The infamous 1/48 Chrome Tamiya P-51D build in progress...

It should work Joe.  I used Simple Green to remove the chrome plating from my Tamiya MiG-15.  iirc, I let it soak for a day or two, and seems like I used an old toothbrush to "help" it along.  Good luck!  Like you said, I couldn't see how a modeler could build one of these without needing some seam work somewhere and then your chrome would be toast.  Besides,  a "chromy"  Mustang?  What's up with that?

Gary

Texgunner

  Besides,  a "chromy"  Mustang?  What's up with that?

Gary

Simple Green should work fine. Give it about 2-3 days, then all it'll need is a light scrubbing and a really good rinse. I went that route on my 1/12 Tamiya Virago before it got the Alclad II treatment.

Soaking it in Windex for a day or two will also dissolve the chrome plating- I've done it and it works well.  I don't understand why anyone would build a chrome plated kit.  I think the statement that they are meant for kids who aren't going to worry about filling seams, etc. is the answer.

Maybe if you used a cat litter pan with a pinch of cat widdle added to the Simple Green it would help it along! ;<)  I've also heard of using brake fluid to remove chrome.  But you're probably on the right course with less drastic methods.  Good luck, and I hope everything turns out well.

With best regards.

Stephen

409 cleaner is great for removing chrome and fun to watch it dissolve off the plastic.

Hello folks.  I'm stopping in for an update.  The Simple Green worked great after a three day soak.  All it took was an old  toothbrush to get the milky yellow goo off the parts after the chrome dissolved.  The "goo" must be some barrier between the chrome and plastic.  Interestingly though, the two main sprues were two different tones of grey plastic.  One was a tanish grey and the other the normal Tamiya-like light grey.  I would have taken some pics of the process, but a lot of the parts dislodged off the sprues when I scrubbed them.  I started painting the cockpit and True Details seat, but then switched gears to the wings guns. 

A week or so ago, I was checking out Doog's Blog and saw the tutorial for replacing the 50 cals with brass tubing.   I concur with Doogs that the kit examples are cp....er atrocious and up until now, I have been carving out the kits pathetic examples and replacing them with Quickboost 50's. I would then just drill out the inboards which were visually different than the outboard 50's.  I believe this was because the weapon itself sat further into the wing.  It seemed that Doogs' idea of using Albion Alloys brass tubing would be more cost effective, and would finally address the inboard gun issue.  I ordered the tubing from Sprue Brothers, the multi pack "slide fit" packaging, and gave it a try.  I drilled out the kit guns then glued together and sanded the wing edges, paying the most attention to the gun area(s).  I left the trailing edges unglued for strategic reasons.  I then used the 1.0 and inserted the .8 mm size inside.  I loosely followed Doog's instructions and was speechless (rare) on how good it looked.  It took some test fitting and I ended up pushing a few too far in, but since I left the trailing edge unglued, I could push the piece all the way out to bounce harmlessly on the bench and try again.  One in position, I spot super glued them in place (a little glue on the tip of an Exacto).  Once it was all said and done, I could not figure out why I didn't think of this myself.  Just another reason why joining this forum and getting ideas from others has made me a better modeler.  I even used some of the .8 mm tubing to fabricate wing root cannons on my recently completed FW 190.  I'll get to the cockpit soon.  Here's a few pics. 

....and thanks Doogs, this one will stay in my bag of tricks.

Joe

Looking forward to the build, but I kinda wish someone would tackle the build with chrome on. I'm sure one the uber-builders on this board could knock one out of the park.

Good luck on this one lawdog, I'm sure you'll get it done.

On a side note, just how did the geniuses think that a pre-chrome plated kit was to be "corrected" when the inevitable blemish occurs during assembly?

I have always wondered if this kit was related to the TESTORS chrome plated- 1/48 scale version? does anyone remember that kit?   TANKER-builder

Speaking of chrome. I just "dechromed" a Spitfire. I used a very diluted mix of household muriatic acid and water. It was a very diluted mixture because I was afraid it might eat into the plastic as well. But eureka! it worked! Now the parts are showing more detail hidden before by the chrome.

Yes, Tamiya has come out with a chrome plated version of their new 1/32 P-51D Mustang, and added about $60 to the price of the un-plated one, which is a fine kit.  I cannot imagine why anyone would want a chrome plated version.  I guess Tamiya figures "there's one born every minute", as P. T. Barnum said long ago!

tankerbuilder

I have always wondered if this kit was related to the TESTORS chrome plated- 1/48 scale version? does anyone remember that kit?   TANKER-builder

I've got two in the stash.. One Testor's and one Hawk.. The Testors is actually an ex-Hawk kit, they're identical kits.. (Stay tuned for a "Chromed HAWK P-51D Build", coming soon to an Aircraft forum Near You!)

I also have several of the other "Chrome" aircraft kits that HAWK/Testors released.. T-33A, F8F, F-84, P-47D, and theLysander....

The trick to building the chromed kits is is to scrape the chrome plating off the edges to be joined with your X-Acto Knife, or use some sandpaper (sandinf the edges also makes a better bond/weld)... Or, if you get lazy, use CA.. It'll stick metal-to-metal... Model cement won't.. That's why you scrape.. Car modlers have known this for years and years, dealing with chrome parts in every kit, practically..

Any touch-up can be done with Krylon's  "Premium Silver Foil Metallic" rattle-can... It's the absolute BEST spray paint "chrome" or "Polished Aluminum" I've ever seen...

But, and FWIW to anyone, very few operational Mustangs were ever polished... They came from the factory with clear laquer on the skin-panels and for the fabric-covered surfaces,  aluminum paint went on, per "Tech Order AN 01-60JE-2- Finish Specifications,  P-51D Erection and Maintenance Manual, 25 April 44 (Revised OCT 44)"...

The T.O. also covers all interior surfaces, and leaves any and all paint refs as to cockpit colors from instruction sheets (and a LOT other books, as well as a LOT of posts in here on the subject) null and void...

I think a highly polshed (chrome) aircraft is only appropiate for a warbird. So I can understand why one would like the de-chrome such a kit.

As for the guns, they look great!

Hello all.  I'm in for a brief update.  Work has kept me from the bench but I did manage to get some modeling in last night, primarily the cockpit.  I used the superb True Details seat and some Eduard PE on the cockpit, mostly the floor pieces, the trim wheel, side wall pieces, and then the instrument panel.  I have mixed feelings on the IP, for I don't feel its better than the kit part detail-wise.  Furthermore, I found that it was tough to get the paint to stick to the etched metal and it was difficult to drybrush for the same reason.  Perhaps I should have primed it first or went with the color zoom stuff.  If the kit would have supplied an IP decal I would have likely use it instead.  To add some interest to what I considered a boring IP, I added that yellow line that runs between the gauges seen on some P-51s.  I have no idea what it was there for (anyone know?), but I made it out of slivers of Tamiya tape.  I think it looks ok, albeit a little oversized.    

I was at my LHS last week and the curmudgeon owner kind of got snooty with me when I inquired about Gunze Paint (touchy subject?).  Maybe its just my experience, but it amazes me that some of these guys can't work on their interpersonal skills considering the LHS is becoming an endangered species thanks to the likes of Sprue Brothers, Squadron, etc.  Unfortunately its the only one around so I'm kind of stuck with the tool when I need something immediately.  Anyways, one of his more personable employees then tried to sell me on Vallejo Air paints.  Being one who is always open to trying new things, he did succeed in getting me to try their example of interior green to see how I liked it.  I bought the thinner just in case and a bottle of Vallejo's dark acrylic wash as well.  I wanted to see how the latter compared to my usual wash method, consisting of "The Detailer" pre-mixed wash.

The cockpit was painted with the Vallejo Air Interior Green.  I thought it looked thick so I thinned it slightly.  The thinner was milky and seemed to change the color slightly.   So were already off to a bad start, but I pressed on.  On application, I found the paint to be thick and tended to clog my airbrush.  I did eventually get it thinned enough to get the pit painted.  I painted the rest of the details with Tamiya paints.  The P-51 had a rubber coating on the fuel tank so this was painted RLM 66 to simulate rubber.  I then ran some solder to the battery.  The seat, the floor (in Khaki and Clear Orange to simulate wood) was then painted and it was all sealed with Testors clear coat.  Once dry, I then tried the Vallejo wash.  Well.......any one familiar with the term if it ain't broke don't fix it? Well, this stuff looked good when applied, but when it dried it was almost impossible to remove!.  It left unsightly brown splotches everywhere.  Fortunately it wasn't fully dry when I removed it from the floor and seat so it wasn't too bad here, however, the sidewalls weren't so lucky.  They look like s.  I almost started over here, but since they can't be readily seen on the finished product, I decided to leave them be.  Verdict?...I'll heed my own advice and stick with my normal cockpit process.....if it ain't broke, don't fix it!......  Here's some pics. 

Joe

lawdog, I'd say beginning with the seat and aft it looks very good.  It's a little hard to tell from pics on the IP but it seems fine too.  I'd say the floor is the softest point but..... it's a floor, so it won't be seen anywho.  Nice work and stick with it!

Pit looks great!

lawdog114

  To add some interest to what I considered a boring IP, I added that yellow line that runs between the gauges seen on some P-51s.  I have no idea what it was there for (anyone know?),  

It's there to seperate the "six pack"...(the main flying instruments...1. airspeed indicator 2. directional gyro (compass) 3. artificial horizon 4. altimeter 5. turn coordinator 6. vertical speed indicator)

Thanks Fermis, I always wondered what that was for.  Hopefully not a post war phenomenon. 

It took me all of ten minutes to get to this point.  I'm exaggerating of course, but it was under an hour and this kit is certainly the "therapy" I needed.  I didn't even have any trouble with the lower intake area which I have in the past.  I did discover on the waste gate area (albeit to late for the interior) that the Vallejo wash comes off with 91% iso alcohol on a Q-tip.  Oh well...I'll still stick with The Detailer.  Time to decide a scheme.  Its a toss up between John England's 357th FG bird Missouri Armada or Urban Drew's 361st FG Detroit Miss. I will likely built th Armada since I already have the decals. 

Joe

Hello folks.  I figured I would drop in for an update.  I did decide on John England's "Missouri Armada" of the 357th FG.  I have three reasons. The first, I've never built a P-51 that wasn't a natural metal finish. I know, this is usually the opposite with modelers who tend to shy away from NMF.  Believe it or not, I actually enjoy them, especially after discovering Alclad II.  The second reason? I happen to be a huge fan of the 357th FG, having built Chuck Yeager's and Bud Anderson's birds in the past.  The third, well... I already have Eagle Cal's sheet with England's bird on it. 

Whenever possible, I paint ID markings, such as nose checkers or ID/invasion stripes.  I've done this on previous 357th planes (one on commission) and was pleased on how it turned out.  It just looks more realistic to me and the area is that much easier to weather later by means of a panel line wash.  On the Armada, I started by painting the nose and prop hub in Tamiya flat red. I then used the Eagle Cal checker nose strip as reference and cut out squares in Tamiya tape afixed to an old mirror.  After a bit of fiddlling to get them shaped right, they were placed down according to the reference profile supplied by Eagle Cal.  Its not perfect, but I suppose there weren't perfect on the real aircraft either.  I then sprayed Tamiya flat yellow.  I will reluctantly use a yellow spinner decal I have from another Eagle Strike sheet.  I'm man enough to admit I'm just not savvy in taping off the 357th FG prop stripe.  I've tried in the past and failed, always coming out looking ridiculous.  Any suggestions here folks? 

After taping off the nose checkers, I then tackled the lower fuselage invasion stripes by painting the general area Tamiya flat white then taping off the white stripes by using the kit decal as a width reference, which came out to roughly 3/8th of an inch in width.  The "open" stripes were then sprayed Tamiya flat black.  Once the stripes were complete, I remove all inner tape,but left the outer tape in place to outline where the stripes start and end.  The area was then taped to be removed later after the paint scheme is completed. 

My research indicates that 357th birds were painted in RAF colors, since these were apparently readily available.  Its also been argued that some were done in Olive Drab and Neutral Grey.  The first sounds more logical to me since they were reportedly painted in Yoxford.  I've seem pictures of Armada and the green does seem to be quite dark.  I decided on Tamiya's version of RAF Dark Green (XF83) over Medium Sea Grey (XF81) which I previously bought for a Spitfire Mk IX.  I'm told these are new to the market, released on the heels of their 1/32nd scale Spitfire.  Hopefully Tamiya keeps this trend going....some new Luftwaffe subjects?.......one could only wish.    

I sealed the gear bays with the kit parts (convenient) and then sprayed the lower surface with the Medium Sea Grey.  Tamiya paint is like silk when cut with their lacquer thinner.  I will never revert back to 91% Iso for my main paint schemes.  On small stuff, its still economically feasible to use Alcohol though.  That thinner is expensive.  This was then lightened with white, thinned and streaked.  Once done, I dirtied it up with a diluted mix of Tamiya red brown and NATO black.  I keep this concoction premixed in a glass bottle since I use it a lot.   Here's some pics of the completed lower surface.  I hope to get to the RAF green upper in the next few days. 

Joe 

lawdog114

... I've heard of people using anything from oven cleaner to bleach.  I've also heard of less caustic options, such as cleaner/degreaser(s) like Super Clean and 409 like applications.  I decided to go with an all purpose cleaner/degreaser called "Simple Green", which I got at Wal-Mart for $6.00.  I figured it would work too.  I put the sprues into an old cat litter container (clean of course) to soak for a few days.  Stay tuned for an update on whether this was successful.     

I'm just getting caught up on your thread, and I'm enjoying it.  But I had to offer my mustard, as the Germans say, that is to say, my two cents.  I switched to using Super Clean, after a buddy at Agape Models did this very same build and used SC to strip the chrome.  I had been using oven cleaner before then, but I bot a jug of SC and tried it on the chromed frets in the Monogram Red Baron hot rod kit.  Took the chrome off in 2 minutes flat.  It does take a little longer to remove paint, and I'll let pieces soak for 10 to 20 minutes while I work on something else.  But then everything comes off, very easily, using an old toothbrush and toothpicks to scrub off the softened/dissolved paint.

I also like it, because you can fill a jar or jars of various sizes and shapes to use as baths for parts, and use the same batch of SC over and over again.  That was a big plus for me, over oven cleaner, which is basically once-and-done.  SC is also far less caustic, and though I do wear household cleaning gloves when working with it, I have also picked up parts out of the bath, with my bare hands, and had no ill effects.  I do work in a sink with water running, though.

I don't know about Super Green from my own use, but I have read enough build blogs of guys who describe it working pretty much like Super Clean, too, though, your mileage may vary.  But I use SC now to strip paint and chrome from model parts, from metal figures, and I also keep a small jar on the bench, along with mineral spirits, lacquer thinner, water and isopropyl, for cleaning brushes, and I also use it to clean my airbrush, depending on the paint I've sprayed.

Best regards,

Brad

And now, having read the whole thread, may I say, great progress!  I really like how you did the markings.  I look forward to your progess.

Cool model!

Looks great Joe, painting those checkers is no easy task but BOY does it make a difference over decal!

Additionally, how do you think using a dacal for prop spinner is going to match up with the painted checker?

Thanks for the compliments guys. Reference the spinner and checkers, I checked to make sure the yellow paint matched the decal.  If there would have been a noticeable difference, I would have altered the paint to match accordingly. Reference painting the stripe, I've tried the thin Tamiya tape approach with a previous build, I just couldn't get it concentric and it kept coming out lopsided.  Professor, I am however intrigued by the circle template idea.  Perhaps I could use it as a guide to cut Tamiya tape. 

I sprayed the upper surface with Tamiya XF-81 (RAF Dark Green).  I thought it looked great right from the bottle.  It was then cut with Tamiya Buff and thinned for the streak technique I used on the lower surface.  I also lighted the rudder as well to match some pics I've seen of painted wartime '51's.  A different type of metal used?  Fabric covered?  Got me....but it looks good and adds interest.  After being sprayed with Alclad II gloss coat, I let it cure for a day to await decals. 

I had a marathon decaling session last night.  They're a mixture of Eagle Cal for the Armada and Aeromaster which both went on problem free with the use of Micro Sol.  I used the kit shrouded exhausts which I drilled out, painted, then added at this stage.  A word on my exhaust technique, it consists of painting them black to shadow the crevices.  I then go over it with Tamiya red brown to simulate rust.  Its then dry brushed with Testor's chrome silver (enamel) and followed up with the Detailer wash.  It seems like a lot of work but in reality it only takes a few minutes and adds so much more dimension to the finished look.  I have since moved on to the fiddly bits, such as landing gears and drop tanks.  It shouldn't be too long now. 

Joe

Me like lawdog, your "streak technique" is always impressive, great job!

The novelty chrome plated mustang is finally finished and out of my stash.  Its in the markings of Missouri Armada, John England's mount from around autumn of 1944.  England was credited with 17.5 enemy aircraft destroyed in the air.  He was apparently modest too, since he credited most of the kills to the new K-14 gunsight, not his marksmanship. 

As always, I find these Tamiya P-51s to be enjoyable stress free builds.  Its definitely in my top five kits, right up there with the 1/48 Tamiya Jug and Hasegawa Bf 109 series.  As I said earlier, there is room for improvement.  In addition to the True Detail seat, I added Ultracast "block" tread wheels which I think add a little more interest and weather up nicely.  I also added a Squadron canopy (sliding part).  Scratchbuilding consisted of the already mentioned brass micro tubing machine gun replacement,  solder on the gear legs for brake lines, and drop tank plumbing.  I plan to enter it in the Cleveland model show on November 4th to see if it will place.  Its been several years since I've participated in a contest so wish me luck (I've tried to allieviate the mistakes that the pen light police look for....but we'll see).  Thanks for following this thread and here are some pics of the finished product.  Comments always welcome.

Joe

That is one fine looking build!!!!

How did you mask/paint the spinner? It looks unreal!

Wish you hadn't deleted all the other pics.. It kinda shoots down the reference-value of the thread quite a bit..

If it's a file-size issue on your photo-hosting site, upload them as jpegs... 

That is one gorgeous build!