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Nice viddy.
It's pretty sad when the OP (original poster) goes radio silent after their intro.
It's been asked- scale?
We have no idea whether the model is 2, 3 6 12 inches long.
Done looking in.
Bill
Modeling is an excuse to buy books.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nCZVovoGonM
recommended how-to for dioramas is Luke Towan. He does dioramas for a museum, so knows his stuff.
My Photo Album
Many underwater dios dodge the whole resin thing by using a 'box' approach made of colored or tinted plexiglass with a cutout on the top panel (to which surface wave texture is added) for the ship. All kinds of artsy effects of lighting and such are possible...but what really sells it is how well what's below the surface is rendered.
Google around; there are lots of examples and a few great Youtube vids as well.
Greg
George Lewis:
Actually John, it was three times. Killed it's inventor the second time.
That cursed sub killed its crew twice!
Thanks,
John
[quote user="Rome Bob"]
I would like to do an underwater diorama of the CSS Hunley attack where you can see above and below the waterline. does anyone know a good acrylic product that is clear that the model can be seen below the waterline?
thanks for your help. My first crack at the forum. very helpful. "Rome Bob"]
Yeah, it does get hot so go slow so you don't end up with slag for a model.
I also recommend plexiglass for deep Dios. Resin is very heavy.
Steve
Building a kit from your stash is like cutting a head off a Hydra, two more take it's place.
http://www.spamodeler.com/forum/
modelcrazy There are several, but expensive. I used Castn' Craft from Hobby Lobby to create my sunken Zero. I was thinking of trying the car body resin from Walmart. It's less expensive but don't know how well it will work.
There are several, but expensive. I used Castn' Craft from Hobby Lobby to create my sunken Zero. I was thinking of trying the car body resin from Walmart. It's less expensive but don't know how well it will work.
I would also recommend polyester. But there is a caution. When it is setting (after you add the catalyst) it can get pretty hot. It gets pretty hot when it is an inch deep or so. So pour it in layers an eigth or quarter inch or so. Do not wait to long between pours. As soon as it is no longer hot, pour the next layer.
Don Stauffer in Minnesota
At one contest there was a dioramawith a battleship with protective nets and a British X-Craft going under it to drop its saddle charges. The battleship was resting in a hole cut into some plexaglass that had been lightly textured and mounted to a solid background that formed the mountain near the ship. The sides were also plexiglass tinted to show the water which was pretty clear and not too deep. The overall effect looked good.
Really, really love that build/dio.
Rome Bob I would like to do an underwater diorama of the CSS Hunley attack where you can see above and below the waterline. does anyone know a good acrylic product that is clear that the model can be seen below the waterline?
Sorry I can't help but if you go to the "Ship" section of the Forums I'm pretty sure you will get a lot of help there.
Hope that this helps.
Jim
Stay Safe.
Main WIP:
On the Bench: Artesania Latina (aka) Artists in the Latrine 1/75 Bluenose II
I keep hitting "escape", but I'm still here.
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