moving propellers

So much thanks to everyone who commented and helped us complete the diorama. The cadets and myself are now happy with the results thanks to your advice. The model will be entering the Scottish regional competition at the weekend and we are hopeful, however whatever the result we have learnt so much. 

https://www.flickr.com/photos/26739478@N04/28881272424/in/datetaken/

many thanks 

Mick , 

[quote user="mwalton66"]

  well after hours of ups and downs i managed to complete the fitting of the two motors into the Vals . Many thanks to everyone who offered advice , it is so refreshing to know there are people who will help :) 

 We just have the dack drop to finish now but here is a short video of the work carried out by our Air Cadets 

many thanks 

Mick Walton

 [/quote]

This story isn't about judging.  The Air Cadet instructor laid down a challenge.  Mick and his mates rose and met the challenge.  Good work

Don't be afraid to think out of the box.  Keep your head on a swivel and look for alternative ideas and approaches to the problem at hand

Hey !

I must apologize for someone elses judging ! . I hold myself to higher standards than most , I like to believe . Having been a proffesional model builder for many years now .

      This said I have seen the photos and believe me even if all props were standing still , I would NOT have dinged you for it ! . Job , Well Done . Tanker - Builder

Just as an aside, there's a video clip out there of a Hind helicopter in flight with what appears to be a stationary rotor. This occurred because the shutter of the video camera was exactly synchronised with the rotation of the rotor, making it appear as if it's not turning.

EdGrune

Pager motor

the thing in cell phones or pagers which produce the vibration.   Pull off the excentric weight.  Mount the motor in the engine space and run the wires down to the base & a battery pack (AA size).  Mount the prop on the motor shaft.   

You should be able to find a pager motor in an electronic surplus supply shop (or try eBay)  

It sounds like you may be JROTC.  This may be a good engineering intro which could serve you well in your future

 

 

 

 

We just have the dack drop to finish now but here is a short video of the work carried out by our Air Cadets 

https://www.flickr.com/photos/26739478@N04/29240554252/in/dateposted-public/

many thanks 

Mick Walton 

mwalton66

 

 

EdGrune

Pager motor

the thing in cell phones or pagers which produce the vibration.   Pull off the excentric weight.  Mount the motor in the engine space and run the wires down to the base & a battery pack (AA size).  Mount the prop on the motor shaft.   

You should be able to find a pager motor in an electronic surplus supply shop (or try eBay)  

It sounds like you may be JROTC.  This may be a good engineering intro which could serve you well in your future

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I have managed to track down a couple of motors from Nokia 3310 but how do you attach the prop to the .8mm shaft ? Many thanks , Mick

 

 

On my 1/72 Tamiya P 51,  the prop & spinner was a press fit

if your prop blades have a hole, try press fit or cement with hot glue (or carefully glue with CA). 

if the prop has a shaft, cut it flush with  the central disc.  Carefully locate the center of the disc and drill mounting hole. Start with a small sized hole and bore it out to proper size to press fit on the shaft

EdGrune

Pager motor

the thing in cell phones or pagers which produce the vibration.   Pull off the excentric weight.  Mount the motor in the engine space and run the wires down to the base & a battery pack (AA size).  Mount the prop on the motor shaft.   

You should be able to find a pager motor in an electronic surplus supply shop (or try eBay)  

It sounds like you may be JROTC.  This may be a good engineering intro which could serve you well in your future

 

 

 

 

fermis

 

 

Cdn Colin

On second reading, I'd suggest giving the judge a slap.

Seriously, if that's the only improvement they could recommend, it must have been an outstanding diorama!  Where are the pictures?

 

 

 

 

I kinda have to agree here!

Personaly, I have yet to find a GREAT solution to the issue. "Prop Blur" is a good effect, at a distance. I've never really cared much for the clear disc...even the best ones I've seen just didn't quite do it for me. Actually motorizing the prop is the best effect, but is not always very practical in the long run. I just leave the blades out and fill the holes where they would go.

Then there's the "snap-shot in time" argument...

This airplane is very clearly flying, no doubt....check them props!

 

Anyway...if ya go with the clear disc...I'd recommend getting a circle cutter. Micheals (probably any craft store) has them for about 5 bucks. "Olfa" is the brand I have. It is quite handy to have at the bench, and gets regular use.

 

 

The blur is a function of shutter speed in a camera.  In automatic exposure your camera sets shutter speed and lens aperture according to a program in their computer chip.  As digital cameras get faster and faster (meaning more light sensitive) they are indeed stopping propellers more than older ones. If you have a camera with manual options you have the choice of stopping or blurring the prop.  The human eye has an equivalent shutter speed of about 1/30 to 1/60 second, which definitely will blur most props.

Don't know what rules the judges were using (IPMS, etc...) but based in most criteria I've seen they should not have deducted points from your dio because of this issue...sounds like you got robbed because of poor judging...

Good luck with it, and let us know how it works out.

putting in motors now is not really an option but i think i will try the disk approuch. The model has been built by our Air cadet squadron ad many have never built a plastic model before let alone water details. 

Thank you everyone for the help and we truly appriciate it . 

Mick Walton 

North East Scotland 

we are going to remove the right hand side panel and draw in backdrops on the left and back panel 

model is 750 x 750 and the scale is 1/72 

Many thanks Colin but i am not sure how to add a photo , sorry 

I deal with that problem by having my aircraft parked, engines off.  No prop blur, no moving prop...no flying airplane.  Hey, they do stand still sometimes...

Gary

Cdn Colin

On second reading, I'd suggest giving the judge a slap.

Seriously, if that's the only improvement they could recommend, it must have been an outstanding diorama!  Where are the pictures?

 

I kinda have to agree here!

Personaly, I have yet to find a GREAT solution to the issue. "Prop Blur" is a good effect, at a distance. I've never really cared much for the clear disc...even the best ones I've seen just didn't quite do it for me. Actually motorizing the prop is the best effect, but is not always very practical in the long run. I just leave the blades out and fill the holes where they would go.

Then there's the "snap-shot in time" argument...

This airplane is very clearly flying, no doubt....check them props!

Anyway...if ya go with the clear disc...I'd recommend getting a circle cutter. Micheals (probably any craft store) has them for about 5 bucks. "Olfa" is the brand I have. It is quite handy to have at the bench, and gets regular use.

Cdn Colin

On second reading, I'd suggest giving the judge a slap.

Or you can try this.

On second reading, I'd suggest giving the judge a slap.

Seriously, if that's the only improvement they could recommend, it must have been an outstanding diorama!  Where are the pictures?

Heres another idea ;

 You know what a quad copter or octocopter is , right ? Find the true toy ones in the closest Discount store and use the motors from that .You could then do a B-17 if you wanted or a B-24 ? Good luck on the project .  T.B.

If you have a good photo editing program, you can make realistic prop blur image. It can then be printed on clear decal paper to make a decal that can be placed on a clear plastic disk of proper diameter.

Scan the kit propeller.  Make any color corrections.  Then invoke a rotation blur function, with center of rotation at center of prop image, and amount of blur to suit.  Print out image on decal paper, apply decal to clear disk.  Mount disk in place of propeller, adding kit hub.

Pager motor

the thing in cell phones or pagers which produce the vibration.   Pull off the excentric weight.  Mount the motor in the engine space and run the wires down to the base & a battery pack (AA size).  Mount the prop on the motor shaft.   

You should be able to find a pager motor in an electronic surplus supply shop (or try eBay)  

It sounds like you may be JROTC.  This may be a good engineering intro which could serve you well in your future

many thanks for your help and advice :) 

best regards

Mick 

North East Scotland

Here is the website for the prop blur guys.

http://www.propblur.com/pvr-group.html

making your own out of clear acetate would sure be cheaper though.

Outside of just cutting of the prop blades, which wouldn't work out well, there are a couple things that can be done.  Someone makes or made a metal  product that was designed to look like a spinning prop giving the illusion of the fromt of hte blade with lines following it.  I don't remember who this was and have never actually seen the product in person.

Another approach would be to cut a clear disc the diameter of the prop you want to have spinning.  It doesn't have to be thick, the blades in that scale aren't very thick.  I would mean you would have to cut off the kit's blades and maybe even cut the blade attachments in have and then glue the three parts together evenly.

At this point you have the option of just letting the disc stay clear or trying to simulate the spinning effect.  If you have a box top with a picture of the aircraft in flight, hopefully showing the front, that will be your guide to paint the prop effect.  You will need to experiment on paper with a pencil, and or scrap plastic sheets with paint until you are ready.  Thinking about it, an acrylic or oil paint in a tube might work better than a bottle because it's thicker and takes longer to dry.  This will give you time to set your prop blur tha way you want it.  If you decide to go this way, I have some clear plastic sheets you can have to make your discs.  You will also need to learn how to use a compas with a swivel blade to cut your circles.  If not a swivel blade, an X-Acto blade with a sharp point, somewhere inthe area of a #11 should do.  I don't know where you live but some craft or office supply stores my have mechanical drawing equipment.