about thinning Model Master enamel paint

I'm not sure what synthetic thinner is,but while I like the MM Thinner,I have used regular paint Store mineral spirits with no problems.

I would NOT thin them with synthetic enamels.  Some of that stuff is pretty bad, full of dissolved solids. I stick with turpentine/mineral spirits.  I start with a 1:1 mixture, adjust fromt there.

BTW, there is a forum here for airbrushing and painting that is a good place to find threads like that.

gaddarjoker

Hi there,

I'm aware this must be a very long discusses topic but I need make sure...

For the first time I'm planning to use Model Master enamel paints. I can't find lacquer thinner or the official product here. So I wonder if I can thin them in the same way I do Revell enamels. I use synthetic thinner with Revell enamels. Do you think it would apply to Model Master enamels?

Thanks for your trouble

 

I use Testors brand thinner for enamels.

I mostly use MM enamels for about 99% of my painting. I use regular turpentine from Home Depot like this one

I thin the flat ones about 40-50% and the gloss ones 50-60%. I just find it better performing this way but your air brush will dictate the ratios. I also got a red can of Testors Universal Enamel Thinner and see no difference in performace between either one.

I just learned not too long ago from a Donn Yost DVD that garden grade lacquer thinner (stuff you can get from Lowes) works great with MM enamels. You don't want to go a professional grade with it because it'll be too hot and melt the plastic. Use one part paint to two parts thinner Given the spectacular results I've seen from his automotive finishes I have no reason to question his use of it or his procedure he uses it with.

For more details see for yourself here: http://www.oldmansmodels.com/id76.html

Never thought about using LT to thin enamels but it works for you Mustang and check so it's good to know. I will try that potion next time.

I found that id you use mineral spirits in your air brush you get it coming ount onto the surface your painting on.  With the LT  it evaporates much faster.  been doing it that way for 30 some years.

John

Whenever I begin an airbrush session I always spray for a few seconds against a scrap surface to ensure I am not picking up any residue from cleaning or previous sessions.  Residue from cleaning only lasts in airbrush for a few seconds.  This also assures I have enough paint in the bottle (suction feed) that I am not picking up air bubbles.

Don Stauffer

Whenever I begin an airbrush session I always spray for a few seconds against a scrap surface to ensure I am not picking up any residue from cleaning or previous sessions.  Residue from cleaning only lasts in airbrush for a few seconds.  This also assures I have enough paint in the bottle (suction feed) that I am not picking up air bubbles.

thank you all for your input.

I found out that white spirit is called turpentine here, so I gave it a try with one my revell enamel paints. It worked great! Now I can try it on Testors'.