the hang of it before soldering PE.

I haven't and not yet come across the need. I would guess it's a good idea for larger scales, where you are doing big joins.

GM,

I wouldn't say they are big joins. I'm currently working on the masts of 1/700 Perry class frigate, that's why I was wondering if a soldering iron would work or melt the metal. This is really the first time I have ever used PE in a kit so I'm kind of out of my depth so to speak.

soldering irons will not melt the pe but will distort it if you are not carefull. I use solder with the flux incorporated it.

Bish - I've used both paste and conventional spooled solder, but I give preference to very thin diameter rosin core on the spool. The paste has a very low melting temp, which is attractive, but depending on the manufacturer and the amount of heat being applied, it can be messy. The paste is made up of tiny particles of solder suspended in a thick flux - once the flux is burned off, the metal just doesn't flow properly again. It also tends to spall, leaving tiny lumps and balls of metal all over your piece. The spooled wire solder is just easier for me to work with because I have a lot more control over things and the job is much neater in the end.

Thanks for the advice Knight, I think I might need to try and find a thinner solder to what I have.

Paul Budzik has several tutorials here 

Brass and copper solder very well, and rosin core solder is enough.  Stainless, on the other hand, does not solder that well, and acid core may be necessary, but you may be able to clean it well enough with a solvent such as lacquer thinner before starting soldering.  A swipe with fine sandpaper helps too- do this before solvent cleaning.

KnightTemplar5150

....... I give preference to very thin diameter rosin core on the spool.

For hobby soldering, that has been my preferred solder as well, for a long, long time.

For soldering PE, I'd recommend a pencil iron like Chris's with a temp control. I have a similar one from Radio Shack.

I would guess the challenge is doing the "second" join on a given piece. The parts are so small and so thin that keeping the heat localized would be very difficult. I want to remember a technique from art class soldering jewelry (well, someone's gotta do it) where the assembly was clamped together, heated in an oven, and then solder is applied to all of the join locations before the piece cools down.

If you can find real mineral clay- admittedly a bit hard to find these days- it withstands high temperatures with no problem other than hardening a bit.  So I use it to hold assemblies together when I have to solder more than one joint.

Don Stauffer

If you can find real mineral clay- admittedly a bit hard to find these days- it withstands high temperatures with no problem other than hardening a bit.  So I use it to hold assemblies together when I have to solder more than one joint.

That's a good tip, thanks.

Thanks for the info guys. Now one more question. Which adhesive would you all recommend for attaching the PE to the model?

Lately, Gorilla brand CA has been my "go to" adhesive for etch because it seems to be very forgiving of my mistakes. It takes a little longer to set than the Zap-A-Gap CAs I've used in the past, but the joins seem a little less brittle. I have a tendency to knock piece of PE off while handling or painting, but I haven't had that problem with Gorilla.

I use white glue for any small light pieces, reserving CA for heavier assemblies, or pieces that are part of rigging (either control horns or wing rigging).  I always use the white glue for ship railings- they are admittedly heavier but I need the long setting time and they give a lot of gluing area so white glue works fine.

I STRONGLY recommend getting some of Adam Wilder's Liquid Soldering flux., It's amazing, and makes soldering PE a breeze.

One caveat to my statement that soldering brass PE is a snap- one must remove any residual resist or other coating.  You must be soldering bare metal to bare metal.  Once that is done, the weakest rosin flux, as in rosin core solder, is plenty adequate.  I use the fine diameter stuff meant for soldering ICs.

Make your solder into a ribbon by hammering flat it or squeezing it with smooth jaw pliers. Using  a water base flux like Nokorode will make cleanup a snap.

One of the most important factors when soldering is that your work is CLEAN. Also, solder is for joining parts, not a filler. The parts need to fit. Another tip is not to use too much heat, that will burn the flux and then it just becomes dirt.

I could go on...

and on, but you are right. Treat solder as a nuisance that shouldn't have to be there.