Another dumb question

Old dry transfers can be resurected by holding them next to your body for about fifteen minutes. The warmth softens them and reactivates the stickiness. I set mine atop of my flourescent lamp above my bench which is slightly warmer than my body temp. Dry transfers should be kept in sealed ziploc bags with their wax paper protection sheet to keep them viable longer.

Back in the late 70s and early 80s, Letraset had a quite comprehensive line of aircraft dry transfers for 1/72 and 1/48 aircraft (and 1/72, 1/48 & 1/35 armor).  Initially, the biggest problem was getting them aligned/located exactly where you wanted them (once you started rubbing them, thats where they stayed - try to move them and they broke up).  Then it was discovered that if you opened the pack, used a few of them on a model and then stored the rest in the open pack, when you went to use them in a month or two, they wouldn't hold to anything.  Since you could buy a set of regular decals for the same price and they were still usuable after being stored for a couple of years, people stopped buying them and they were discontinued.  Letraset is still in business, producing letter sets of verious types for folks who need to make signs and placards (check in your local business supply shops).  And I believe they continue to make a product line for model railroaders.

Dry transfers are a emulsion bonded "backwards" to a carrier film. They are a staple of the graphic design industry, and we call them rub downs.

The BIG problem is that they have a really short shelf life, like 6 months.

If you go into a art supply store and see transfers hanging on a rotary rack, don't buy them.

We order them to use within a week, and even then not often.

Dry transfer markings for hobbies are to be avoided, its bound to be old stock.

Look online for decal production techniques or services, even in these forums.

Bill

Actually, that's a new one to me too! Sounds kinda like that "Presto Magick" rubbing toys i had when i was a kid....

ok that clears thing's up

 

many thanks

Dry transfers are rubbed onto the surface of the model. You use a stylus, like a dull pencil to rub the transfer into position. Another method is to rub the transfer onto a clear decal film sheet and apply like a normal waterslide decal.