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Paint/Primer won't adhere properly. Please help.

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  • Member since
    December 2013
Posted by chango on Tuesday, January 12, 2016 11:29 AM

I've had that problem in the past with Trumpeter kits... even with hefty cleaning I would get acrylic primer/paint lifting.

These days I usually lightly sand larger surfaces and/or parts that will require masking with fine grit, then hit them with rattlecan Tamiya surface primer (I usually airbrush prime small detail parts), lightly sand again and airbrush the main color(s) with acrylic.

I don't usually bother to wash anything unless it's obviously slick with relase agent; most mainstream kits (trumpter especially) seem to be very well cleaned OOTB.

 

  • Member since
    January 2016
  • From: Portland, Oregon
Posted by ah527venom on Monday, January 11, 2016 2:10 PM

So it must have been that I didn't let the primer fully cure, because I tried it again and let the primer sit 24hrs and the paint stuck after that. This seems odd to me though, because I let it dry about 3hrs the first time which has worked in the past for me on other models. Maybe it's that my appartment is colder this time of year and it took longer for the primer to cure.  Either way, thank you to everyone who gave me feedback on this issue. 

  • Member since
    April 2006
  • From: Denver, Colorado
Posted by waynec on Sunday, January 10, 2016 9:26 PM

Maybe i'm really lucky. i don't wash anything unless a kit review specifically mentions it. i use ACE Hardware NOW gray primer on most everything. i probably let it sit a day but i am sure i have primed in the morning and painted late afternoon. i use Vallejo, Vallejo Air, MMA, and Tamiya with no problems. i let it sit a day or somethimes put it under a 100w light bulb to dry. i have masked with painters' tape, Tamiya tape, and silly putty with no lift off. i have had trouble with whites but that appears to be common. i also don't clear coat before weathering with acrylics, pastels, powders and/or oils with no lift off.

Никто не Забыт    (No one is Forgotten)
Ничто не Забыто  (Nothing is Forgotten)

 

  • Member since
    June 2004
  • From: East Stroudsburg, PA
Posted by TigerII on Saturday, January 9, 2016 12:03 PM

Dash8

What I find very intertesting is how well MMA paints

stick to chrome airbrushes ??

 

Same here.

Achtung Panzer! Colonel General Heinz Guderian
  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Saturday, January 9, 2016 9:33 AM

There is a thread going on in the painting and airbrushing forum currently on primers. It is not primarily on adhesion, but it may be of interest to you anyway.  That forum is an excellent one, worth monitoring.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

fox
  • Member since
    January 2007
  • From: Narvon, Pa.
Posted by fox on Friday, January 8, 2016 10:56 PM

I've found the same as others have.  The paint has to not only dry to the touch but cure properly.  Same thing with some glues.  That's why I work on more than one build at a time.

Jim  Captain

 Main WIP: 

   On the Bench: Artesania Latina  (aka) Artists in the Latrine 1/75 Bluenose II

I keep hitting "escape", but I'm still here.

  • Member since
    January 2013
Posted by BlackSheepTwoOneFour on Friday, January 8, 2016 10:48 PM

Any paint will stick to chrome airbrushes when dried out/not thoroughly cleaned properly.

  • Member since
    July 2014
Posted by modelcrazy on Friday, January 8, 2016 10:47 PM

Dash8
What I find very intertesting is how well MMA paints stick to chrome airbrushes ??

Ditto

Steve

Building a kit from your stash is like cutting a head off a Hydra, two more take it's place.

 

 

http://www.spamodeler.com/forum/

  • Member since
    December 2015
Posted by Dash8 on Friday, January 8, 2016 9:33 PM

What I find very intertesting is how well MMA paints

stick to chrome airbrushes ??

On the bench: Revell Euro Fighter 1/32

Ontario, CANADA

 

  • Member since
    July 2014
Posted by modelcrazy on Friday, January 8, 2016 8:50 PM

What was the temprature when you painted? I have had similar problems with both not letting everything cure enough and spraying in lower than desired tempratures.\

Steve

Steve

Building a kit from your stash is like cutting a head off a Hydra, two more take it's place.

 

 

http://www.spamodeler.com/forum/

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Friday, January 8, 2016 8:34 PM

My guestimate also is that the primer did not cure. It sounds like you applied the paint immediately or shortly after applying the primer. With dissimilar layers, enamel primer and acrylic paint, that is a bad idea.  I always let primer coats dry and cure at least overnite before beginning base colors. And yes, MM Acrylics have terrible adhesion properties as well as poor scratch resistance in my experience.

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    November 2008
  • From: Central Florida
Posted by plasticjunkie on Friday, January 8, 2016 8:24 PM

I've had MM acrylic lift when removing tape masking so I avoid using it and any acrylic primer cause they don't bite into the plastic as good as solvent ones. The exception is with Tamiya acrylics. They seem to work out very well.

I'm surprised the Krylon came off that easy caus it's solvent type and should garb on good. A couple of questions:

How long did you let the primer cure?

Was it a new can?

Tamiya primers, either the white or grey are excellent solvent types.  

 GIFMaker.org_jy_Ayj_O

 

 

Too many models to build, not enough time in a lifetime!!

  • Member since
    January 2016
  • From: Portland, Oregon
Posted by ah527venom on Friday, January 8, 2016 12:27 PM
Thank you everyone for your quick responses. I think it must be that the primer didn’t fully cure. I let it sit about 3 hours after spraying, which in the past worked for other models I have done. I just scrubbed the parts mostly clean with a soft bristled toothbrush and rubbing alcohol and Windex. I am going to respray the primer I have once the parts dry. If the can of Krylon I have doesn’t work this time I will give Rustoleum a try.
  • Member since
    September 2006
  • From: Bethlehem PA
Posted by the Baron on Friday, January 8, 2016 12:10 PM

I switched some time ago from automotive primers and Rustoleum, to Tamiya's acrylic primer.  It's more expensive by volume, but it seems to cover better and the small amount goes farther, for me.  But regardless of the paint, I agree with the others, in that you need to give the primer time to cure.  I will let parts rest for four hours at least, and I usually let them sit overnight.

Also, do you clean the kit parts first, to remove mold release agents?  That will help any primer adhere.  I wash my kits in warm water with a couple drops of an automotive de-greaser (Super Clean) in it.  I know a figure modeler who even uses a mild abrasive soap on resin pieces, to roughen up the surface ever so slightly and increase the "tooth" of the primer.

Hope that helps!

Brad

The bigger the government, the smaller the citizen.

 

 

  • Member since
    January 2013
Posted by BlackSheepTwoOneFour on Friday, January 8, 2016 12:02 PM

I agree with the primer not being cured fully. Not a huge fan of Krylon but my go-to primer is Rustoleum brand. Krylon is garbage in my opinion.

  • Member since
    October 2011
  • From: Lake Villa, Illinois
Posted by Chuck Davis on Friday, January 8, 2016 11:51 AM

Hey Venom - a couple of comments.  Maybe the primer hadn't fully cured before you hit it with the acrylic.  And a general comment - I've had issues with MM acrylic being "inconsistant" bottle to bottle.  I will admit I don't care for it much, so the "problem" may be more on me than the paint.  But a potentially easy try is to get a fresh bottle of MM.

Sorry - I know that's not much help...good luck!

Chuck Davis

  • Member since
    January 2016
  • From: Portland, Oregon
Paint/Primer won't adhere properly. Please help.
Posted by ah527venom on Thursday, January 7, 2016 4:00 PM
I am currently building an Eduard Bf 109E-7 (kit 84167). I washed all of the sprues and let them dry for 24 hours. I then used my normal primer which is Krylon ColorMaster Gray Ultra Flat Primer. I let the primer dry and then airbrushed Testors Model Masters Acrylic with my Aztek A480 airbrush. An hour or two later I picked up one of the parts and accidently scratched off some of the paint and primer with my fingernail. I let the parts sit overnight to see if it was just a problem with the paint not being fully cured, but I was able to gently scratch off the paint again with my fingernail. I have been building models for a few years now and have never run in to this problem before. I have used this primer and model master acrylics on Revell, Tamiya, Zvezda, and Hasegawa models and have never had this issue. I did notice that the model pieces seemed smoother and shinier than other models that I have built.
I believe that the issue is in the primer because the primer comes off with the paint. I have never had this issue, and I’m confused why this is happening.

 

Does anyone have any advice to make the primer and paint adhere properly to this kit?
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