Enter keywords or a search phrase below:
Quick question. How do you guys keep tiny, thin parts from being damaged when cutting them from the sprue? I'm talking about stuff like control sticks, landing gear struts, etc... While working on an Airfix 1/72 P-40, the joystick snapped in half as I cut it from the sprue using sprue cutters. I had even set the part on a bed of tape to prevent it from flying off when cut. Thanks for any advice.
On the bench: Revell-USS Arizona; Airfix P-51D in 1/72
If I feel that a small part like you describe will be damaged when removing from the sprue I simply use a lighter to heat up a blade. Then the hot blade just melts through the attach point of the part and the sprue and problem solved. No broken parts.
I have had the same problem with tiny parts that have more than one attachment point to the sprue. When I run into that situation now, I use my jeweler's saw with an 8/0 spiral blade in it. It cuts through the attachment points quickly and gently, putting no stress on the part itself. Just be slow and let the blade do the work.
"You can have my illegal fireworks when you pry them from my cold, dead fingers...which are...over there somewhere."
For thinner parts i use mylnger nosed Xuron sprue cutters and i don't cut right up to the part. I find it easier to remove the attachment when the part is not on the sprue.
I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so
On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3
I use several methods. I use a JLC razor saw and either cut close to the part or cut the injection port next to the sprue frame and clean up with a xacto/scalpel. I will do the same with a pair of. sprue nippers.
Sometimes, you have to look at how the part is attached to the sprue and determine which point to cut first that would put less stress on the part. Cutting the wrong point could put a lot of stress on that part and cause it to break.
Go To Yout Local Hobby Store or Catalogue;
You may be lucky and find the sets like I have of Photoetched saws. They are as thick as an X-Acto blade or almost as thin as a piece of cardstock. Gently stroke back and forth use no unnecessary pressure! These have worked for me for over twenty years!
I have a block I made up for this purpose, It is a 4 x 5 block of MDH with a little platauo on it made from a piece of 1/4 inch basswood. The piece is a triange (acute). I have about a sixteenth radius fairing that angle into an arc. This piece acts as an anvil for my X-acto knife. Do not use a #11 blade- the point brakes to easily- for cutting PE. I keep one of two blades in it, either a chisel blade or a wide blade with a quarter circle on the end and the cutting edge on the bottom. These wide angle pointed blades last a lot longer than a sharp angled edge. The rounded triangle allows me to put sprue on it such the sprue link to be cut lies on the surface of the basswood for good cuttting.
Don Stauffer in Minnesota
Mr Mike Sometimes, you have to look at how the part is attached to the sprue and determine which point to cut first that would put less stress on the part. Cutting the wrong point could put a lot of stress on that part and cause it to break.
Our community is FREE to join. To participate you must either login or register for an account.