Tamiya glue

It's possible that you're not using the right technique in applying the cement. Like most liquid cements, Tamiya's orange (regular) and green (extra thin) capped cements are volatile solvents. Thsi means they "glue" parts together by solvent action melting the plastic slightly so that the parts adhere to each other (this is sometimes referred to as "solvent welding") If you brush the cement onto one part and press the parts together, often, the cement simply hasn't enough time to melt the plastic sufficiently and though the parts stick initially, they will quickly fall apart.

The best way to use liquid solvent type cements is to hold the parts together and apply the brush to the join between the parts. The close contact between the parts will draw the liquid cement into the joint and give the cement more "active time" between the parts to form a good bond.

Beware. Be sparing with the cement. As the cement flows along the joint easily via capillary action, it also flows along panel lines and ridges on the parts. Be aware of where your fingers are and watch out for any lines/ridges which may draw cement below your fingertips. Many a model/part has been ruined this way. 

Good luck!

Phil, The orange Tamiya is too thick to apply via the capilary method. You put some on the parts and the bring them together. I have never heard of it not working though. Are you sure you aren't using resin or vinyl parts? It won't work on those. It should always work with styrene though.

modelmaker66

The orange Tamiya is too thick to apply via the capilary method.

I hadn't realised that. I've used the white (thick) and the green (thin) Tamiya cements. For some reason I'd always assumed the orange was similar to the Testors "pink label" liquid cement. Having just checked the Tamiya "orange cap" (I have one, but haven't used it) it is indeed thicker than I thought.

In relation to the original problem, there's a number of possible things to consider (a) the type of plastic, as mentioned (b) the size of the contact area on the parts being glued (c) whether the parts being glued are load-bearing (d) age or possible contamination of the cement (e) surface contamination causing the cement not to stick 

I use the Tamiya Orange cap cement and the Extra thin excluxively and they work great for me with the exception they both manage to occasionally leave their fingerprints on my models. I have no idea how they do that.

the one with the orange cap is the limonene version, which I believe is not as strong as their regular glue (white cap).

I would buy a bottle of their white cap glue

Tickmagnet

I use the Tamiya Orange cap cement and the Extra thin excluxively and they work great for me with the exception they both manage to occasionally leave their fingerprints on my models. I have no idea how they do that.

 

I usually use the green cap stuff,never looked at the orange.Your saying that stuff is used glue to pieces together as opposed to welding the pieces together as the green cap does.

If so I must get some could be useful too

modelmaker66

I have never heard of it not working though. Are you sure you aren't using resin or vinyl parts? It won't work on those. It should always work with styrene though.

My thoughts exactly.

I've been using the orange cap for a year or so now, really like it for joins that aren't suited for the capillary action method, as already mentioned.

I do suppose if the jar is really, really old it may have expired. That's just a guess, I've not had a jar long enough for that to happen.

Hi;

 Aha! the Heller Soliel Royale! Nice project. When I built mine, Many years ago, I used Testors liquid Cement. I now use the Tamiya green top for everything except Resin of course. I didn't know about the others. Never have seen them as a matter of fact!

     Now that said. If you aren't getting Capillary action it is because the glue is too thick to depend on this. A thin coat on both parts and then wait 30 seconds and then clamp should work. I remember when Tube glues were the only choice. The thinnest which was REVELL even said ,"Put a thin film on both parts let set for a few seconds and then fasten together ,clamping well."

     These Glues you mention, and that the others have mentioned I have again, Never seen or heard of. I have mostly in my years used the aforementioned Testors or Solvaset.

The orange cap cement is great for situations where using the capillary method isn't an option.  I mostly use the green cap cement though.

As always, you guys come to the rescue!

The parts I am trying to glue are the canons in the lower deck, since the deck is not going to be seen, I did not prime it or painted it. I did wash both the canons (The canons base, since they are red and that is going to be finish color, I did not paint them either ) and the deck. I will be more careful when applying the glue and also will check out the white capped glue.

I was not aware of how the different types of glues worked, I will keep that in mind.

Thanks again

Joe

PD. I am running a tread called “My Royal built” were I go into detail on the construction of the ship.

bluenote

the one with the orange cap is the limonene version, which I believe is not as strong as their regular glue (white cap).

The orange capped 20ml in the hexagonal bottle (87012) is regular solvent based cement. The Limonene version is also orange capped, but comes in the larger 40ml square bottle and is clearly labelled as "Limonene"

Solvent glue needs a decent pair of mating surfaces. 

Having-fun

I have been using Tamiya glue (The one with the orange cap ) and I have notice that sometimes it does not glue the parts, some of the parts that I had glue they simple come off after a few hours.The area in question is not painted, was washed with soup and water and I have put sufficient amount of glue on the object being glue. Do I am doing something wrong or do I am applying the glue incorrectly? Is there a problem, with the Tamiya glue?

Thanks

Joe

PD The model being built is the Heller Le Solei Royal.

Hi,

I sometimes use the Orange capped Tamiya glue, mostly with no problems, but I also sometimes will use Plastruct Plastiweld for other bonding glues in certin areas, especially if I am having trouble getting a prt to stick.

Pat

PS. he other hand I see in your initial post you are washing the parts with soup & water, so maybe the chicken noodles are getting in the way of a good bond 

I've tried these "new" glues and didn't like the results.

New doesn't always mean better.

So I went back to the good ol' laquer thinner I've always used.

MUCH cheaper too.

"PS. he other hand I see in your initial post you are washing the parts with soup & water, so maybe the chicken noodles are getting in the way of a good bond "

Hey, I was told that chicken soup would cure just about anything! LOL

Yes, sometimes I do misspell or use the wrong word because it sounds similar, in addition to be a lousy typist, ( I type at about 35 words per minutes, but commit 32 errors per minute ) obviously I was referring to soap.

Joe

I picked up some of the Orange Cap stuff,really love it.Not as a replacement for the Green Cap but it really worked well for my Sherman fenders,as was mentioned,its great for hulls,wings, and fuselages.

Great stuff thanks.Sometimes get a narrow focus and don't always see different stuff.

disastermaster

I've tried these "new" glues and didn't like the results.

New doesn't always mean better.

So I went back to the good ol' laquer thinner I've always used.

MUCH cheaper too.

 

just straight LT?

Ive got more glues than i probably need.  But i use model master glue in the black triangular bottle with the long neck.  Label on my new one reads Rustoleum.  Hope they didnt change the formula.

Tojo72

 

 

Tickmagnet

I use the Tamiya Orange cap cement and the Extra thin excluxively and they work great for me with the exception they both manage to occasionally leave their fingerprints on my models. I have no idea how they do that.

 

 

 

 

I usually use the green cap stuff,never looked at the orange.Your saying that stuff is used glue to pieces together as opposed to welding the pieces together as the green cap does.

If so I must get some could be useful too

 

The orange cap cement you spread on the parts then attach them. Not sure if it's welding them like the thin or not but it works well for parts I cannot or do not want to use capillary action on. It dries slower so you have time to work with it.

The Orange Cap stuff also welds the plastic together...just doesn't almost instantly evaporate like the green.

It looks like this never got sorted.

This is baffling, the orange cap stuff is about as fool proof as possible, and as MM66 said, I've never heard of it not working, either.

Are the parts resin by any chance? Or nylon or anything other than styrene?

Hi Greg!

       Having Built this kit twice over the years,I can assure you there is no resin in this kit. However some Heller kits do take longer to react to some glues. I could NEVER get the Testors Tube Glue to stick on the first one. That's when I discovered the Liquid Cements!

     That said, I have come to the conclusion that Heller was NOT using Virgin Styrene. Even trace amounts of  any other type in that chain would elicit a different reaction. I have also had that problem with some Imaii Kits!

Greg

This is baffling, the orange cap stuff is about as fool proof as possible,

I'm not sure if the OP is using the regular orange cap or the orange cap limonene. The regular orange cap, as I mentioned above, is 20ml and comes in a hexagonal jar. The limonene variety comes in a 40ml jar. If it is the limonene version, I can see it being not as strong (though I've never used it so I may be off-base)

On a related note, does anyone know if the 40ml white cap is the same cement as the 20ml orange cap?

a little off topic i think - but - whats good for resin parts?

Tanker-Builder

Hi Greg!

       Having Built this kit twice over the years,I can assure you there is no resin in this kit. However some Heller kits do take longer to react to some glues. I could NEVER get the Testors Tube Glue to stick on the first one. That's when I discovered the Liquid Cements!

     That said, I have come to the conclusion that Heller was NOT using Virgin Styrene. Even trace amounts of  any other type in that chain would elicit a different reaction. I have also had that problem with some Imaii Kits!

 

Hey TB. That's an informative post, might clear up many things.

I was going to mention that the Testors Orange cap is about as close to tube glue as I've seen, and I'm not sure I agree with some posts here that is is just a thick solvent. I think it is filler and solvent, designed to fill gaps. I never quite understood how tube glue works in the first place, so I'm just guessing.

I haven't done a Heller kit since the 60's, so any peculiarities in the plastic are lost to memory.

Again, good post, thanks.

The white gasket in the lid of the tamiya glues falls out of the lid alot with me,anybody else?

Phil_H

 

 

Greg

This is baffling, the orange cap stuff is about as fool proof as possible,

 

 

I'm not sure if the OP is using the regular orange cap or the orange cap limonene. The regular orange cap, as I mentioned above, is 20ml and comes in a hexagonal jar. The limonene variety comes in a 40ml jar. If it is the limonene version, I can see it being not as strong (though I've never used it so I may be off-base)

On a related note, does anyone know if the 40ml white cap is the same cement as the 20ml orange cap?

 

Ah, I looked up the limonene version and I see what you mean. Both 'orange caps. Thanks for elaborating, I understand your comment above better now.

I didn't even know about the limonene version. Took two posts to get through my thick skull, but you made it.

Mrchntmarine

a little off topic i think - but - whats good for resin parts?

 

I've always heard CA or epoxy.

I like to use CA gel with resin, and Bob Smith's IC-Gel is my preferred brand, FWIW. Nothing has fallen apart so far. Knock wood.

I don't have as much experience with resin as others here, so maybe there will be better advice to follow.

Tojo72

I usually use the green cap stuff,never looked at the orange.Your saying that stuff is used glue to pieces together as opposed to welding the pieces together as the green cap does...

If I may offer a clarification, both glues work by welding the pieces together.  The difference between the two is in thickness.

The one is thin enough that you can hold two pieces together-fuselage halves, say-and use the applicator to flow the glue into that seam, where it melts the plastic and forms the weld. 

The other is a little thicker, and won't flow sufficiently, so you have to brush it on to the parts and then place them together.  The glue still melts the plastic and forms a weld.

Best regards,

Brad