First kit, noob questions

Hello Joe and a big welcome to ya !

I'll try to answer your questions briefly but you can find more detailed answers on the other forums here.

#1  It largely depends on the type of kit. In aircraft, The cockpit ( pit, office) is usually painted first, then assembled then installed with the rest of the painted interior parts. Then the fuselage halfs are glued together, the glued seams filled, sanded,primed and painted masking off the interior parts that show or might get painted when doing the exterior.

#2 Type of paint is at your discretion as long as you use brands specifically typed for plastic models. 

Enamels= better adhesion, easier to brush on, thinned with cheap hardware store mineral spirits, much longer drying time, kind of smelly.

Acrylics=very short dying time, thinned with alcohol or thinner specific to the brand ( Tamiya paint-Tamiya thinner ) , not much aroma, more difficult to brush on, better used with an airbrush.

Glue;  Tamiya thin, Testor's Model Master liquid, Testor's Clear Parts cement- yes you have to have all 3.

#3  I use a large lighted mag on a stand.  others use the kind you wear.  A must for me since I have old eyes. Purchased at any craft store like Michaels or Hobby lobby maybe even Wall Mart.

#4  NEVER twist the parts off the trees ( sprues )  get a cutter designed for that purpose. I found mine at Wall Mart , cheap but useable after I sharpened it.  Much eaiser to use than cutting off the parts with an Xacto knife.  Nail clippers will do in a pinch.  Xacto knives are your best friend and i have several mounted with various blades for scraping, cutting, trimming, decals and  cleaning glue out from under fingernails lol.

Great rundown by Jay Jay, with my two cents regarding glues.

Different types for different uses. Solvent types, which include most of those made specifically for plastic models, bond by essentially "melting" the plastic parts together. They come in a wide range of thicknesses, from the gooey old-fashioned tube glues, to ultra-thin, low viscosity fluids like Tenax and Weld-On. In general--very general--the thicker the glue, the longer the working time, and the longer it will take to set, and dry. It's useful to have a few different ones, since sometimes you'll want a quick bond, and sometimes you'll need more working time, i.e. if you have to "fiddle" with a part's location or position.

Another common type used in modeling is CA, cyanoacrylate, better known as "super" type glue. This stuff doesn't melt the plastic, its bond and strength are due to the nature of the adhesive itself. It's generally fairly quick-setting (though there are variations). Very useful for many modeling applications, but fairly unforgiving, and should be used sparingly. Be aware that it can also cause frosting or "fogging" on clear parts.

Finally there are "clear parts adhesives" which are usually variations of PVA-type glues or Elmers-type "white glues." These generally dry clear, so they're great for windows and canopy parts. The down side is that they have limited strength and hold, can be easy to accidentally knock off (or, as any helicopter modeler will tell you, "push in," as in fuselage windows).

That's the basics. Everyone (naturally) has different ideas as to which are the must-haves, but like all tools, the wider the choice, the more options you have for those tricky tasks.

That's it Joe, jump right in, we love it!!!
OK to join in with my The guys are giving you great information.

Air2AirJoe

Do you guys paint all the parts that you want to paint before you start assembly?

It really depends on what you want. Like Jay Jay said, we will typically paint the cockpit first on an aircraft. Ships will usually get painted on the tree and touched up last due to the extraordinary amount of masking and I will wait to the last to paint a tank.

Air2AirJoe

What type of paint is best for plastic, acrylic or enamel? Does it matter?

Again, your preference. Jay Jay nailed it again with the break down, although I personally find acrylics more difficult to spray, but that's me. You aren’t at the Air Brush stage yet, so don't worry about that yet.

Air2AirJoe

Does anyone use a hands-free magnifying glass? Possibly with lights?

I use both. I have a magnifier lamp and an "Optivisor" which you can find on Amozon and eBay. I got mine at Harbor Freight and it does in a pinch, but I need to get a "real" one.

Air2AirJoe

 What exactly is the primary use of the exacto?

Everything that needs trimming, gouging, cutting, it's probably the most important tool you have. You find you can't do without it. Get plenty of #11 blades as you will be going through them.

And lastly, a word about glues. Take Greg's advice. I use CA (Cyanoacrylates) exclusively, but I wouldn't recommend them for beginners. You WILL make a mess and possible be asking us how to unstick your fingers, lips, legs or any other part of your body. They were designed as a substitute for medical sutures and do their job very well, They are also good for sealing up cracks in your fingers.

Air2AirJoe

I couldn't wait for my F-22 Raptor kit to arrive in the mail so I went to Michael's this afternoon and picked up a Revell A-10 warthog kit

I told you. You will want everything you can get your hands on.

You will need a photo hosting site such as Photobucket Flicker or Imageshack to post your pictures. I use Imageshack.

Happy modeling.

 

Steve

Hey Joe!  Couldn't wait for the kit to get in!  Now you sound like a modeler! 

Great advice being given.  Can't think of anything different to add.  It really comes down to personal preference.  I use Tamiya Extra Thin mostly, but have Tamiya Thin, Tenax 7R, Testors Liquid, Super glue, Testors Clear Parts Glue (you can use watered down Elmer's glue, I think it is pretty much the same thing), and even have a tube of that ole classic Testors Tube glue!

Paint...I lean towards acrylics, but like they said, it is a pain to brush on.  Super with airbrushes!  Enamals bite into the plastic better, so really depends on what you like.  I have both on the paint shelf.  I hand paint with enamals, AB(air brush) with acrylics mostly. 

A pair of good sprue cutters are a must!  Don't know how I ever lived without them.  Don't just pop the parts of the sprues.  Just asking for trouble there!    Broke parts, warped parts...very bad. 

The knife....like it was said, so many uses!  Getting parts off the sprues when it is too small for the sprue cutters to get in, scraping seams, scribing a quick panel line, etc.  I have probably 3-4 laying around. 

So has the hobby become an information overload yet?    You'll get the hang of it soon enough.  Remember....have fun!

Eagle90

 

If you pre paint parts, solvent glue won't work because the paint is a barrier to the plastic. There you use CA glue. Bear in mind, that bond is only as good as the paint-to-plastic bond. CA glue will make clear plastic fog and it can't really be fixed, so plan around that.

Twisting parts off sprues is bad because often the result is a hole in the edge of the part.

My favorite cutters are ones made by "Xuron" that have orange handles and were mde to cut bronze model railroad track. They are really hard and stay usable if you can keep yourself from using them on the occasional piece of steel wire.

Whatever paints you use, always prime. Acrylics dry from the outside in, so don't be fooled if they feel dry. Enamels from the inside out, so leave them be unless you want a fingerprint.

Three or four days either way, minimum.

 

 

You guys are the best, thank you!  I really do appreciate everyone taking the time!  I noticed that when i paint my pieces first then apply the cement that it dissolves the paint and turns it into a gunky mess so maybe i'll try to anticipate where the cement will be applied and not paint that part in advance.

Also, I hope this 24 hour lag between when i reply and when it actually posts is a probationary type thing for new members. 

Thanks again everyone

That A-10 kit is a classic, and a good one. It's a big airframe though, so it's going to take a fair amount of work, tape and clothes pins to get it all cleanly aligned.

As you go, keep thinking "clean", not fast.

You can prepaint all of the detail stuff like landing gear, cockpit, engine faces etc, but don't paint the airframe until you have it stuck together and have had a chance to scrape. sand the extra rough edges a little. I find that I can get a lot of good results with the fingernail sanding sticks on foam that look like tongue depressors and are available at CVS.

The kit is based on a 1980's version of the aircraft, so you'll be able to paint it with some little spray cans- green, gray and black, and it'll look great.

 

Good luck and keep us posted.

Air2AirJoe

Hi everyone,

First a quick thanks again to everyone who took the time to say hello and offer some general advice in my introduction post!

I couldn't wait for my F-22 Raptor kit to arrive in the mail so I went to Michael's this afternoon and picked up a Revell A-10 warthog kit (1:48, level 2) and some basic supplies including an exacto knife, sand paper, cement, clamps and some paints.  I'm really excited for my daughters (2 and 10) to fall asleep so I can really begin in earnest on this!  I'm a very restless person and it should be interesting to see if I have the patience and discipline to focus and do this right. I think it'll be good for me actually :)

So I do have a few questions which I'm sure will sound silly in hindsight but here goes:

1:  Do you guys paint all the parts that you want to paint before you start assembly?  My first thought was to put the thing together then paint it but I'm thinking that might not be the best approach.

Hi, Joe,

I don't paint too many pieces on the sprues, unless I know I can't get to them once they're installed.  As the other guys have mentioned, generally, that going to be the bits in an airplane's cockpit, or inside a vehicle (armored or not).  Also, I tend to detach parts and clean them up, removing mold seam lines, for example, and then I stick them on sticks--toothpicks or other sticks, or straight pins, sometimes drilling a hole in the piece to accept the point and securing it with white glue (I use Elmer's).  The stick is a handle to hold while painting.

I may prime the parts on the sprues, though.

But even before I get to putting paint to the parts, I wash them to remove any mold release compounds or other greases or oils, and dirt.  These things can interfere with paint adhering to the surface.  You'll read here in the forums that others do this, too.  Washing is done with warm water and a de-greaser, whether it's dishwashing liquid ("You're soaking in it!" Anyone?  Anyone?) or you can do as I do, I use Super Clean, an automotive de-greaser.  In either case, it just takes a couple of drops.  I use an old glass baking dish, big enough to lay the sprues down.  I put in the water--warm from the tap is fine--a couple drops of Super Clean, stir a little to get it distributed, and then I set the sprues in.  I use an old, worn-out toothbrush to scrub the sprues gently, rinsing them under the tap, and then I lay them on paper toweling to dry.  Once dry, I'll prime all the sprues.  The primer gives the later finish coats of paint a better surface to adhere to than the bare plastic.  However, you'll find some guys who don't prime, or don't clean the parts, or even both.  You'll need to try for yourself and see what works.

Air2AirJoe

2: What type of paint is best for plastic, acrylic or enamel? Does it matter?  Also is there a type of cement that's best?

For me, I don't use one or the other exclusively.  The decision for me depends on the subject (is it a piece of ordnance? a car? a ship? a figure?), the color (I don't mix my own shades very often, but use off-the-shelf colors as much as possible) and the application (hand-brushing? rattle can? airbrush?)

I don't know that I agree that enamel adheres better than acrylics, necessarily, but I'd put it rather as, enamels will cure to a harder and more durable surface.  There are weathering techniques, for example, that involve using an enamel or lacquer for an undercoat, with acrylics for the top coats, and then you scuff the acrylics with a green scrub pad, to reveal the enamel undercoat.  But in either case, if I'm putting down an enamel or an acrylic, I'm going to clean and prime the surface.

I will say that I use a range of paints, from paints made specifically for the scale modeling market, whether enamel, lacquer or acrylic, to artist's oils, to craft store acrylics, which are cheap but can be used for a lot of things where you might not want to use a three-dollar-a-quarter-ounce Vallejo acrylic.

As for glue, I use glues appropriate to the material. 

For styrene-to-styrene, I use tube glues (Testor's) and liquid glues (Plastruct's Bondene and Weldene).  They join the parts by melting the plastic where the parts meet, in effect, creating a weld.  CA glue does not do that.  Also, with styrene, you can apply the glue, and then apply pressure along seams and squeeze out some of the softened/melted plastic.  When it cures, you can scrape away the resulting bead, which helps hide the seam.

For joins between unlike materials, like resin or metal to styrene, or for assembling metal kits or resin kits, then I'll use CA glue or 2-part epoxy.  I'll also use white glue in some cases, like attaching photo-etch, or attaching clear parts.  I will also pin some joints where appropriate, especially with figures.  Adding pins adds strength to a join, compared to a simple butt join (ie, two pieces butted up against one another), especially if there's a possibility that the piece could get bumped and there might be some shear to the join.  I drill a hole with a fine drill bit chucked into a pin vise, and use a piece of stiff wire for the pin, and then flow the glue into the join.

Air2AirJoe

3: Does anyone use a hands-free magnifying glass? Possibly with lights? I'm just getting started and I can already see the potential merits of that. Where would I get one, hardware store? I can picture in my head what I want but can't remember seeing anything like that for sale.

I use a knock-off Optivisor from Red China, cost me $10 at a modeling show.  I also have one of those little hands-free stands, cast iron base and a magnifying glass, but I find that I need the magnifiers in front of my eyes, like glasses, rather than to hold the work behind a magnifier and to look through it.  But I do recommend an Optivisor.  If I had to get another one, I'd get one with a light, too.  I have a lot of light on my bench, but I find I could still use a light source aimed along my line of site.  You can never have too much light, I think.  Look on eBay, but also at the craft stores.  I have even seen magnifiers sold at woodworking shows.  That's also a good idea--if there are any modeling shows held near you, I recommend getting to them, for tools, kits and for mingling with other modelers live.  The Internet is great, but it doesn't replace face-to-face contact.  Look for modeling clubs, too, for the same reason, whether it's your nearest IPMS chapter, or just a bunch of guys who get together somewhere.  It's a lot of fun.

Air2AirJoe

4th and last:  What exactly is the primary use of the exacto?  Ive found myself pulling the parts off the plastic piece that they come attached to by hand and then using the sand paper to smooth off the residual part that breaks off with it.  Do you slice the really little delicate ones free with a knife?

Thanks very much in advance and any general tips that I might not even be aware of yet will of course be greatly appreciated!

Best,

Joe
 

As the others have mentioned, a hobby knife has a ton of uses.  X-Acto is one brand, and there are different sizes for blades.  A Nr 11 blade is small but has a lot of uses--cleaning parts, cutting plastic or paper (decal sheets), those are probably the most common.  A Nr 2 blade is a little larger and broader, and I use it for less precise cutting--cutting plastic sheeting, for example.  And I recommend getting a razor saw, too.  As the others mentioned, you don't want to twist parts off the sprues, but you should get yourself a sprue cutter.  There are purpose-made brands, like Xuron, but if you go to your local dollar store, you may find a nail clipper for a reasonable price, that is shaped the same way and works the same way as a sprue cutter does.  But again, look at shows.  I got a Xuron sprue cutter for a couple of bucks from a discount tool vendor at a woodworking show.  I use the clipper to remove most pieces, and only if a part is too delicate or if I can't get the jaws of the clipper in, will I reach for the Nr 11 knife to cut it.  But that's just what I've found works for me.

I hope that all helps, and I look forward to seeing your work!

Hey Baron...would that be the old Palmolive commercial!? 

I like your explanation of the paints too!  Much better said!  Makes more since stated that way.

Eagle90

 

Sounds like you have been getting some great suggestions. And don't worry about asking, that's what we are here for. One thing I would suggest, and I see your already doing a bit of it, is to look through the current build logs. Its really hard to give a complete list and of course everyone has there own ideas. But as you look through the threads you may well see things, as you did with the tooth pics, and can ask about them.

Madge!

She's soaking in it!

1:  Do you guys paint all the parts that you want to paint before you start assembly? 

-- Sometimes. When building, I will look at the directions and formulate a plan, before any glue or paint is involved. If the part needs hand brushed detailing, like cockpit parts, then sometimes it's best to paint things before and touch up any blemishes you may get when gluing. If I painted the part before glueing, I'll clean off the paint in the area to be glued with the edge of an xacto knife so it adheres better.

 

2: What type of paint is best for plastic, acrylic or enamel? That's a matter of personal opinion. They both have their merits. Acrylics can be less messy and easier to cleanup. Enamels have a better sheen, but can be pretty fussy. I started out using acrylics. (This was assuming using an Airbrush. Enamels generally hand paint better, however tamiya acrylics are not bad for hand brushing)

Also is there a type of cement that's best? For me, it's tamiya extra thin. Liquid cement uses capillary effect to get into areas very nicely. Tube type cement is very unforgiving and I don't use it much at all.

 

3: Does anyone use a hands-free magnifying glass? Possibly with lights? I'm just getting started and I can already see the potential merits of that. Where would I get one, hardware store? I can picture in my head what I want but can't remember seeing anything like that for sale.

I use an optivisor and have good lighting on my desk ( an OTT light ) You can get led lights that mount on the optivisor. Or, you can use a hands free magnifying lamp, with lights. Hardware store for that. Micromark, or a hobby store would have an optivisor. Don't forget a respirator if you are airbrushing, or perhaps working with resin parts (which are aftermarket parts usually, and probably not something you'd be messing with right away)

4th and last:  What exactly is the primary use of the exacto?  Ive found myself pulling the parts off the plastic piece that they come attached to by hand and then using the sand paper to smooth off the residual part that breaks off with it.  Do you slice the really little delicate ones free with a knife?--The knife is for fine shaving of left over tabs from cutting, amongst other things. Get a good sprue cutter, preferably one from Tamiya, for removing parts from sprue. They look like small wire cutters.

This is just my opinion and may be a repeat of what guys said above. Enjoy!

Bish

Sounds like you have been getting some great suggestions. And don't worry about asking, that's what we are here for. One thing I would suggest, and I see your already doing a bit of it, is to look through the current build logs. Its really hard to give a complete list and of course everyone has there own ideas. But as you look through the threads you may well see things, as you did with the tooth pics, and can ask about them.

I echo Bish's sentiments here.  Work In Progress threads are your friend.  Go back and read some of how other people do their work.  Try to find one related to your subject.  Preparation is the key.  What was the old saw -- "90 percent preparation, 10 percent perspiration".  Or is that backwards?

 

Yeah Joe, I'm not sure of the lag time either. I get your email notification but it dosnt' show up on the forum. You may need to go the the error reporting section and maybe Aaron or Tim can help you out.

I have noticed before that new members will post there intro post and won't get replies for a couple of days, especially at weekends. But I thought that once that was posted, you were all cleared. It may just be because you have been posting over the weekend that's its taking a bit more time. Hopefully today you should be all set.

Hey noob, fellow noob here.

As far as getting cleared to post, it took me about three or four posts before I got "immediate access."

The suggestion to look at build logs is a great one. You'll learn a lot by seeing what other experienced modelers have done. For specific things, Google can be your friend. I got the book "Essential Skills for Scale Modelers" which is by one of the FSM editors and found it to be a great introduction to some basics all in one easy-to-access place.

If you plan on continuing with the hobby, you may want to bite the bullet and look into an airbrush. Get a Badger or an Iwata and do go cheap like I did and then use it once, fall in love with airbrushing, and spring for the better airbrush. I have a basic Iwata Eclise BCS and I can't imagine making a model without an airbrush now.

And I know that, "Wanna run to Michael's" feeling. It's terrible when there's one a quarter mile from work and I know I can print a million of those 50% off coupons...

Joe, Welcome to the Forum and to modeling. As you see, there are a lot of people here who know a lot and are very willing to answer questions. The only thing I would add is that you can also use wire cutters if you don't have a sprue cutter. The cut won't be quite as clean or close to the piece and will require a little more sanding, but that is much better than breaking the pieces off by hand. Eventually, you'll regret that! And most of all, enjoy. Barrett

Jay Jay

#2 Type of paint is at your discretion as long as you use brands specifically typed for plastic models. 

Enamels= better adhesion, easier to brush on, thinned with cheap hardware store mineral spirits, much longer drying time, kind of smelly.

Acrylics=very short dying time, thinned with alcohol or thinner specific to the brand ( Tamiya paint-Tamiya thinner ) , not much aroma, more difficult to brush on, better used with an airbrush.

 

I disagree with the comment that Tamiya is diffcult to brush on. I've used Tamiya acrylics many times with a brush and never had issues with them.

One of the important skills in modeling is development of a work plan.  Each kit is different.  Look through every step of the instructions, and look at all the paint colors involved.  Then, before cutting the first part off the sprue- before gluing the first two pieces together, work up a plan on when you will paint what, where you assemble subassemblies, where you will need to mask- then begin your work. 

Your next model may require a new path of work.  One general rule has to do with seams.  If the join between two parts of the kit follows a seam or line representing a removable part or panel, you can paint it later.  However, if the join seam is not supposed to be visible (i.e., the seams on top and bottom resulting from gluing fuselage halves together), then the parts must be glued together and the seam made invisible by filling, leveling, etc. before painting.  Were tail empanage pieces easily removable and seam visible? You can paint them seperately.  But if the parts were carefully faired and no evident line was there, parts should again be glued in place and faired as needed (filler? sanding?) before painting.

I frequently deviate from instructions by not installing landing gear until after airframe painting finished, because I do not want to mask lg itself (it can be fragile).  This does mean I have to paint and mask off gear openings before painting rest of airframe.

 

Eagle90

Hey Baron...would that be the old Palmolive commercial!? 

I like your explanation of the paints too!  Much better said!  Makes more since stated that way.

Eagle90

You got it, Eagle! Good catch on the reference!

And thanks for your kind reply about my post.  I try to be clear as I can.

BlackSheepTwoOneFour

   

Jay Jay

    #2 Type of paint is at your discretion as long as you use brands specifically typed for plastic models.

    Enamels= better adhesion, easier to brush on, thinned with cheap hardware store mineral spirits, much longer drying time, kind of smelly.

    Acrylics=very short dying time, thinned with alcohol or thinner specific to the brand ( Tamiya paint-Tamiya thinner ) , not much aroma, more difficult to brush on, better used with an airbrush.

 

I disagree with the comment that Tamiya is diffcult to brush on. I've used Tamiya acrylics many times with a brush and never had issues with them.

I have to offer my observation--many modelers do consider Tamiya's acrylics to be difficult to apply by hand, and I used to be one of them.

Along with building models, I cast and paint metal figures, and I paint them by hand.  I found that with Tamiya's acrylics, particularly with their flat black, but also with other colors, that when I would go to apply a second coat, the previous coat would lift off.  It lead me to try other makers' acrylics, too, but I really needed Tamiya's colors.

Over time, in the course of various online discussions on painting and paints, someone mentioned that Tamiya's acrylics are formulated for airbrushing.  And that's when the light went on.  I realized that they're intended to be thinned for application.

The next lesson to learn was to use Tamiya's proprietary acrylic thinner.  Being Dutchy, I tried water first, which didn't really work, and then isopropyl.  It thinned the paint, but it still clumped and lifted off when the next coat went on.  I broke down and decided to spend the money to get Tamiya's thinner, and ever since, I've had excellent results applying their acrylics by hand.  I found that when thinned, the paint goes down as well and as thinly as if it had been airbrushed.  I've painted a couple Maschinen Krieger armored fighting suit kits that way.

I use two methods to use the thinner, when hand-brushing.  I have a ceramic palette, and I put a couple eyedroppersful of the thinner in a well on the palette.  Then I will either dip my brush into the well to soak it with thinner, and then use the inside of the jar lid to pick up color.  Or, I will dip in the jar and then in the thinner.

I have also tried mixing paint and thinner in the palette, but I found it easier for me to go from palette to jar or jar to palette, rather than to mix a batch of color on the palette.

So, when someone says that Tamiya acrylics are difficult to brush on, I figure he's talking about applying the paint unthinned.  For anyone who is using them that way, I recommend trying to thin them and see what kind of results you get.

Also, you can use lacquer thinner to thin them.  I know of guys who use lacquer thinner to thin the paints for airbrushing, and I've tried it for hand-painting, and it works pretty well, too.  My preference is for the Tamiya thinner, though.

I hope that helps anyone using Tamiya's acrylics!

Best regards,
Brad

You guys are too awesome for words. I can't thank everyone enough for taking the time to share all your tips and advice.  I'm sorry for not replying to everyone but i have read each and every reply on here and i really appreciate them!  It's a lot to process and i'm working things out little by little every night when i work on my A-10.  It's not going quite as smooth as i'd hoped, but that's to be expected the first time around i suppose. I'm having to improvise a lot since i don't have all the tools yet, but i'm having a lot of fun AND i'm a painter now too which is something i hadn't realized when i embarked on this.  All in all its very relaxing and therapuetic and i'm loving it so far. Pretty sure i'm hooked and will be doing this for a long time!  I'll post pics of my progress soon.  Thanks again everyone!

Joe

Air2AirJoe

...It's not going quite as smooth as i'd hoped, but that's to be expected the first time around i suppose. I'm having to improvise a lot since i don't have all the tools yet, but i'm having a lot of fun AND i'm a painter now too which is something i hadn't realized when i embarked on this.  All in all its very relaxing and therapuetic and i'm loving it so far. Pretty sure i'm hooked and will be doing this for a long time!..

Joe

 

Yes, after YEARS of thinning Tamiya acrylics with everything under the sun, I finally tried their thinner, and it's like they were made for each other.

GMorrison

Yes, after YEARS of thinning Tamiya acrylics with everything under the sun, I finally tried their thinner

Yeah, I broke down a just ordered their thinner as well.

Good to know, thanks guys. 

Air2AirJoe

Pretty sure i'm hooked and will be doing this for a long time! 

Joe

 

 

Thats it, your life is now over and completly devoted to plastic.

 

Welcome to the club

Bish

 

 

Air2AirJoe

Pretty sure i'm hooked and will be doing this for a long time! 

Joe

 

 

 

 

 

Thats it, your life is now over and completly devoted to plastic.

 

Welcome to the club

 

Yeah buddy, but you can tell your wife it keeps you out of the bars...