My airbrush is trash can ready...

I understand that there's a translation issue, but the post is kind of confusing.

Is the Paasche "really cheap"? IMO it's perfectly ok for some things.

I think the bigger challenge is the single action. Making fine lines is possible with it, but it's much easier to do it with a double action.

I'd look at a Paasche double action, it might save some hassles with matching airhose fittings etc.

$ 80 - $ 100 is plenty of money to spend on an a/b, and advice on which abound here.

when I said ”really cheap I wasn’t talking about my paasche airbrush. Sorry for the confusion. 

I will edit the post to avoid further confusion. 

You can find Iwata, Badger, others for less than $ 100. I have a Badger gravity feed double action. It has three sets of needle/ tip/ nozzle combos that are basically fine, medium and big.

I have an Iwata Eclipse HP-CS.  I love it.  It can do very fine lines.  I was looking for the same thing you were.  It's a bit on the expensive side, but well worth it. 

This is a 1/144 Herc that I painted free hand, no masking with my Iwata.

GMorrison

You can find Iwata, Badger, others for less than $ 100. I have a Badger gravity feed double action. It has three sets of needle/ tip/ nozzle combos that are basically fine, medium and big.

 

thanks for your reply! Do you like your batcher gravity airbrush? and have you ever tried to use it for pre-shading? 

Keyda81

I have an Iwata Eclipse HP-CS.  I love it.  It can do very fine lines.  I was looking for the same thing you were.  It's a bit on the expensive side, but well worth it. 

This is a 1/144 Herc that I painted free hand, no masking with my Iwata.

 

that looks amazing! And what nozzle size do you use? I will look into the iwata eclipse HP-CS for sure. Thanks for the recommendation.

I'm with GM, I have a Badger 105, had it for years. I have replaced the needle and nozle a couple of times and sent it in to Badger for a free overhaul but it has never failed me. It is a gravity feed dual action and bought it for under $100. I might get another brand a some point but will always get a dual action gravity feed.

Dutch-modeler

...I already got a paasche airbrush single action which is great for big projects like 1/48 bombers for example.

But now I really need an airbrush that can do very precise lines for pre shading...

But the problem is that I couldn’t do any fine lines. I tried everything by mixing the paint, adjusting air pressure etc.

but I think my nozzle is just not capable of doing this sort of job... 

You need to provide some more info, before we can really give you advice.

More specifically, which model Paasche airbrush do you have, and do you have the smallest size of tip, needle and aircap or head for it?  I have the VL, for example, and the smallest size is #1, which is a .55mm tip, with a matching needle and aircap.

A friend of mine in my club suggested removing the aircap to get a finer line, but I haven't tried it yet.  I'm not sure if he was kidding or not.

Also, you might want to ask in the Airbrush subforum, too.

the Baron

 

 

Dutch-modeler

...I already got a paasche airbrush single action which is great for big projects like 1/48 bombers for example.

But now I really need an airbrush that can do very precise lines for pre shading...

But the problem is that I couldn’t do any fine lines. I tried everything by mixing the paint, adjusting air pressure etc.

but I think my nozzle is just not capable of doing this sort of job... 

 

 

 

You need to provide some more info, before we can really give you advice.

More specifically, which model Paasche airbrush do you have, and do you have the smallest size of tip, needle and aircap or head for it?  I have the VL, for example, and the smallest size is #1, which is a .55mm tip, with a matching needle and aircap.

A friend of mine in my club suggested removing the aircap to get a finer line, but I haven't tried it yet.  I'm not sure if he was kidding or not.

Also, you might want to ask in the Airbrush subforum, too.

 

the left one is my Fengda FE-130 dual action airbrush with gravity feed, this is the one I used for the presaging which gave me deasent results at best. I got it for free with my air compressor which I bought online for €100.

On the right there is my Paasche airbrush which works great and I use it mostly for primer coats for my models. I bought the paasche airbrush H-set for 20 dollars at a hobby lobby store when I was in the usa on a holiday in Florida.

but now I want good airbrush which can paint very precise lines for pershading.

I don’t know all the exact nozzle sizes I got right now but all of them are too large for precise lines. And regarding the Fengda it just lets me down because of the quality Of the needle, for the rest it is an great airbrush. 

I hope this clear things up because I created this topic a bit in a hury which gave a lot of confusion. excuses and thanks for the help! 

So the Paasche works ok with the compressor. That's a start. Do you have a good regulator and a water trap? Those are needed.

My Badger needles are .3, .5 and .7. I've never used the .3. 

Airbrushing takes a lot of practice. It's a challenge because there are so many variables. To me it's like cooking. I started with things I could handle and did them a lot. Like for years. Then I gradually expanded my range, but it's not a quick process for a klutz like me.

Be patient.

Dutch-modeler

 

 

Keyda81

I have an Iwata Eclipse HP-CS.  I love it.  It can do very fine lines.  I was looking for the same thing you were.  It's a bit on the expensive side, but well worth it. 

This is a 1/144 Herc that I painted free hand, no masking with my Iwata.

 

 

 

 

 

that looks amazing! And what nozzle size do you use? I will look into the iwata eclipse HP-CS for sure. Thanks for the recommendation.

 

Thanks!  It was the .5.  I bought the .3, but I don't think it's really needed.  Unless you work mostly on smaller scales, but you can still get away with the .5 in my opinion.

GMorrison

So the Paasche works ok with the compressor. That's a start. Do you have a good regulator and a water trap? Those are needed.

My Badger needles are .3, .5 and .7. I've never used the .3. 

Airbrushing takes a lot of practice. It's a challenge because there are so many variables. To me it's like cooking. I started with things I could handle and did them a lot. Like for years. Then I gradually expanded my range, but it's not a quick process for a klutz like me.

Be patient.

 

If we’re comparing airbrushing to cooking I probably can make eggs and pancakes and maybe some burned chicken... but I always want to learn something new so that’s why I started with this pre-shading technique eventhought I just started modelling this past summer. So that’s like half a year. 

I do have an air pressure regulater and water trap, 

now my question is: what model badger airbrush do you have? Did you buy the set with 3 nozzles? And how much did it cost? And the most important do you like your airbrush?

I think that I’m going to buy a Badger airbrush but I don’t know which model yet. This is because the Iwata airbrushes are way to expensive for me I saw iwata Airbrushes for over €150 to even €500 ofcourse that is not the avarege prices.

I have a 105 Patriot. It cost me around $ 70. It has a gravity cup, double action. It came with a .5 tip/ needle/ nozzle but I found the other two online. There's a company which name escapes me right now that sells all of that stuff.

This conversation should be in airbrush, you'll get good advice there.

GMorrison

I have a 105 Patriot. It cost me around $ 70. It has a gravity cup, double action. It came with a .5 tip/ needle/ nozzle but I found the other two online. There's a company which name escapes me right now that sells all of that stuff.

 

This conversation should be in airbrush, you'll get good advice there.

 

thanks for your reply, but A YouTube video just convinced me so that I bought a badger soltar 20/20 dual action gravity flow via amazon for 90 dollars.

thanks for all the help you guys for introdicing me to these airbrush brands since I knew actually nothing about these airbrush topics. 

This badger soltar 20/20 is very good for precise work/lines and that is exactly what I was looking for. 

Hey that's great! Have fun with it.

I have the Badger Krome which comes with a second tip and needle in the same 0.21 mm size as the Sotar.  To test what it could do I drew some lines on a piece of scrap plastic with a 0.5mm technical pencil as a reference. I was able to lay down controlled lines of the same thickness. I found that using old school enamels thinned one to one gave best results because of the slower drying times.

GMorrison

Hey that's great! Have fun with it.

 

thanks I certainly will!!

Liegghio

I have the Badger Krome which comes with a second tip and needle in the same 0.21 mm size as the Sotar.  To test what it could do I drew some lines on a piece of scrap plastic with a 0.5mm technical pencil as a reference. I was able to lay down controlled lines of the same thickness. I found that using old school enamels thinned one to one gave best results because of the slower drying times.

 

what do you prefer: enamel or acrylic paints? I have Revell their enamel paints and tamiya their acrylic paints. 

I saw the badger chrome as well and I looked in to it but I went with the sotar.

DM

Great choise going with the Badger. It will last you an eternity, their customer service and lifetime warranty are exceptional. I own several Badgers with my first one purchased in the early 1970s and still working like brand new. 

Try them all. Each has its +/-.

In your part of the world, I would look for Humbrol enamels.

To me, the biggest factor is color. I dislike mixing colors unless forced to. For that reason I don't use Tamiya beyond the basics as they don't have a wide range of military colors.

I built Italian subjects for a spell, and White Ensign Models had great examples of all of the "mimeticos".

Now I have been building US Navy and I find the best colors come from Testor's Model Master.

The tread heads seem to really like Vallejo and Mission acrylics.

GMorrison

Try them all. Each has its +/-.

In your part of the world, I would look for Humbrol enamels.

To me, the biggest factor is color. I dislike mixing colors unless forced to. For that reason I don't use Tamiya beyond the basics as they don't have a wide range of military colors.

 

GM, if you like Tamiya then try AK Real paints. They are lacquer based acrylics like Tamiya and they have a really extensive FS and RLM lineup and even Japanese colors. I will be switching to them once my MM military enamels run out.

I love my Iwata Revolution. You can find one reasonably priced one on eBay. 

I use Harder and Steinbeck Evolution airbrush. It has drop in nozzles and needles. I have 0.2, 0.4 and 0.6 sizes. There is also a 0.15 I believe too. The 0.4 is my standard go to nozzle.

Be careful of the AK "Real" range. The colours are not authentic as they have applied their standard "scale correction" techniques. Also, some of the armour colours in the German WWII range were never used and are not in the RAL range of the period. These colours have come from misinterpreted and colourised photos and wrecks that have been exposed to the elements, oxidisation etc.

I got their RAL 7028 Dunkelgelb paints and variants to try and none of them came close to the original chipsets with one identified as a 1945 variant never existed!

still, I love my H&S airbrush.

Good to know snap about the AK colors. Funny how shades vary from one manufacturer to another. I found MM military enamels to be fairly close but unfortunately some  are being dropped.