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Decal sliding

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  • Member since
    October 2019
Decal sliding
Posted by starwarsdude on Saturday, November 16, 2019 10:29 AM

I apply microset over a dry gloss coat. For small decals I've been able to reposition via sliding to my hearts content.

Last night I did larger decals, the red 5 wing markings for my 1/72 x-wing and they didn't want to move after initial contact.

I had to lift the whole decal with tweezers to reposition.

Is this normal? Do I need water on the model surface? More MicroSet?

  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: East Bethel, MN
Posted by midnightprowler on Saturday, November 16, 2019 11:22 AM

With a larger decal it covers more surface area so it would be harder to move. I would apply some water to the surface, get the decal in position then blot away excess water, then apply the setting solution of choice.

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Co. A, 682 Engineers, Ltchfield, MN, 1980-1986

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  • Member since
    April 2009
  • From: Longmont, Colorado
Posted by Cadet Chuck on Saturday, November 16, 2019 11:54 AM

Use only water to apply decals to the model's surface.  Use MicroSol and/or Microset only after the decal has been positioned with water, and blotted. Then you can apply the setting solutions, and do not try to move the decal after you have done that.  The decal will wrinkle up and look horrible, but do not touch the decal until completely dry.  The wrinkles will magically disappear when it is dry.

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  • Member since
    October 2019
Posted by starwarsdude on Saturday, November 16, 2019 12:57 PM

Thanks, will try water. The MicroSet instructions say to apply it to the surface first and then on the decal after it is placed. Didn't work for me so I will use water before placement.

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Saturday, November 16, 2019 1:24 PM

Yeah, lather, rinse, repeat....

Sliding it into a pool of water is fine. A pool of micro set can be messy. And I try not to use micro sol.

Very large decals should be cut into pieces.

 

 Modeling is an excuse to buy books.

 

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Sunday, November 17, 2019 6:31 AM

I had one set of decals like that recently.  Do not remember the brand of the kit.  But after the first two decals I learned to apply them as accurately as possible. I found if I did need to move it a bit, I could use my fine point tweezers to lift a corner and apply some water at that point with a Q-tip, which did float the decal enough to move it the needed amount.

In general I find every mfgr's decals to have slight differences.  Variations depend on how long it takes in the water to release the decal from the backing, how easily it moves once on surface, how it responds to the setting solution (some decals weaken and start to stretch if you pull them along), and how well the settle along compound curves.  I always  start with some of the least noticable and important decals.  I always scan each decal sheet in case I mess one or more and need to make inkjet copies.

 

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    October 2019
Posted by starwarsdude on Sunday, November 17, 2019 9:51 AM
For this set, the small ones were still easy to move. Decaling is easy if you can reposition but having to lift and move the large decals makes life tough. I tried water coating the surface instead of MicroSet and it didn't help.
  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Western North Carolina
Posted by Tojo72 on Sunday, November 17, 2019 10:17 AM

Discovered the same thing awhile ago,water only,then the setting solution of choice after it is placed.

  • Member since
    March 2015
  • From: Close to Chicago
Posted by JohnnyK on Sunday, November 17, 2019 10:23 AM

I used to have a problem with making large detals slide on Bare Metal Foil, for example the wing decals on a B-29. I solved the problem by putting one drop of dishwashing detergent into a bowl of warm water. I flood the area where I am going to place the detail with the warm water and the decal would easily slide. I would guess that this should also work on a painted surface.

Your comments and questions are always welcome.

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Sunday, November 17, 2019 11:54 AM

Don Stauffer

In general I find every mfgr's decals to have slight differences.  Variations depend on how long it takes in the water to release the decal from the backing, how easily it moves once on surface, how it responds to the setting solution (some decals weaken and start to stretch if you pull them along), and how well the settle along compound curves.  I always  start with some of the least noticable and important decals.  I always scan each decal sheet in case I mess one or more and need to make inkjet copies.

This is a very important point. I'm currently using a set from a well thought of AM company for the first time, and it's just problem after problem. I should have done more testing early, and now have had to kluge up some alternate deck markings.

The latest is that after putting all of the markings on the deck, I stupidly sprayed it with dullkote.

To my horror, everything sort of drifted. I was so upset I went out back and sawed up a bunch of scrap wood.

Several hours later I went back to the bench and they had mostly gone back to where they belonged.Whew.

 Modeling is an excuse to buy books.

 

  • Member since
    May 2013
  • From: Indiana, USA
Posted by Greg on Sunday, November 17, 2019 1:23 PM

JohnnyK
.....one drop of dishwashing detergent into a bowl of warm water. I flood the area where I am going to place the detail with the warm water and the decal would easily slide.

That's what I do too, fwiw.

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