Enter keywords or a search phrase below:
Subject: Model Putties:
Many of us use many types of model putty. Some even use my favorite, 3-M RED-MICRO Glazing Putty. I guess it's called that because it feathers to invisibility on surfaces. Anyway, the thing is I have used pretty Much the whole Gamut of products out there and keep going back to the above named putty.
Why? Well, while using it I discovered a neat little trick, Taking a "Q"Tip I rubbed a little Lacquer Thinner on the surface of both parts. Let it gas out. Then apply the 3-M and shape with a wet clay shaping tool or your fingertip that you dipped in water. Different tool for different surfaces, right?
When you sand , ONLY WET Sand. Dry sanding is a No-No anyway in my book( Unless you're working in wood that is!) Then, you will have discovered that you can use the "Q"Tip trick with anyone's putty with awesome results !
Dry sanding is okay if you want to buy sandpaper by the gross
Actually, when I have to sand off a lot, say a thick putty spot, and I use 150 or 240 grit, I do not wet sand- the dust particles can be blown off pretty easily. Yes, I do have to go to those grades once in a while (I am building a Williams Bros kit right now).
Don Stauffer in Minnesota
Hi:
I have two Williams Brothers Kits.The C-46 and the Airplane Engine. The Plane is awesome! Enjoy!
I'll just stick with CA, black Sharpie, and wet sanding from 1500-12000 grit to make all of the black from the Sharpie disappear for small gaps and seams. For larger ones I just work a little Apoxie Clay in there and shape, smooth, and level with a damp Q-tip and maybe a wet toothpick when needed...no sanding required.
"You can have my illegal fireworks when you pry them from my cold, dead fingers...which are...over there somewhere."
Tanker-Builder Hi: I have two Williams Brothers Kits.The C-46 and the Airplane Engine. The Plane is awesome! Enjoy!
The engines are among their better kits. The C-46 had a few flash and fit problems but turned out fine.
I like using PPP on most gaps like here:
The masking tape is positioned on both sides of the gap. PPP is then applied and about 30 minutes later a water dampened Q Tip cleans up the joint.
The masking tape is then removed. No sanding, no mess.
Too many models to build, not enough time in a lifetime!!
rocketman2000. Yes, I do have to go to those grades once in a while (I am building a Williams Bros kit right now).
Bill
Modeling is an excuse to buy books.
plasticjunkie I like using PPP on most gaps like here: The masking tape is positioned on both sides of the gap. PPP is then applied and about 30 minutes later a water dampened Q Tip cleans up the joint. The masking tape is then removed. No sanding, no mess.
sorry if its a dumb question..but what is PPP?
Perfect Plastic Putty. Comes in a short toothpaste type tube. It tends to dry in the tube, but just add water and knead the tube to mix.
Sands easy, and mostly can be shaped and cleaned up with the damp Q-tip.
Perfect Plastic Putty.
It's good only if the join isn't going to move, then it's prone to crack. But your right PJ, it goes on great.
Steve
Building a kit from your stash is like cutting a head off a Hydra, two more take it's place.
http://www.spamodeler.com/forum/
Our community is FREE to join. To participate you must either login or register for an account.
