Perfect Plastic Putty Phoey

Bondo rules

You are applying it the wrong way. I use a thin narrow spatula applicator and apply it straight out of the tube and I let it dry. At about 30 minutes you can wipe most of the putty away with a damp Q Tip or a paper towel. The beauty about this putty is that you apply it to let's say a wing root, let it dry. Then wipe off the join with no sanding necessary not destroying any scribed details.

I get more control wiping  it away with a damp q tip when dry saving a lot of detail from being sanded away. And even when you do sand it, it produces a smooth surface that will not shrink as other fillers do. 

I don't know if something's wrong your putty or if you are not correctly applying it, but Perfect Plastic Putty is one of top 5 inventions for modeling in my book.

So you can see what this putty can do, notice the putty that was wiped off the wing root area where a gap ran. The wiping done with a damp q tip and tap water produced an even join that did not require any sanding.

On this old Monogram Mustang, the wing gun panel was glued shut but left a very uneven fit and visible sag. The area was filled with PPP, allowed to dry and sanded smooth correcting the sagging and bad fit.

The PPP mixture is so fine that it creates a super smooth sanded surface.

Silver metallic finishes magnify any minor goof but as you can see here, the gap and sag are gone from the wing panel and root area.

It's my go too filler, great stuff. Work with it a little and I bet you will get great results.

In my opinion I wouldn't say it's the greatest filler out there, but it certainly does work. I just wish I didn't have to wait a day for it to dry. For this reason I often choose the super glue/baking soda trick first, if I can get away with it.

"We tried sir but it... well it still came out un even" 

dirkpitt77

In my opinion I wouldn't say it's the greatest filler out there, but it certainly does work. I just wish I didn't have to wait a day for it to dry. For this reason I often choose the super glue/baking soda trick first, if I can get away with it.

mine is dry and sandable within an hour or two after application.

I've seen a mention of issues with it on another forum where it was overly hard in the tube - it's possible that there could be an iffy batch doing the rounds.

It's not supposed to be hard in the tube. Sounds like old or a bad batch. Mine is the consistency of toothpaste and spreads out very evenly and smooth.

I know this is an old thread, and don’t mean to be resurrecting any zombies, but hope I can get answers about this perfect plastic putty. 

I am interested to try PPP, mainly for its ability to be cleaned with water, thus avoiding sanding and loss of detail. I have a habit of washing my models prior to the paint job, to remove sanding dust and finger oils. 

So, after PPP has cured, is it still soluble in water? Wouldn’t want the filled seams to get washed away . Hope those who use PPP can provide their input on this. Thanks!

It will dissolve if you wash it. If using under NMF like any putty you must seal it with a clear coat like Future so the surrounding finish will match the filled area.

 I’ve been building models for over 50 years and have never washed a model  except resin parts that tend to have mold release oils. I either use compressed air or a soft flat brush to gently remove dust and junk. To remove fingerprints prior to paint I lightly wipe the plastic down with rubbing alcohol.

If it thickens  the tube add a few drops of distill water and shake, it will become soft again.

I have had great results with the Vallejo putty, but it can get pricey!

Hi,

I've had trouble with Perfect Plastic Putty before too.  Similar to what the OP noted mine was very hard while still in the tube, to the point where it was basically impossible to sqeeze it out of the tube.  As such, I suspect that its possible that either it can sometimes go bad in the tube or that there are occassional bad batches.

PF

PFJN

Hi,

I've had trouble with Perfect Plastic Putty before too.  Similar to what the OP noted mine was very hard while still in the tube, to the point where it was basically impossible to sqeeze it out of the tube.  As such, I suspect that its possible that either it can sometimes go bad in the tube or that there are occassional bad batches.

PF

 

After a while I guess the moisture evaporates but add A few drops of water and shake up and work the plastic tube To blend it back to a smooth thin paste.

Have yet to try PPP, but in response to Lawdog's post my experience with Vallejo is mixed enthusiasm. It's great for small seams, but shrinks so a smooth fill takes multiple applications. For areas where I want to reduce panel lines that can be a plus.

I find it doesn't sand well at all, as stated, it becomes caulking instead of a sandable filler. How does PPP feather out when wet or dry sanded?

mrmike

How does PPP feather out when wet or dry sanded?

 

Thid stuff doesnt shrink at all and feathers out beautifully when dry With sanding sticks.  It wipes off with a damp paper towel or cloth from wing root gaps  really clean with no sanding.

The one and only tube of PP I bought is very difficult to get out of the tube. I usually only need a very small amount- most of the stuff I work on is 1/72 and 1/144. Try dipping a modeling tool in water, then scooping it out of the tube. 

plasticjunkie

It will dissolve if you wash it. If using under NMF like any putty you must seal it with a clear coat like Future so the surrounding finish will match the filled area.

 I’ve been building models for over 50 years and have never washed a model  except resin parts that tend to have mold release oils. I either use compressed air or a soft flay brush to gently remove dust and junk. To remove fingerprints prior to paint I lightly wipe the plastic down with rubbing alcohol.

If it thickens  the tube add a few drops of distill water and shake, it will become soft again.

 

Thanks for the information, Plasticjunkie! Guess I’ll need to avoid washing if I am to use PPP. The clean up with water without sanding is real tempting.

Have any of you folks used PPP for Zimmerit, and if so, would you do it again and/or recommend using the stuff. Seeing how it can be removed with water, it sounds like it may be more forgiving to work with.

stikpusher

Have any of you folks used PPP for Zimmerit, and if so, would you do it again and/or recommend using the stuff. Seeing how it can be removed with water, it sounds like it may be more forgiving to work with.

 

I thought about that but PPP dries very fast specially when spread so thin and may not provide enough time to work the pattern. I have used Squadron Green Putty for Zim and it spreads just perfect and takes longer to harden giving more working time.