All Canopies Must Die

I have ordered some Parafilm M but, I have used this method with GREAT success....

First off, you must have Novus plastic polish! I paint the canopy, by hand, with no masking. I let dry for about 15-20 minutes. I then dip my most pointy brush (I bought a special one for this chore) in thinner. Roll the brush on a paper towel to remove as much thinner as you can. Sort of like getting ready to dry brush. Then use it to "erase" the paint from outside the canopy lines.

Once all excess paint has been removed, I let dry for 30 minutes. I then wet a soft paper towel or toilet paper with Novus 1 and buff the canopy until it shines. Thinner cloudiness is gone and the canopy is ready to go.

I HIGHLY suggest trying this on a scrap canopy first. It's a matter of letting the paint get almost dry before erasing it.

For masking canopies.. there is only one solution.


Parafilm M.

My dad has never bothered with canopies, and he's perfectly happy with everything he makes. He doesn't put them in shows or anything, they're just for his own enjoyment (and mine too I guess).

There is one failsafe with canopies - once you've checked the fit is OK over your nicely detailed cockpit, instead of spending hours ruining it.............just pop it on.........works every time, i invaribly muck up on painting them so learnt this trick and in 1:72 at least, it really is worth considering........

I can't tell you how many times I've had the same experience. It's a good thing I don't drink...


Fade to Black...

Hi Garyfo All i can say is ...OUCH...thats gotta hurt...Greg

Not to one-up you Gregers...but mine is 1/144 scale.

Um...mines...smaller....um...than yours....

I'd love to build one of those myself actually.

Practice Practice Practice.

I have used tape, drafting tape, liquid mask and god for bid free hand(80% failure rate). Try any of mention techniques, which ever you like stick with it and mention above Practice. That bare metal foil technique sounds interesting though.
Good Luck,

Hi Garyfo. It could be worse you could be building the Italeri He111Z twice the canopy twice the u/c 2 1/2 times the engines 10 times more awsome. I would build another if i could find one at the right price...Greg

I feel your pain as I have the same issues with canopies...and my HE-111 is waiting to be masked this weekend...ugh.

You know...FSM could devote an ENTIRE ISSUE to this subject. They could get their different experts and contributors to show how they do it.

Hi there. you could try using bare metal foil cut into thin strips, painted, then stuck over the frame. you could then pick off chips of paint to simulate weathering....Gregers

To prevent paint leaks under the mask, I use simple "trick". It works fine for me. After masking and cutting, i apply clear coat (e.g. Tamiya X22) all over the canopy - it forms solid film. I then apply paint. After it dries, I cut (yes, again) along the frame and remove the mask. I haven't made lots of models, but up to now the coat of warnish under the paint didn't make any major problems. Well, on the other hand, clear coat can leak under the mask the same way as paint, but since it is CLEAR (and sometimes I intentionaly apply thiny coat of mentioned X22 on the canopy), it won't damage canopy. Now I hope that my english is good enough to explain everything clear enough

I find that what he initialy said is a good way to do canopies...Clay molded to hold it in place. The one thing he missed was that you have to cover the clay with plastic wrap/saran wrap so the canopy will not get the residue problems he spoke of.

Happy modeling

Tim,
I think James Mark has the right idea - use Bare Metal Foil.
I've used Scotch tape, Humbrol liquid mask, the peel off face mask that ladies use (it works), masking tape and just about every other bloody thing to cover up, but I've never gotten as good results with them as I have with Bare Metal Foil - the stuff is so easy to use and works so very well - I always get great results using the foil.
It's cheap and easy to apply and remove.
I always attach the canopy to the airframe before I paint (unless I model a sliding canopy that's open).
I already answered a question like this in another FSM forum, but if you want, email me and I'll send you a copy of detailed, step by step instructions on how to use the foil to mask canopies or windows.
Or, if you all want, I can just re-post it here - what would you like me to do?
Cheers,
LeeTree

Make asmall loop of masking tape, stick it INSIDE the canopy, then stick that to a length of sprue or a wooden dowel. Anything so long as it pretty much conforms to the shape of the plastic. You then have a handle and an internal support for your canopy. As for the masking; Use thin strips of Tamiya tape to mask along the edges of the frames and fill in the rest with more tape of your choice. Burnish down with a cocktail stick, a quick spray with clear varnish will further seal it.
Allow to dry, apply the colour for the inside of the frames, dry, and then the external colour, that should solve all your problems.

While reading your forum i got what seems like an perfect idea take a peice of styrafoam and cut it to fit under the canopy so it wont break. Hey try it it might work. Good Luck

i dont think there are any canopy masks for the 1/32 mig 19

I agree with Aleksander that the canopy should be glued into place on the model, with gaps filled as needed, then painted at the same time as the rest of the model. Many times models' canopies look like an afterthought , and in the actual aircraft, especially WWII bombers, they were simply portions of the aircraft structure which were glazed instead of being skinned with metal or fabric.

Well - I see we all have the same problems ! After trying many different methods to mask, I've discovered Eduard masks - they work great, they are easy to apply and peel off. I've learned that the best way to keep the canopy "in one piece" is to glue it to the fuselage just before masking and painting - by the way it close the cockpit and prevent it from overpaint. Regards! Aleksander

compound curve: i use paintermate green(thin) tape to mask,but it keeps drawing the paint onto the canopy and i must always sand it away and polish: i used half a can of polish

unnamedplayer,

what do you mean when you say your canopy wont mask, will tape not stick to it, or is the compound curve giving you problems. Let us know the specific problem and I'm sure somebody here can help you solve it.

my fav is migs: my mig 19 canopy wont mask, ive tried with everything except a liquid, i dont have some

John P: You hate canopies, but your favorite subject is WWII Luftwaffe. I can only handle one of those funny shaped, multi faceted canopys every now and then. My hat's off to you.

I hate canopies too. I especially hate painting framing. damn shame too, since my favorite subject is WWII German planes :D.

I've used Bare Metal foil with FANTASTIC results!!

All you need is foil, a toothpick, a steady hand (and enough guts to cut the foil while it's on the canopy)

I've just finished a FW190 canopy which was super thin and had barely any raised detail...I covered the entire canopy with foil...burnished down with a toothpick and the frame became very apparent...then with a BRAND NEW #11 blade I CAREFULLy cut out the frame....you do not need to press hard just jently go over the foil (the weight of the knife should be sufficient to cut...keep the blade angled in towards the frame....any slip ups will end up on the canopy and will need to be sanded..polished and futured! (basically a big pain in the @#$!!!!!

The only draw back I've had with this method is the foil leaves residue behind if left on for a length of time (I usually mask my canopy first when I'm painting the interiors so I can match interior paint on the inside of the canopy).....My canopy was futured before painting) so I just got a Q-tip with detergent and went to town...all the residue came off beautifully and the canopy looks gorgeous!

Bare metal foil can is farely inexepensive and can be found at any decent hobby shop

I use Eileen's Tacky Glue (water-based craft glue that is thicker than Elmer's school glue), and apply it liberally with a toothpick--especially in detail areas. Let it dry until it is "clear", then paint away. Once the paint is dry to the touch (typically thirty minutes to two hours), use a damp toothpick to pick-up the edges and carefully peel/pull away. This works really well for me, and (depending on how long the paint has set) rarely have to do touch-up work after removing the "glue mask."

I've done okay using Parafilm M by Testors to mask. You burnish it down with fingers, toothpicks and brush handles, cut to expose the frames with a curved X-Acto blade, paint, and peel with the edge of a toothpick to start it. It's especially useful on the 1/72 canopies. Handling is tricky, and sometimes the best bet is to get a Falcon or Squadron vacuform replacement for a cracked or distorted kit part.

What do y'all think of using foil to mask with?

I've read about it on the web...basically using foiling technicques...painting and then removing after it sets...

Not sure what kind of tack glue to use...wouldn't want it to become permananent..

Liquid masks are frequently a good option, but I prefer to mask with tape. I find I get a much straighter edge and if I make a mistake while cutting, it I can simply re-cut a new piece; I don't have to wait for more liquid mask to dry. I place my tape so it covers a section or pane of a window on the canopy. Then burnish the tape with a toothpick or burnishing tool. I next lightly and quicky move a pencil across the tape. It will pick up the outline of the window pane and give you a line/guide to cut . The cut piece of tape should fit exactly. Just re-burnish it after you place it on the canopy to keep paint from seeping underneath; also be sure to paint perpindicular to the surface to keep paint from getting under the tape. I use Tamiya tape, it sticks and re-sticks very well. Also I cut my masks of a piece of glass, the glass keeps you from cutting into your modeling surface and the tape wont loose its' tack on glass. A 8"x10" piece of glass is about two bucks at Home Depot.