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Scratched WW2 pilot seat.....pic heavy

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  • Member since
    January 2012
  • From: Belgium, EU
Posted by Ninetalis on Tuesday, April 17, 2012 4:13 PM

Now I feel stupid for never thinking about using a can as a Scratch build part,
Nice how to man, I am really going to use this, especially when I have my drill!

WIth regards, Ninetalis!

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, April 16, 2012 6:50 AM

WOW---great toot!Indifferent

  • Member since
    January 2009
  • From: hamburg michigan
Posted by fermis on Friday, June 18, 2010 7:08 AM

Hans von Hammer

Up to it, Fermis?

 

Sure!!!

  • Member since
    June 2008
  • From: Iowa
Posted by Hans von Hammer on Friday, June 18, 2010 6:25 AM

echolmberg

 I wish we could see more "how-to's" as clear and simple as this.

Eric

Stay tuned... I've a few WIPs that I'll be posting regarding my own scratchbuilding materials & techniques... Between me & Fermis, maybe we'll get some of you to save money on the after-market parts here & there...

Up to it, Fermis?

  • Member since
    January 2009
  • From: hamburg michigan
Posted by fermis on Thursday, June 17, 2010 8:21 PM

Thanks again everybodyToastToastToast

Glad to share...and save everybody a few bucks!!!

  • Member since
    January 2015
  • From: Katy, TX
Posted by Aggieman on Thursday, June 17, 2010 8:07 PM

Awesome work and thanks for the tip.  This is the kind of so-called "outside the box" thinking that I find most rewarding in being a member of this site (I say so-called because I don't really believe in a box, per se, but rather that everyone has their own box, just differently sized). 

  • Member since
    September 2006
  • From: Bethlehem PA
Posted by the Baron on Wednesday, June 16, 2010 11:37 AM

Excellent SBS, Fermis, thanks!  I saw your seats over on your build blog thread and wondered about your exact steps.  That helps me figure out how to do this for some F4B-4 and F11C seats that I want to make.  You've made it very clear.

My stock of choice, though, is a couple of Guinness cans that I cut apart to get at the widget inside Wink

The bigger the government, the smaller the citizen.

 

 

  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Green Bay, WI USA
Posted by echolmberg on Wednesday, June 16, 2010 10:03 AM

Amazinng tip!  That was so awesome showing us how to actually do it.  It is very much appreciated and I wish we could see more "how-to's" as clear and simple as this.

Thank you again!

Eric

  • Member since
    June 2008
  • From: Iowa
Posted by Hans von Hammer on Wednesday, June 16, 2010 7:47 AM

FWIW,  I'd use the foil cup from a tea light vs an aluminium can... It's heavy enough to take the work and maleable enough to cut & form easily...

  • Member since
    October 2009
  • From: South Carolina
Posted by jetmodeler on Wednesday, June 16, 2010 6:16 AM

Thanks for sharing. I never even thought about using an aluminum can. I'm definatly going to try this one.

 

  • Member since
    January 2009
  • From: hamburg michigan
Posted by fermis on Wednesday, June 16, 2010 5:05 AM

Thanks everybody for the compliments, much appretiated. All too happy to share!!!

 

jschlechty

Great how-to post and excellent photos to go with it!  Thank you very much!

Doe one have to use "Arizona Tea" cans for this project?  Do you think Bud cans would work as a replacement?Smile

 I think that pop/beer can aluminum is a bit thinner than the tea can is, may make it a bit more difficult to work with. May have to take a little more care in handling to avoid slices in fingers.

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: South Central Wisconsin
Posted by Daywalker on Tuesday, June 15, 2010 10:22 PM

Thanks for that toot Fermis, loved it!  I tried a similar technique a while back, admittedly more difficult and still didn't look half as good as yours.  I'll be using your technique on my next project.

Frank 

 

  • Member since
    December 2009
  • From: Fort Worth, Texas
Posted by FastEagle1 on Tuesday, June 15, 2010 8:24 PM

Fermis,

I applaud your ingenuity and thank you for sharing your technique.  Yours are among the finest looking seats I've seen, aftermarket or otherwise.

Great work brother and thanks for sharing.

  • Member since
    September 2005
  • From: Illinois: Hive of Scum and Villany
Posted by Sprue-ce Goose on Tuesday, June 15, 2010 8:21 PM

excellent !!!!

  • Member since
    January 2004
  • From: Newnan, GA
Posted by benzdoc on Tuesday, June 15, 2010 8:17 PM

Very impressive Fermis! Sometimes I get the feeling that if I try to scratchbuild something, it won't be as good as an aftermarket part - however in this case you've done the cottage industries one better!

Thanks for the how to and the encouragement!

 

  • Member since
    October 2004
  • From: Mesa, AZ
Posted by jschlechty on Tuesday, June 15, 2010 7:27 PM

Great how-to post and excellent photos to go with it!  Thank you very much!

Doe one have to use "Arizona Tea" cans for this project?  Do you think Bud cans would work as a replacement?Smile

  • Member since
    September 2009
  • From: Frisco, TX
Posted by B17Pilot on Tuesday, June 15, 2010 11:23 AM

Ditto

  

  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: A Spartan in the Wolverine State
Posted by rjkplasticmod on Tuesday, June 15, 2010 11:12 AM

Excellent bit of scratching.  Thanks for sharing.

Regards,  Rick

RICK At My Age, I've Seen It All, Done It All, But I Don't Remember It All...
  • Member since
    June 2008
  • From: Iowa
Posted by Hans von Hammer on Tuesday, June 15, 2010 10:59 AM

Great "How-To", man...  

  • Member since
    January 2009
  • From: hamburg michigan
Scratched WW2 pilot seat.....pic heavy
Posted by fermis on Tuesday, June 15, 2010 10:53 AM

 Here's a "How I done it", with the seats on my TBD.

Shape may differ from craft to craft, (squared vs. rounded seat back and so forth), but the idea will work for many.

Not liking the clunky looks of the kit supplied seats, not wanting to spend any more money, or wait on the postal service, I decided to make my own. For $.99, I got a big ole can of delicious Arizona tea, and a LOT of aluminum, the medium of choice for this project.

 I'll take you step by step through, how I done it.

1. Cut out a length of the alum, trimmed to width with a straight edge and new #11. I used the kit part to eyeball the width (close counts in horseshoes, hand grenades and scale modeling!!!)

006-1.jpg picture by fermisb

2. I clipped the corners (top portion of seat back), by pressing the blade down (guillotine style) on the alum. against my glass work surface. This is just to lessen the amount of grinding.

007-1.jpg

3. With a grinding bit in the Dremel, I rounded off the corners.

008-1.jpg

4. Using the handle of my knife, I rolled the seatback around it, to get the contour.

009-1.jpg

5. I then lightly scored the back, to make the bend for the seatpan easier.

010.jpg

6. bend to shape.

011.jpg

7. Cut the seatpan just a hair longer than you want the final length to be. (again, all cuts are made guillotine style against glass)

012.jpg

8. To bend the front of the seatpan, I pressed it against a brush handle.

013.jpg

014.jpg

9. This will be the rounded piece that goes at the bottom of the seatback. Cut out of the original piece of alum., so you know the width will be perfect. The notches are carefully cut out.

015.jpg

10. Using a needle/pinvice, I poked "rivets" along the edges.

016.jpg

11. A bit of CA (with my handy stretched sprue applicator) along the edges.

017.jpg

12. Put in place.

018.jpg

 

Now for the sidewalls.

13. Using the seat as a template, cut the angles to match the seatpan and backrest. Cut these a tad oversized for glue tabs.

019.jpg

14. Using the first side as a template, cut the opposite side.

020.jpg

15. The outside is lightly scored where the bend will be, then bend in the glue tabs.

021.jpg

16. CA into place.

022.jpg

17. Once both sides are in place, allow a few minutes for the CA to dry. Using a heavy grinding/sanding wheel in the Dremel, grind out the rough shape.

*******WARNING******** Wear some safety glasses, this part WILL (more than likely) leave your finger at least once, on account of having to use a light grip. Mine disappeared three times!!!

023.jpg

18. Using a fine grinding bit, grind out the final shape. I did one side first, then "eyeballed" for the other.

024.jpg

19. Paint and "weather" as you would with any other seat. Mounting frames can be scratched with rod, stretched sprue, or kit parts if provided.

 

025.jpg

Hope this can help any of you out!!!

 

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