1/48 Revell Huey Hog - Once more into the fray!

Im wondering if I should cast the B-pillars with or without the soundproofing. I like Mel's example a lot. 

With Cobra Company out of business now I am actually glad I was slow on this build.

The correct Charlie model tail is a must to help this kit along. Ignore the beast at the top. It's getting a scale nose and windscreen correction for another cast.

I like the addition of those hand and small items cubby holes. Nice touch!! I never see these added.

Sorry about the missing images that started this build. I'll try to restore those by recovering the deleted files and re-adding the links back in.

Mel, great work on the scratch-built items for this kit. Reminds of that awesome rotor head you built up. Quality craftsmanship.

I got back to working on this last night after getting side tracked for a bit plus I'm just a notoriously slow builder.

I filled in the right side fuel filler cap to make it a C model which is the goal. I've seen a few folks bash this kit for having two fuel filler caps but this actually gives the builder the option of working from the short masted A model to the late war M.

I also cut the incorrect B model tail fin off and dry fitted the cambered Cobra Company Charlie model fin. The fit was perfect and boy does it doll it up immediately.

Plans for the weekend include:

- cast the 1/48 AH-1S Fujimi rotors and correct 540 head. It'll be my first time casting but I have multiples of this kit and it's a cheaper route for me. Surprisingly the Revell mast, push-pull rods and harmonic balancer all fit the Fujimi 540 rotor head perfectly. It's a snap!

- Cast the finished, trimmed rear cabin bulkhead with soundproofing to replace the stock kit version with the seat back curtains.

if time permits I'll do more.

Thanks Ray!  Will be trying to get back to modeling soon as the 1 to 1 patio work is done!   Officially retired from Chevron as of April 2nd!  Now working for Dee's Home Improvement Co.! 

Snake,

 Your Charlie model is coming right along.   I agree the 540 Fujimi head  looks better.  It also has the dust covers (at least that's what I believe they were) for the 540 head that are missing on the Revell head.

Mel,

 Get that dang model off the shelf and build er up, soldier!  That si some top notch work there.

   Ray

nice

Scratch built mini-gun, probably a tad oversize in dia.  Gun sight assy, 7 shot rocket tubes, all scratch built. I didn't mean to steal your post Snake!  All this I did many years ago and they are sitting gathering dust!  Shelf Monkey a buddy calls started and unfinished kits!  

Here is my scratch built mini-gun ammo cans with cross over drive and scratch built gunners seat.  Also interior door post with cubby holes.

Don't forget to put a "plug" in the aft top or you will see down into the cabin.

The Air Force UH-1F and P's used the Bell 204 which has a longer tail boom and hence larger rotor diameter of 48 ft. so you can use the Italeri or old ESCI UH-1D rotor system on them.  The UH-1B had the shorter tailbooms like the UH-1C and the 44ft diameter rotor systems.  The Fujimi rotor and hub is a better representation of the "540" Hub.  

Thank you both. Labor of love and a learning curve.

Using Pete Harlem's old UH-1C Crew Chief reference from 1985 he mentions correcting the rotor head by using one from the Fujimi AH-1S Cobra kit. Mine came in the other day.

The stock mast and rotor head

Fujimi on the left, Revell on the right - You can clearly see the differences. Hey! There's even a Jesus Nut on the Fujimi version.

One of the things that surprised me was there was no gain in the length of the blades.Ray has mentioned on other builds to use the UH-1D blades from another kit, Italeri I believe. The Revell blades also are segmented which does not appear to be accurate.

nice job.

Got this one in the stash. Great job so far.

Dry fitting the bulkhead to the cabin floor.

Scratch building the pillars and overhead console NOTE: I learned a very valuable lesson in this step. Sculpey softens plastic and deforms the part. I'll use Milliput going forward.

On the B model the soundproofing had rings at the top to connect to the hanging 'curtains' which are really cloth seat backs. On the Charlie model soundproofing these rings are no longer present.

Using some tin foil for a template and some Sculpey III the bulkhead is modeled onto the template. This is actually not the master I'll cast in resin. There are too many snaps, the access panel is not the right shape, and the soundproofing is too cartoon like. Not bad for a test though just to try out the technique.

Once baked I can add the attachment points for the bench seating.

I wont be doing this in any real build order.

The troop cabin bulkhead has always been a stickler on many a forum.

The whole early red fabric versus OD versus it not being used at all. I'm scratch building mine. Lucky for me I have a lot of key cards laying around from being a road warrior. The thickness is just about there for the same part from the kit. These are a PITA to cut through but once it gets the resin treatment it will work nicely for all

The stock part also leaves a small gap between the hull on each side. I tested the fit of the new piece and it takes care of that gap.

Sorry for the image being out of focus - it does seal the gap nicely.

While I am extremely happy with the Resin Kit from Cobra Company there are just a few things about it I wanted to point out. You'll have to forgive the OCD here but hey, if it's a detail kit you are looking for detail. Also we tend to beat the dog snot out of kit makers for not getting it quite right. Remember the criticism is entirely constructive not negative.

I'm going to be doing my own resin aftermarket parts so I'm sure I'll be up for my own reviews.

Peter Pilots sighting system is too thick (scratch build)

19 shot pods have lips (sand em down)

The number of Louvers on the 90 degree gear box are incorrect. Should be four rearward and three forward. On my  resin vertical fin it is 2/2 on one side of mine and 3 and 2 on the other. You can see one of the anti-collision lights will need some filler due to an air bubble during the casting process.

The Cobra Company UH-1C Conversion and Detail Set (CC48028) is a must to make this kit live up to Charlie model standards. By itself it wont make it a winner but it will close the gap to a satisfying build.