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Ways to measure dimensional accuracy?

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  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Reno, NV
Ways to measure dimensional accuracy?
Posted by espins1 on Friday, June 8, 2007 10:27 AM

First off, let me state right up front that I'm not a rivet counter.... as long as the model is reasonably accurate in terms of options and configurations then I'm happy. Whistling [:-^] That being said....

What are some ways to measure dimensional accuracy?  Are they're any good tools you'd recommend for use in measuring the length of the kit fuselage or wings for example?  Obviously from there I'd need to convert the measurements to full size, or shrink down the measurements of the real thing for comparison purposes.  What are some of the tricks you would use, or that you've seen others use to take the measurements? Question [?]

Scott Espin - IPMS Reno High Rollers  Geeked My Reviews 

  • Member since
    May 2003
  • From: Abbotsford, B.C. Canada
Posted by DrewH on Friday, June 8, 2007 10:40 AM

One favorite tool is a small metal work square. The ones you use to draw 90 deg angles. I place the square on a sheet of paper, put the square flat side down, and gently move it to the end of the wing lets say. Make a light pencil mark at the base then go to the other side and repeat. Then you measure the distance "over" the pencil lines. Remember the utside of the line was against the square that was touching the outer edge of the wing. It's best to use a digital calliper for that to be precise. After that it's really a matter of simple math.

I had to do that building the Tamiya P-47 to figure out which prop I needed. If you need more help, drop me an email.

Take this plastic and model it!
  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: Mansfield, TX
Posted by EdGrune on Friday, June 8, 2007 11:56 AM

My single favorite tool for measuring models is a pair of draftsman's dividers.   When I need to measure a length of railing to cut -- instead of trying to guestimate with a ruler, I simply adjust the thumbwheel to spread the points to the desired measurement and transfer it directly to the railing.  

The dividers are also good for stepping off a constant distance (i.e. rivit spacing) or marking a constant distance offset from an irregular surface. 

I got mine from the mechanical drawing tools in the local Staples office supply store,  but I've seen them in Hobby Lobby or other craft stores too.  They are similar to the circle-drawing compass which you used in elementary school math -- but have 2 points instead of a pencil lead.   Pay a bit more to get a better quality set.

  • Member since
    July 2003
  • From: Pensacola, FL
Posted by Foster7155 on Friday, June 8, 2007 12:50 PM
For me, the tool for measuring model parts is the micrometer. Works great for scratch-building as well.

Robert Foster

Pensacola Modeleers

  • Member since
    March 2007
  • From: Kansas city
Posted by kcmat on Friday, June 8, 2007 6:11 PM

I use most of what's already been mentioned as well. Though I'd say the 2 items I use most would be a basic 6" steel rule and a 6" dial caliper. I baught one of those 1/35 rulers that converts right there on the ruler but haven't really used it yet. Maybe when I lay out more structural pieces for dios.

And I must admit the graduations along my cutting mat has been utilized as well. Blush [:I]

http://www.myspace.com/madmat77
  • Member since
    February 2006
  • From: Smithers, BC, Canada
Posted by ruddratt on Friday, June 8, 2007 7:55 PM
 EdGrune wrote:

My single favorite tool for measuring models is a pair of draftsman's dividers.   When I need to measure a length of railing to cut -- instead of trying to guestimate with a ruler, I simply adjust the thumbwheel to spread the points to the desired measurement and transfer it directly to the railing.  

That's pretty much all I use. In addition to what Ed uses it for, I also find it quite handy in rigging biplanes.

Mike

 "We have our own ammunition. It's filled with paint. When we fire it, it makes pretty pictures....scares the hell outta people."

 

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Reno, NV
Posted by espins1 on Monday, June 11, 2007 9:30 PM
Great information gentlemen!  I appreciate all the pointers.  Smile [:)]

Scott Espin - IPMS Reno High Rollers  Geeked My Reviews 

  • Member since
    March 2006
  • From: Drummondville, Quebec, Canada
Posted by Yann Solo on Monday, June 11, 2007 9:40 PM

First :

 espins1 wrote:

First off, let me state right up front that I'm not a rivet counter.... 

Then:

 espins1 wrote:

Are they're any good tools you'd recommend for use in measuring the length of the kit fuselage or wings for example? 

What's up Scott?  Do you have other inner battle like that or any dilema you want to share with us.Big Smile [:D]

Come on .... let it out of the bag ..... there is no shame in being a rivet counter!Laugh [(-D]

No matter where you go ....... there you are.
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Reno, NV
Posted by espins1 on Tuesday, June 12, 2007 4:00 PM
 Yann Solo wrote:

First :

 espins1 wrote:

First off, let me state right up front that I'm not a rivet counter.... 

Then:

 espins1 wrote:

Are they're any good tools you'd recommend for use in measuring the length of the kit fuselage or wings for example? 

What's up Scott?  Do you have other inner battle like that or any dilema you want to share with us.Big Smile [:D]

Come on .... let it out of the bag ..... there is no shame in being a rivet counter!Laugh [(-D]

Laugh [(-D] Well, there were two reasons why I was asking. 

I'd like to learn the best way to measure so it will help me when judging accuracy when I write future kit reviews and build write ups.  Also, as my modeling skills continue to evolve and get better, scratchbuilding is starting to enter the picture for me, so I'd like to be able to have a good theoretical starting point for designing accurately sized parts.  Smile [:)]

It's funny how as I get better at modeling, accuracy is slowly becoming more and more important to me.  Hopefully I won't go off the deep end and will keep my standards at a sane level.  Wink [;)]

Scott Espin - IPMS Reno High Rollers  Geeked My Reviews 

  • Member since
    March 2006
  • From: Drummondville, Quebec, Canada
Posted by Yann Solo on Tuesday, June 12, 2007 6:54 PM

I fully understand Scott.  The more documentation I have about a subject, the more details and accuracy I expect from the kit.  I'm not too fussy about some little dimensional issues yet but if it does appear out of place like the suspension on the M3 Lee, I must admit I will probably buy the aftermarket kit.

To answer your original question, it all depends on how much you want to pay.  A simple mechanical caliper can be of great help and you can have one for a good price at any hardware store.

 

No matter where you go ....... there you are.
  • Member since
    May 2003
  • From: Abbotsford, B.C. Canada
Posted by DrewH on Tuesday, June 12, 2007 9:47 PM
Laugh [(-D] You said it Yann! I wasn't going to, glad you did!! He isn't but he is going to count them rivets! Tongue [:P] Now, how do we keep the ego from inflating? Sign - Dots [#dots]
Take this plastic and model it!
  • Member since
    March 2006
  • From: Drummondville, Quebec, Canada
Posted by Yann Solo on Wednesday, June 13, 2007 5:53 AM
Let it inflates until it burst!Big Smile [:D]
No matter where you go ....... there you are.
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Reno, NV
Posted by espins1 on Wednesday, June 13, 2007 9:51 AM

 DrewH wrote:
Laugh [(-D] You said it Yann! I wasn't going to, glad you did!! He isn't but he is going to count them rivets! Tongue [:P] Now, how do we keep the ego from inflating? Sign - Dots [#dots]

hey, it's all about context  Wink [;)] Laugh [(-D]

now let's see... that bow armor plate is .0001 mm to thick....  Shock [:O] Whistling [:-^]

Scott Espin - IPMS Reno High Rollers  Geeked My Reviews 

  • Member since
    June 2004
  • From: Akron ohio
Posted by phoenix7187 on Tuesday, June 19, 2007 10:22 PM

Basically I do the same. Dial veriner (sp) calipers or I have highly accurate scale drawing of some aircraft I can make a comparsion too. I also have a steel mechinest rule that goes down to 1/64 of an inch. Scale drawing and actual pics are good for determining shape problems and such like props, spinners, poorly shaped gun hood on G-10'sBig Smile [:D].

Accuracy is a funny thing. Some don't care about it at all. On the flip side there are those modelers that accuracy is everything. But I do like when a model shows up and has a thousand added/scratch built parts on it the guy talks about how accurate it is only to find out he placed the fuselage crosses a scale 3 feet too far foward. What a way to have your bubble bustedEvil [}:)]  I did this by accident this weekendDead [xx(]

Stan
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Reno, NV
Posted by espins1 on Wednesday, June 20, 2007 3:15 PM
 phoenix7187 wrote:

Accuracy is a funny thing. Some don't care about it at all. On the flip side there are those modelers that accuracy is everything. But I do like when a model shows up and has a thousand added/scratch built parts on it the guy talks about how accurate it is only to find out he placed the fuselage crosses a scale 3 feet too far foward. What a way to have your bubble bustedEvil [}:)]  I did this by accident this weekendDead [xx(]

Doh!  Shock [:O]  Bummer man.  Laugh [(-D]  Happens to the best of us.

Scott Espin - IPMS Reno High Rollers  Geeked My Reviews 

  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Panama City, Florida, Hurricane Alley
Posted by berny13 on Wednesday, June 20, 2007 4:54 PM
 Yann Solo wrote:

I fully understand Scott.  The more documentation I have about a subject, the more details and accuracy I expect from the kit.  I'm not too fussy about some little dimensional issues yet but if it does appear out of place like the suspension on the M3 Lee, I must admit I will probably buy the aftermarket kit.

To answer your original question, it all depends on how much you want to pay.  A simple mechanical caliper can be of great help and you can have one for a good price at any hardware store.

 

Take a close look.  Your dial is out of calibration.  Whistling [:-^]Smile,Wink, & Grin [swg]

Berny

 Phormer Phantom Phixer

On the bench

TF-102A Delta Dagger, 32nd FIS, 54-1370, 1/48 scale. Monogram Pro Modeler with C&H conversion.  

Revell F-4E Phantom II 33rd TFW, 58th TFS, 69-260, 1/32 scale. 

Tamiya F-4D Phantom II, 13th TFS, 66-8711, 1/32 scale.  F-4 Phantom Group Build. 

 

  • Member since
    February 2006
  • From: Smithers, BC, Canada
Posted by ruddratt on Wednesday, June 20, 2007 6:03 PM
....or maybe the jaws are not closed all the way. Wink [;)]

Mike

 "We have our own ammunition. It's filled with paint. When we fire it, it makes pretty pictures....scares the hell outta people."

 

  • Member since
    July 2013
Posted by DURR on Friday, June 29, 2007 8:40 PM

espin1 i am with you on the  if it looks like the real thing it is ok with me

 

 

 

Sign - Off Topic!! [#offtopic]  i checked out your www very nice   it looks like you have a great family there

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Reno, NV
Posted by espins1 on Friday, June 29, 2007 9:43 PM

Thanks DURR.  Smile [:)]

I desperately need to update it.  I have so many new pictures I need to get on there from the last year or two.  I'm going to have a separate section which will have all my tank and aircraft pictures as well, I have hundreds from just the past 3 months.  Laugh [(-D]

Scott Espin - IPMS Reno High Rollers  Geeked My Reviews 

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