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Attempt to finish an italeri 1/72 mangusta

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  • Member since
    October 2008
  • From: italy
Posted by bsyamato on Monday, February 15, 2010 4:14 AM

thanxx Dust Cool

regular problems lost pieces that blow up when decided to scratch it, but "fortunately" .. till now the rotor was definitely lost.

The mangusta missing again the diorama Snail

  • Member since
    April 2009
  • From: Mercer WI
Posted by DustOffUH1 on Friday, December 4, 2009 5:02 PM

Nice work!!!!! Funny story about missing parts. I lost a very tiny part for my UH-60 Blackhawk. I didn't vacuum for 2 weeks, in hopes I would find it. I searched and searched and searched the carpet. Honestly I spent a lot of time looking for it. So finally I decided it was lost forever. I vacuumed 2 times since then and then a week later there it was right in front of my work chair! Sticking up out of the carpet like a gopher poping his head up out of his gopher hole. I couldn't believe it :) Maybe my cats are playing games with me.

Anyway,,, very nice work, and also a nice job on the scratch tail rotor :)

  • Member since
    October 2008
  • From: italy
Posted by bsyamato on Thursday, December 3, 2009 12:09 PM

Big Smile [:D]

Finally the mangusta is done.

Take advantage of a sunny day taken some pics:

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Close-up of scratched tail rotor:

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that's all for now.

In future i'll put in a little diorama.. i hope so Grumpy [|(]

 

  • Member since
    October 2008
  • From: italy
Posted by bsyamato on Thursday, November 26, 2009 10:23 AM

Uh!!... you placed to do an ambush smeagol Big Smile [:D]

No time to finish the post !! 

After this i'll  planning the diorama

  • Member since
    April 2008
  • From: Philadelphia PA
Posted by smeagol the vile on Thursday, November 26, 2009 10:19 AM
Wow long time no post eh'?  That scratch looks great.

 

  • Member since
    October 2008
  • From: italy
Posted by bsyamato on Thursday, November 26, 2009 10:18 AM

After six months finally decided to scratch the lost tail rotor.. heres the actual results:

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Former by various plasticard rods and sheet for blabes, the result seems not so bad, the ready for the first layer of black:

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That's all for now, this sunday hope to finally finish the mangusta Big Smile [:D]

 

  • Member since
    April 2008
  • From: Philadelphia PA
Posted by smeagol the vile on Thursday, June 11, 2009 3:48 AM

Looking good!

 

Let me explain something to everyone about primer.  The color behind the paint can change how the paint acts.  If its a white primer, the paint tends to come out bright, a darker primer, it doesnt come out as bright.  It also allows for a solid color base for painting, if the plastic under it changes, the tone of the color can change, someties its to subtle to see, sometimes not.

 

  • Member since
    October 2008
  • From: italy
Posted by bsyamato on Wednesday, June 10, 2009 3:44 AM

Thanx avus!

I believe that when i scratch it, paint and finish.. as ever when i lost some piece.. the original piece came out.

  • Member since
    June 2003
  • From: Caput Mundi
Posted by Avus on Wednesday, June 10, 2009 2:06 AM

Overall it looks good to me!Thumbs Up [tup]
The panel lines look weird ... a good weird, though.

Good luck on building the tail rotor.

Klaus

Thanks to ImageShack for Free Image Hosting

  • Member since
    October 2008
  • From: italy
Posted by bsyamato on Tuesday, June 9, 2009 1:32 PM

...the helicopter is pratically finished: only the tail rotor ...... vanished..

the pics:

mangusta finish 04

mangusta finish 03

mangusta finish 02

mangusta finish 01

......

now start to scratch it .......................  Banged Head [banghead]

  • Member since
    October 2008
  • From: italy
Posted by bsyamato on Thursday, June 4, 2009 1:22 PM

..  ...   ..no pics for now

The matt layer after decals was done.... .

.. now  left only the diorama planning..final assembly.. some light to paint....

and the Banged Head [banghead] scratchbuild of recentily lost tail rotor...... Banged Head [banghead]

already finished the piece was lost..... ...   Censored [censored]

  • Member since
    October 2008
  • From: italy
Posted by bsyamato on Tuesday, May 26, 2009 12:10 PM

yes sir, this update:

decals on; after hands of olive drab the gloss clear from humbrol. i prefereto paint others colors and put littlest pieces after the matt layer:

mangusta 12

mangusta 11

mangusta 10

 

fortunately the decals was from the good type, but i make some error, to resolve with black after the kit body finished

  • Member since
    July 2007
Posted by scorpr2 on Tuesday, May 19, 2009 11:23 PM
She's comin along pretty nicely!  Keep up the good work and keep us posted.
  • Member since
    October 2008
  • From: italy
Posted by bsyamato on Tuesday, May 19, 2009 12:56 PM
 Avus wrote:


I don't prime the models when I use enamels, since enamels grip better then acrylics.

HTH

generally i put some light enamel color as primer to cover putty parts, but not even.

Actually i've decided to not use acrylics for kits, i'll paint with it only figures or others things like props.. 

at least ,after washed the old olive drab, i used... again the same olive drab but with very more thinner,

After 4 or 5 layers of paint and drybrushed with the 116 green from humbrol and black 33 this is the result for now:

Mangusta 08

Mangusta 09

Mangusta 06

Not so bad , on the second pics the most error of this kit: the wrong width of canopy, the only way to avoid this is to scrath the canopy with clear parts...

but too work to do... 

Again in mind to do a perverted diorama with this chopper.. Evil [}:)]

 

  • Member since
    June 2003
  • From: Caput Mundi
Posted by Avus on Tuesday, May 19, 2009 4:17 AM

Personally I use Tamiya's white fine primer, when using acrylics, I don't know Mr.Surfacer.
Tamiya's primer comes in a rattle can and works great for me.
In my experience primers are best applied with an airbrush or a can, but never with a brush, since it's easy to leave brush streaks.
I don't prime the models when I use enamels, since enamels grip better then acrylics.

HTH

Klaus

Thanks to ImageShack for Free Image Hosting

  • Member since
    October 2008
  • From: italy
Posted by bsyamato on Tuesday, May 19, 2009 2:58 AM
 Aaronw wrote:

Sorry no help, I use Bondo and Acrylics.

 

 I have one of those in the stash but haven't played with it yet. What do you think of the kit so far?

The overall kit is good , little problems on the cockpits panels, maded with decals, but hard to see when the kit si done, i've added some piece for gunner visor and seat belts, rotors commands etc. on outside the main problems on the canopy , too little on width for the fuselage, and some minor problem on the engines section.

Basically italeri use two source for decals one bad and one great, i hope these is from great!!

 

 Phil_H wrote:

I am curious.

Was there a particular reason for you to undercoat the entire model with Mr Surfacer? Generally I only use these primer products to fill small gaps. seams. scratches and pin marks, but not as an overall primer.

Did you paint the OD straight from the bottle or did you thin it, and if you did thin it, what did you use as a thinner?

PS: What did you use to clean your brush after applying Mr Surfacer, and did you use the same paintbrush to apply the OD?

Generally i don't use primers, but i use a grey color chosen (model master or humbrol) between the bests that i have, time ago i've bought mr surfacer as general primer, and for instructions.. only in japanese. i've tested on various surface but the brush used was ruined; all the thinners i have at the time not working.

Recently found a commercial thinner at hardware shop (2€) so i tested it as thinner/washer  and work good, so i decided to test on a kit.

Unfortunately with pure olive drab not worked as showed above. On the second  attempt heavy thinned holive drab (MM) worked, now the kit is on the dry brush stage and look good. Soon i'll take some new pics to show the final result.

not able to talk about mr surfacer but i think that work better with acrylics paints.. then not for my kits..

I have a perverted idea to do with the mangusta... Evil [}:)]

  • Member since
    August 2005
  • From: Sydney, Australia
Posted by Phil_H on Monday, May 18, 2009 8:30 PM

I am curious.

Was there a particular reason for you to undercoat the entire model with Mr Surfacer? Generally I only use these primer products to fill small gaps. seams. scratches and pin marks, but not as an overall primer.

Did you paint the OD straight from the bottle or did you thin it, and if you did thin it, what did you use as a thinner?

PS: What did you use to clean your brush after applying Mr Surfacer, and did you use the same paintbrush to apply the OD?

  • Member since
    September 2015
  • From: The Redwood Empire
Posted by Aaronw on Monday, May 18, 2009 7:01 PM

Sorry no help, I use Bondo and Acrylics.

 

 I have one of those in the stash but haven't played with it yet. What do you think of the kit so far?

  • Member since
    October 2008
  • From: italy
Attempt to finish an italeri 1/72 mangusta
Posted by bsyamato on Monday, May 18, 2009 10:11 AM

hi all.

Decided to put this work in progress mosly to verify some problems

between various products: model master enamels and mr surfacer 1000.

The kit come as below:

Mangusta 01

Sanding after model master light ghost grey and milliput putty:

Mangusta 02

first layer of mr surfacer and inner cockpit frame painted in humrol black 33:

Mangusta 04

Mangusta 03

mr surfacer very hard to apply with brush. and now the mistake,

after applied model master olive drab the enamel does not came dry, and with others layers it peel of the surface:

Mangusta 05

Waited few das for others layers but the only solution was to remove the olive drad with commercial thinner and restart the painting on mr surfacer.

Someone have encounter the same problem?

 

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