Hey Surge,

As allways amazing work!
I never knew Revell made these and that's some crazy story about that shipping container lol.

I see you try to make curved corners on those windows,
Maybe you allready know but I've seen a nice technique to achieve this!
You should paste your tape onto something and then use a little hole puncher (punch and die set) and then you can get some nice even curves, just wanted to let you know!

anyway, it is indeed very quiet in here, hope it will become better during winter,
with regards, Ninetalis.

I have several of the Tonys and Raidens, but I didn't know they even made this one.  I am sure yours will look great when done.  Looks like the wing tip shrank a little there.

@ Ninetalis;  I have been looking for such device but I've never seen one...... I have a "gaten-tang" (  Dutch for pliers to make holes in leather, belts etc.) but I find it easier to use a paperpunch of a flower, punch several out of maskingtape and cut the leafs off. And use them for the corners. ( a part of such flower can be seen in  the pic.)

She's comming along nice. I have two of these in 1/48 I havent yet tackled.

I think that only the 1/32 Raiden molds were "lost"...   Tend to believe that since I've seen a number of Tonys and Georges go for around 30-40 bucks, and around 50-100.00 for collector-kit prices but the Jack, whenever it makes a RARE Ebay appearance, quickly shoots up well past 175.00, and can't even be found at Old Model Kits DOT com...

Hans von Hammer

I think that only the 1/32 Raiden molds were "lost"...   Tend to believe that since I've seen a number of Tonys and Georges go for around 30-40 bucks, and around 50-100.00 for collector-kit prices but the Jack, whenever it makes a RARE Ebay appearance, quickly shoots up well past 175.00, and can't even be found at Old Model Kits DOT com...

If only the Raiden molds were lost....why aren't there any reissues of the Georges and Tony's after the early 1980's?  Like Revell did with  their Mustangs, Spitfires etc......

I'm looking on e-bay almost everyday for ( japanese WW2 ) kits but I have never seen the Revell 1:32 scale Kawanishi N1K1 Shiden for a starting bid less than $130,- 

the Revell Raiden, I had one a couple of years ago, paid €80,-  on e-bay with shipping. ( wrecked it when I tried straightening the warped wing with hot water , see:

http://plakkers-inc.nl/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=804  )

And since Hasegawa released their Raiden the Revell ones are sold a lot cheaper. I have seen a couple with starting bids around the $15,-

I just read the Raiden topic in link. Using boiling water an a warped wing was not such a good idea (or, as princess Maxima says "een beetje dom"). But you found that one out the hard way. I hope this build wil go better.  

@ Borg;  I've done it before and got away with it!

But that kit was made of a different kind of plastic. (Even the primer burnt into the plastic and dissolving the rivets.....)

The Hasegawa 1/32's can be found for very good prices on ebay. I'm currently watching two, ones a buy it now. I wonder if it's the same mold as revell.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hasegawa-Japanese-Kawanishi-George-N1K1-Ja-Shiden-Type-11-Koh-model-kit-1-48-/221116152221?pt=Model_Kit_US&hash=item337b8cb99d

spiralcity

The Hasegawa 1/32's can be found for very good prices on ebay. I'm currently watching two, ones a buy it now. I wonder if it's the same mold as revell.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hasegawa-Japanese-Kawanishi-George-N1K1-Ja-Shiden-Type-11-Koh-model-kit-1-48-/221116152221?pt=Model_Kit_US&hash=item337b8cb99d

I have buid the Hasegwawa Raiden too, it's not the same as the Revell one, 

it's here on Finescale see;

http://cs.finescale.com/fsm/modeling_subjects/f/2/t/148675.aspx

Just noticed that your link shows a 1:48 scale  Shiden kit ......

Not much happened lately....I'm a very slow builder and I'm always surprised when people build a couple of planes in the same time that I build only one....
But here is an update;

After I sprayed some primer, I sprayed the preshade, the yellow for the IFF (Tamiya yellow with a drop of red) and the red for the Hinomarus (which is is sprayed on a base coat of yellow). Then I sprayed the panels with blue. To get a blueish sheen to the green. But this was all for nothing because the green completly covered the blue afterwards.

I masked the hinomarus and the IFF with tape. And sprayed the bottom ( Tamiya IJN Grey) and the top (Tamiya IJN Green).After that it is postshaded with the green diluted with a lighter colour of green.And sprayed the edges of the panels again with a mix of IJN green with a few drops of flat black.
When I peeled the masks off the Hinomarus the paint came off and so I had to respray them.
First with yellow and then with red.

After the re-spray;

I have sprayed a gloss clear coat over the plane and put the decals (tailcode and data) on it. This went very well on the left side after a load of Microsol and Revell decal-softener. The right side shows some silvering. Left it that way because when I would remove the decals I think I had to sand and respray the kit, like I had to do with my Raiden.

Have replaced the guns with thin copper tubing and made a pitottube of a coppertube and a sewing needle.
Started with the chipping, used Revell silver and a few tints of Revell green and Tamiya acrylics.

Have to do some work on the chips on the midsection of the fuselage, the chips are not what I hoped for.
Then I put on some washes. A couple of days and then it's finished......

Bis zum nächsten mal!

As usual beautiful work there PS! And of my favorite Japanese aircraft no less. Strange about the paint peeling up on the hinomaru but great job on fixing it. Love how the chipping came out.

Btw: I'm starting up Imperial Japanese Group Build Part ll on New Year's Day - would love to have you if you have the time.

Watching one Revell Raiden on Ebay right now with a "Buy it Now" of 79.97.. Don't want it THAT bad..

Plastic-surgeon

 

 

 

 

 

 

Have replaced the guns with thin copper tubing and made a pitottube of a coppertube and a sewing needle.

 

 

Question for you (and others) what do you cut the brass tubing with to get a nice clean line (without spurs and crimping?

BTW: The build is looking great.

Try a brand new #11 blade and roll the brass tube scoring as you roll. You may need to clean up the inside of the tube with the blade's tip. How are you going to flare the cannon's muzzle? I've had paint peel off when using acrylic primer so just wonder if you also used it.

This is my favorite Japanese aircraft. It's big, massive and looks like a brute . I have 3 in 1/48 scale from Hasegawa and a while back, picked up one in 1/24 scale  by Bandai in ebay, factory sealed for $17. It has a complete engine but needs a lot of scratch building in the office and under the hood.

Reasoned

Question for you (and others) what do you cut the brass tubing with to get a nice clean line (without spurs and crimping?

Thanks for the replies, I have used the #11 rolling it but boy does it dull things and it has to be cleaned up, let alone trying to flare the tube, yet to figure that out.  Hans, I've not used the Q-tip but it sounds like a great idea.

Once they get istalled, it's probably a good idea to add a wire insert to keep them from curling if they're longer than a 1/4" or so.. The two inboard guns on each wing of a Jug, for example..

And here they are, the final pics.......

Tried to flare the brass rods which replaced the guns but with no succes...... but I must say on the real aircraft it's not very obvious to see........ so it didn't bother me very much ( not that it didn't bother me at all...)

back to the kit.......

weathering is done with Revell enamels for the chips; silver and various shades of green ( on top), silver and grey (bottom) , Vallejo sepia wash diluted with alcohol is used, children's veltpens for some panellines on top. And Tamiya weather pastels ( gun sooth and dirt on wheels).

I hope you like it....

Best regards.

I like it a lot! Great looking finish!

Like always, that's a really cool model you've put in here!

With regards, Ninetalis.

Looks like a well done current production kit!

Looks great plastic-man, that is another fantastic Jap build.

Plastic-surgeon

Just noticed that your link shows a 1:48 scale  Shiden kit ......

Yep, not the 1/32, my bad.

Great job as usual PS! Love the fading of the tail code and the chipping looks perfect! Everytime I do it the look seems fake somehow but what you do seems just so right...

To all of you, thank you for your comments !

Best regards.

Gamera

... the chipping looks perfect! Everytime I do it the look seems fake somehow but what you do seems just so right...

Have you tried modeling the chipping with rubber cement?  Pretty effective and less labor than salt...

Just paint the color you want the chipping to show (in this case, rattle-can aluminum), then after it's cured, apply rubber cement with a brush n a stabbing, stippling motion.. Then let it dry. After it dries, shoot the model's color-coat.  Once that's dry, you can then use your finger or thumb to rub the cement off,  exposing the color under it...

Works fr models depicting a "repaint" as well..

Used it on this Marder kit to depict the original "factory" Panzer Grey finish having been repainted in the field..