Decal sliding

JohnnyK

.....one drop of dishwashing detergent into a bowl of warm water. I flood the area where I am going to place the detail with the warm water and the decal would easily slide.

That's what I do too, fwiw.

Don Stauffer

In general I find every mfgr's decals to have slight differences.  Variations depend on how long it takes in the water to release the decal from the backing, how easily it moves once on surface, how it responds to the setting solution (some decals weaken and start to stretch if you pull them along), and how well the settle along compound curves.  I always  start with some of the least noticable and important decals.  I always scan each decal sheet in case I mess one or more and need to make inkjet copies.

The latest is that after putting all of the markings on the deck, I stupidly sprayed it with dullkote.

To my horror, everything sort of drifted. I was so upset I went out back and sawed up a bunch of scrap wood.

Several hours later I went back to the bench and they had mostly gone back to where they belonged.Whew.

I used to have a problem with making large detals slide on Bare Metal Foil, for example the wing decals on a B-29. I solved the problem by putting one drop of dishwashing detergent into a bowl of warm water. I flood the area where I am going to place the detail with the warm water and the decal would easily slide. I would guess that this should also work on a painted surface.

Discovered the same thing awhile ago,water only,then the setting solution of choice after it is placed.

I had one set of decals like that recently.  Do not remember the brand of the kit.  But after the first two decals I learned to apply them as accurately as possible. I found if I did need to move it a bit, I could use my fine point tweezers to lift a corner and apply some water at that point with a Q-tip, which did float the decal enough to move it the needed amount.

In general I find every mfgr's decals to have slight differences.  Variations depend on how long it takes in the water to release the decal from the backing, how easily it moves once on surface, how it responds to the setting solution (some decals weaken and start to stretch if you pull them along), and how well the settle along compound curves.  I always  start with some of the least noticable and important decals.  I always scan each decal sheet in case I mess one or more and need to make inkjet copies.

Yeah, lather, rinse, repeat....

Sliding it into a pool of water is fine. A pool of micro set can be messy. And I try not to use micro sol.

Very large decals should be cut into pieces.

Thanks, will try water. The MicroSet instructions say to apply it to the surface first and then on the decal after it is placed. Didn't work for me so I will use water before placement.

Use only water to apply decals to the model's surface.  Use MicroSol and/or Microset only after the decal has been positioned with water, and blotted. Then you can apply the setting solutions, and do not try to move the decal after you have done that.  The decal will wrinkle up and look horrible, but do not touch the decal until completely dry.  The wrinkles will magically disappear when it is dry.

With a larger decal it covers more surface area so it would be harder to move. I would apply some water to the surface, get the decal in position then blot away excess water, then apply the setting solution of choice.