COMPLETED: Mustang Mk.II, RAF No.2 squadron, 1/48 Acc Mini

IL2windhawk wrote:

So if I understand you correctly, I should trim away the antenna wires but leave the mast?  That would be quite easy to do, although admittedly I would like to leave the antenna wire!

Sorry, I missed this, first time round, but you're quite correct; keep the mast, but not the wires (any of them.)  For some reason, initially Mustang I, and Ia, airframes had the wires, but, by 1944, they were gone.  If you ever do a III, there was a whip aerial further aft (presumably to keep it out of the way of the Malcolm hood.

Edgar

 IL2 wrote

One thing I haven't mentioned yet is that I also built this model as a prelude to a larger project: an RC mustang of the same subject.  I'll be sure to bump the thread when I finally finish building it (maybe in a year!).  Building the model helped me sort out some of the details for the RC project.

I used to build and fly RC so do tell more about your RC P-51, what size, what kit ? Unfortunally I cant afford to buils the RC stuff anymore, but still love to hear about it all. I do have a small helicopter I chase the dog around the house with, course she turns around and chases it too.

Inquiring minds need to know.

Wow, wing_nut!  That is an great photo-edit!    It looks increadibly real: like it's flying over the English channel on a hazy day.  Thanks - that's my new desktop wallpaper!

And thanks to everyone for your comments and encouragement.  I really strived to improve my weathering skills on this bird, so it's nice that everyone has taken notice of that particular aspect.  Everything I've learned has come from right here, watching you guys and others on FSM and it's very rewarding to receive your compliments. 

I would have to agree with those who said a blurred prop would add alot.  I sorta wish I had installed a motor.  Unfortunately, the prop doesn't rotate freely enough to spin when exposed to a fan, so we'll have to settle for Wing_Nut's simulated wartime photo.

Edgar, I really appreciate your input from a historical standpoint.  Accuracy was another goal I strived for on this build.  So if I understand you correctly, I should trim away the antenna wires but leave the mast?  That would be quite easy to do, although admittedly I would like to leave the antenna wire!  LOL - it's a cool detail.  Would the RAF have retrofitted their allison mustangs with new radios?  I suppose that would be necessary to talk with other VHF radios.   

And the prop blades: that should be easy enough to rework.  Thanks for the other great tip.  There's a famous photo of Duane Beeson sitting in his P-51B that shows chipped paint all over the prop blades.  Unfortunately I've used this as a weathering reference for several builds!  Apparently this photo is the exception, not the norm.  It's a great photo anyways. http://www.acesofww2.com/Canada/aces/beeson.htm

Vetteman, I'd be glad to step you through my process for vac-canopies.  I estimate that my method is fairly unorthodox because I usually bond with CA glue (and accellerator to prevent fogging).  An important step is to make sure you buy two or three extra canopies before you start, LOL  Anyway, PM me and I'll be glad to explain the process. 

This canopy was unique in that it wrapped over part of the fuselage.  Although it involved some tricky cutting of the fuselage, I actually wish more vac-canopies were like this.  I suppose you would still have the option of trimming the vac part if you didn't want to cut the kit parts.

One thing I haven't mentioned yet is that I also built this model as a prelude to a larger project: an RC mustang of the same subject.  I'll be sure to bump the thread when I finally finish building it (maybe in a year!).  Building the model helped me sort out some of the details for the RC project.

IL2... That is just beautiful.  great story and some great poses.  I hope you don't mind butthere was one the really caught my eye and I just had to see how itlook really in flight.  i know what I think... how do you like it?

Nice to see a return to subtle weathering; my only comments are that, long before 1944, the RAF were using VHF radios, which only needed a short aerial, and that was contained, out of sight, inside the mast, and you'd never, normally, see weathered trailing edges of the prop blades.

Edgar

Your well written notes and model are OUTSTANDING!

Truly, a compelling and well executed MUSTANG! I can practically hear it whizzing through the air!

 Critique: not a one.

Beautifully built Mustang. The weathering is nice, and the vac canopy is really thin and clear - good choice there. The "razorback" models, and especially the Allison-engined variants, are my favorite Mustangs. Very nice job.

As to the control input discussion: if all the aircraft is performing is a turn, and not some specialized maneuver, then it goes:

Ailerons to turn the plane

Elevator back pressure to hold altitude, even if you're banking 60 degrees or more. A little throttle helps, too.

Rudder to keep the tail from slipping or skidding around - keep the tail following the nose, in other words. Large cross-controlled rudder inputs at high bank angles are generally a bad thing... that is, unless you're trying to spin.

New pilots very often forget to use their feet. It's one thing that I don't like about training in the Piper Cherokees my employer has - the Cherokee is so stable that you can get away with being lazy on the rudder 90% of the time. I really prefer teaching steep turns and stalls in a Cessna, because it's more likely to bite the pilot for a mistake - makes for a more effective lesson.

Kevin

Very nice work on the early Mustang.  The weather is very realistic.

Darwin, O.F. 

Excellent build and weathered to perfection. For me the plane looks like the pilot is making desperate attempts to find somewhere flat to lay her down, seeing as the prop isnt spinning

If ever there was a quality build that is crying out for a 'Prop blur' then this is it.

Gorgeous.

...Guy

Excellent build & display .  Thanks for sharing.

Regards,  Rick

IL2windhawk Nice build my friend ! To my eye the weathering couldn't be better. I am going to have to pick on you for your secret to that vacuformed canopy though as mine is giving me fits and I dont mean the good kind.

I do hafta put in my 2 cents worth at this point about the control surface deflections. A high yo yo is one manuver he could be doing, however I have used slipping turns to turn around a point on the ground to take pictures. The way I recovered from that was to add in oppisate rudder to push the nose back down then roll the wings back to level or just to continue the turn. I have also used slipping turns to lose alitude if a little high on aproach for landing. This trick works really on no flap planes like a cub or cessna 120, have to kick some opisate rudder to strighten that bird out.

HK at low airspeeds thats a perfect setup for a spin, at high speeds you gonna snaproll that bad boy.

Thanks for your comments and suggestions.

To answer Razor's question, I mounted this plane much the same as my other builds: by filling the fuselage with balsa and saturating with thin-CA.  I've written extensively about this technique in the thread below, with photos of this same model as a work-in-progress.  Let me know if you have any questions, and I'd be glad to assist.
/forums/1068904/ShowPost.aspx

For the record regarding the control surfaces, I originally built the model with the intent of mounting the aircraft in a more-docile banking turn (sorta like in the last photo).  Then as the build approached its end, I decided to really tilt the orientation as if the pilot was lining up for a recon photo.  I read that pilots would circle their target at ~9,000 ft taking photos.  To that aim, I think hkshooter is probably right: the rudder should be swung in the opposite direction for the aircraft to maintain altitude in the turn.   I suppose the pilot could be yawing the aircraft to make an adjustment for the photo, or just setting up the run.

But having studied the model a little bit more, I think the flight scenario that best fits is an immenent banking & pitching maneuver into a steep dive.  Rather like the pilot is at the peak of a 'high yo-yo' maneuver: relatively slow and using left rudder to coordinate his turn so he can bounce a FockeWulf below!   Ahhh.... time to go play some IL2 online.

Thanks for the suggestions and input.  This is why I invite criticism: I always learn something worthwhile.

Windhawk, nice model, nice description, and nice display concept.  It would be neat if it were mortorized, maybe I should rent you my granddaughter who supplies the windpower for my spinning prop pictures.

HK, what you describe is a snap roll, and it is not allowed in a Mustang, or any other high performance aircraft, save those built especially for it, like the Extra 300, Pitts Special, and that sort.  The snap roll is an accelerated stall, meaning a stall done in excess of 1G, usually at 2G's in most aircraft.  In an aircraft with a higher stall speed such as a Mustang, the forces are too extreme on the airframe, most particularly the tail, so they are prohibited. 

Proper use of the rudder is one of the most difficult things to teach a new pilot.  In Windhawk's pose, in my opinion it is believable for a slow airspeed maneuvering turn, in the transition from level flight to the final bank angle.  Perhaps the elevator is up a bit more than in might be, and maybe the rudder is over a bit more than it might be, but not too much.  Then again the airplane might have just flown through some turbulence and anything goes, especialy at lower speeds. 

When I would use rudder opposite the aileron would be in a slip to a landing, knife edge flight, or a snap roll. 

Awesome model, great back story. I really like the possable stand, nice touch. Very well built and I like the way the vac lid turned out. Takes a lot of patience and skill to make those vac parts look that good.

On a technical note, depending on how fast the pilot wanted to roll the airplane, he may have cross controlled the plane, stick in one corner of the cockpit, rudders in the opposite corner. In other words your rudder should be deflected in the other direction to coincide with the deflection of the aielerons. It's violent roll, to be sure. Great way to bounce the passengers head off the canopy if you don't warn him first.

Under more sedate conditions, in a turn like you have indicated on the aielerons, the rudder now acts as the elevator and again needs opposite deflection to keep the nose up. In a turn the wings lose lift perpendicular to the ground and the a/c will lose altitude. Right rudder keeps the nose up and helps maintain altitude. 

I hope my mumbling made sense. Very nice model! Looking forward to seeing more or your rarely seen work.