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1/48 Academy P-47N-2 RE (507th FG) with "NMF Tutorial" FINISHED...

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38 replies
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  • Member since
    February 2012
  • From: Olmsted Township, Ohio
Posted by lawdog114 on Saturday, March 9, 2013 8:55 PM

Frankjc81
Its looking great. Would you be willing to sell it or build another one that I could buy off you? The reason I ask is because Oscar was my uncle. My grandmothers brother. He passed before I was born so I have only seen pictures and heard stories about him. I have been looking for a while for a model or replica of Oscars plane. I know his actual plane was at a museum in San deigo but know I believe it's in Texas. That will be a definite future trip. Anyway, no worries if its not for sale, I had to ask. Thanks.

Hello Frank. Thank you for the compliment.  That's pretty neat that Oscar was your uncle. I was reading up a bit on him before I started the build and he seemed like an interesting person.  Reference Meatie, I would be honored to sell her to you.  Send me a PM to the right and we can discuss it further.

Joe

 "Can you fly this plane and land it?...Surely you can't be serious....I am serious, and don't call me Shirley"

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    March 2013
Posted by Frankjc81 on Thursday, March 7, 2013 8:55 PM
Its looking great. Would you be willing to sell it or build another one that I could buy off you? The reason I ask is because Oscar was my uncle. My grandmothers brother. He passed before I was born so I have only seen pictures and heard stories about him. I have been looking for a while for a model or replica of Oscars plane. I know his actual plane was at a museum in San deigo but know I believe it's in Texas. That will be a definite future trip. Anyway, no worries if its not for sale, I had to ask. Thanks.
  • Member since
    August 2009
  • From: Borlando Fla home of the rat
Posted by TREYZX10R on Thursday, January 24, 2013 8:31 PM

Joe ,WOW! Stunning looking Jug,you really did raise the bar on this kit to a higher standard. Very nicely done Sir!!!

  • Member since
    February 2012
  • From: Olmsted Township, Ohio
Posted by lawdog114 on Thursday, January 24, 2013 5:52 PM

Eric and Gary....thanks for the kind words.  

Joe

 "Can you fly this plane and land it?...Surely you can't be serious....I am serious, and don't call me Shirley"

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Cameron, Texas
Posted by Texgunner on Wednesday, January 23, 2013 9:38 PM

Geez Joe, what fantastic work!  Your craftsmanship is so obvious in this fine model.  The pics are great too!  I've spent a lot of time pouring over them, man, what a great job all around.  Thank you for the inspiration and for showing us mere mortals how it's 'sposed to be done.  Bow DownBow DownBow Down

Gary


"All you mugs need to get busy building, and post pics!"

  • Member since
    December 2006
  • From: N. Georgia
Posted by Jester75 on Wednesday, January 23, 2013 9:02 PM

Beautiful work Joe!

Eric

 

  • Member since
    February 2012
  • From: Olmsted Township, Ohio
Posted by lawdog114 on Wednesday, January 23, 2013 8:52 PM

After a marathon session last night, I finally got The Meat Chopper off my bench.  I was pleasantly surprised by the Academy N and with a little bit of work (and resin), it can be brought up close to Tamiya Jug standards (I said close). 

To summarize the build, I shaved off the rocket stubs to make Meatie more conducive to bomber escort.  I replaced the cockpit with True Details, the instrument panel with Eduard PE and the wheels are Ultracast.   The gun blast tubes are from Quickboost, however, It should be noted that these are not Quickboost's best work and are missing the distinctive chamfer/lip at the business end.  Also,they seemed undersized.  I think the Tamiya's examples are actually better.  In hindsight, I should have just used Micro tubing or robbed one of the Tamiya kits in the stash.  Other modifications were brake lines and centerline fuel tank plumbing with fine wire striped from an old stereo cord.  I was going to run plumbing to the wing tanks too, however, I could not find suitable reference pictures.  I suspect the plumbing was internal here.  I also ran ignition wires to the radial for realism. 

Here's The Meat Chopper all decked out for a B-29 escort mission over Japan. 

On a side note:  I decided to replace the oversized mis-shaped Curtiss Electric asymmetrical kit prop, with a Tamiya example from the spare parts box.  I believe N models normally used the CE symmetrical one, but I don't have a Tamiya spare of this one at the moment.  I suppose in reality the N could have used either so I didn't sweat it.   

Thanks for following this thread.  Comments are always welcome. 

Joe

 

 "Can you fly this plane and land it?...Surely you can't be serious....I am serious, and don't call me Shirley"

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    November 2008
  • From: Crawfordsville, Indiana
Posted by Wabashwheels on Sunday, January 20, 2013 8:20 PM

Great work Joe.  Paint, markings, and artwork are superb.  Your descriptions are very informative.  Thanks for sharing your work and knowledge.  Rick.

 

  • Member since
    February 2012
  • From: Olmsted Township, Ohio
Posted by lawdog114 on Saturday, January 19, 2013 2:43 AM

Melgyver
Oh, the Academy kit aileron tip shape is incorrect for the N model. The Pro Modeler kit has the correct squared off outter aileron tips.

Thank you for this information Mel, I was unaware of it.  I have heard scuttlebut that the Promodeler version was more accurate than the Academy example, but I didn't know where.  I must say however that I was comparing photos of both the Academy and Pro Modeler wings from various other builds.  Unless I'm missing something, the ailerons look nearly identical in design to me. 

Joe

 "Can you fly this plane and land it?...Surely you can't be serious....I am serious, and don't call me Shirley"

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Lafayette, LA
Posted by Melgyver on Thursday, January 17, 2013 8:41 PM
Oh, the Academy kit aileron tip shape is incorrect for the N model. The Pro Modeler kit has the correct squared off outter aileron tips.

Clear Left!

Mel

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Lafayette, LA
Posted by Melgyver on Thursday, January 17, 2013 8:38 PM
You are both right in calling it a gear reduction gear box or propeller gear box! The engine rpm had to be reduced to lower propeller speeds.

Clear Left!

Mel

  • Member since
    February 2007
  • From: Brunswick, Ohio
Posted by Buckeye on Wednesday, January 16, 2013 11:44 AM

Looking good!

Mike

  • Member since
    January 2010
  • From: Nebraska, USA
Posted by CallSignOWL on Wednesday, January 16, 2013 8:43 AM

lovely build, cant wait for more!

------------------------

Now that I'm here, where am I??

  • Member since
    December 2006
  • From: N. Georgia
Posted by Jester75 on Wednesday, January 16, 2013 8:30 AM

Beautiful work Joe, love it! I have got to find more build time!

Eric

 

  • Member since
    November 2003
  • From: State of Mississippi. State motto: Virtute et armis (By valor and arms)
Posted by mississippivol on Tuesday, January 15, 2013 9:08 PM

It's looking really good, Joe. Great job on the paint scheme.

Glenn

  • Member since
    February 2012
  • From: Olmsted Township, Ohio
Posted by lawdog114 on Tuesday, January 15, 2013 8:38 PM

Greetings all, I'm in for a little update.  I managed to get the Meat Chopper decaled last night.  I remember buying these Super Scale decals (#48-613) from my LHS about 5 years ago on clearance for 6 bucks.  This was even before I had this N kit.  I see why now, because they are older than dirt.  Two of the four stars and bars shattered when soaked.  I even used warm water.  I ended up using spares from another Aeromaster sheet.  The shade of blue is slightly off, but I hope after weathering and such it will blend in.  I then held my breath, kept the water warm, then carefully commenced to salvage the rest.   Fortunately, with liberal use of Micro Sol, I was successful.  I had to supplement the red step squares on the flaps too.    This was actually my first bad experience with Super Scale, but I'm sure It was no fault of theirs, just the antiquity of the sheet.  Also, this is the first plane I ever used "all" of the servicing stencils.   I usually put the more prominent ones on, then get bored with it, saying "good enough"..... 

     

This morning I sealed the decals with Alclad gloss coat to await a Flory panel line wash.   Its time to start working on the other assemblies, such as the prop, landing gear, drop tanks and other such bits.  Thanks for looking....stay tuned.

Joe

 "Can you fly this plane and land it?...Surely you can't be serious....I am serious, and don't call me Shirley"

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    February 2007
  • From: Brunswick, Ohio
Posted by Buckeye on Thursday, January 10, 2013 11:32 AM

Outstanding paint job!Toast

Mike

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: SW Virginia
Posted by Gamera on Thursday, January 10, 2013 7:48 AM

Wow, love the stripes and the mill Joe!

"I dream in fire but work in clay." -Arthur Machen

 

  • Member since
    December 2006
  • From: N. Georgia
Posted by Jester75 on Thursday, January 10, 2013 7:40 AM

Looking great Joe!

Eric

 

  • Member since
    February 2012
  • From: Olmsted Township, Ohio
Posted by lawdog114 on Thursday, January 10, 2013 4:13 AM

7474

Any sort of a sealer used on the NMF before applying other colors?

Nope, thats the beauty of Alclad.  Its a fantastic product.  Just to be on the safe side, I always give it a few hours to fully cure before taping.   

 "Can you fly this plane and land it?...Surely you can't be serious....I am serious, and don't call me Shirley"

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    February 2012
  • From: Olmsted Township, Ohio
Posted by lawdog114 on Thursday, January 10, 2013 4:10 AM

Hello all, in for an update.  I was able to finish up the paint scheme, clear coat these painted areas, then turn my attention to the R2800.  The tail and wing stripes were done in XF-3 Flat Yellow with a tad of XF-7 Flat Red.  The blue squadron ID stripes, to include the thin lines that outline the wing stripes, were done in an approximate 70% XF-8 Flat Blue and 30% XF-2 Flat White.  It looked right to my eye when compared to other builds.  Reference the wing stripes, I've read that some planes had blue that outlined the yellow stripe.  Since nobody seems to do this on their builds of this subject, I decided to do it to be different.  These turned out great (gotta love Tamiya tape....there's no substitute).  I then sprayed the Olive Drab anti glare panel with XF-62 Olive Drab cut with a bit of XF-49 Khaki. 

As I said earlier, I'm not too impressed with Academy's representation of the R2800 mill.  It just seems sort of basic to me.  I endeavored to spruce it up with a scratchbuilt ignition harness.  I generally make these out of Evergreen rod and fuse wire.  Without having to rehash my method, I posted a tutorial thread on how I do this which can be seen at the link below:

http://cs.finescale.com/fsm/modeling_subjects/f/2/t/149327.aspx?sort=ASC&pi240=1

Heres how it turned out:

Fortunately after the wiring, the engine still fit inside the cowl.  It has to be grunged up a bit more, likely with some X-19 Tamiya Smoke, but this is the general idea on how it will look. 

Thanks for looking...

Joe

 "Can you fly this plane and land it?...Surely you can't be serious....I am serious, and don't call me Shirley"

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    December 2002
Posted by 7474 on Saturday, January 5, 2013 10:12 AM

Any sort of a sealer used on the NMF before applying other colors?

  • Member since
    December 2006
  • From: N. Georgia
Posted by Jester75 on Saturday, January 5, 2013 8:32 AM

Going together fast! Your nmf looks like it went down smooth as silk. Thanks for the tips, I'll definitely give them a shot in the future!

Eric

 

  • Member since
    October 2004
  • From: oxford,pa
Posted by ron b on Saturday, January 5, 2013 6:40 AM

Very informative, Thanks for posting. Looking forward to seeing the finished product.

  • Member since
    February 2006
  • From: Smithers, BC, Canada
Posted by ruddratt on Friday, January 4, 2013 4:58 PM

Joe, very informative tutorial and excellent results. The tricky part for me has always been the weathering of NMFs, so I'll be eagerly awaiting the next installment, as in my stash lies a P-47, P-51, and a MiG-21 that would all benefit from these techniques.

Mike

 "We have our own ammunition. It's filled with paint. When we fire it, it makes pretty pictures....scares the hell outta people."

 

  • Member since
    December 2012
Posted by dmaastr on Friday, January 4, 2013 6:41 AM

Makes me want to build a Jug.  The NMF looks great,  Thats one finish I haven't seriously attempted.  I've always wanted to do a Jug or Mustang in NMF with full invasion stripes.  Would you recommend painting the stripes first and then mask them off or apply the NMF and mask it off?  Plus, do you let the NMF paint dry/cure a certain amount of time before masking it off?  Any suggestions would be appreciated.  

Thanks

  • Member since
    February 2012
  • From: Olmsted Township, Ohio
Posted by lawdog114 on Thursday, January 3, 2013 11:38 PM

I was able to spray my natural metal finish (NMF) last night.  Truth be told, NMFs are my absolute favorite part of model building.  Weather its a P-51 or P-47, I really enjoy the transformation from plastic to metal.  I know a lot of modelers are intimidated by NMF finishes, but I have a foolproof way of throwing it down with the Alclad II line which is truly fantastic stuff.  If you follow my method, you'll never have to worry about paint lifting.  For those interested, here's my method but you can tailor make it to fit your personal needs.  Here's how:

1.  Wet sand your seams and such with 2000 or higher grit paper.  Once satisfied its smooth and to your liking (I check my seams with a silver Sharpie...works great), wash your hands with dishwashing detergent to alleviate the natural oils on your skin.  You could also wear surgical gloves I suppose, but I don't.  Once done, wipe the airframe down with rubbing alcohol on a paper towel to remove any fingerprints or other such residue from the building process.  I always take an old toothbrush to the panel lines and crevices to make sure all of the sanding dust is gone as well.  I then use Alclad's Grey Micro Primer and spray at about 20 psi.  The nice thing about Alclad's grey primer is that it fills in any micro scratches you may have missed.  I suppose you could use any primer, but this one has always worked for me and is designed for the Alclad line.  It should look like this when done.  (Note: This stuff, as well as the Metal colors, dry very quickly, but to be safe, I let each coat cure for about fifteen minutes or so before handling.)

2.  Spray the entire airframe in  Alclad "Duraluminum".  I think this is the best overall shade for an operational wartime bird.  Not too shiny...nor too dull.  I'm not going for an airshow Jug here.  Again, I spray at about 20 psi which for me gives a nice smooth finish.  On this one, I left the tail in primer since it will be paint in 507th FG yellow.  Here's the Duraluminum. 

3.  The next series of steps is to alter the shades of several panels to break up the monotony.  Again, I'm going show my way of doing it, but you can do this to your own taste.  I started with the panel on the spine and the ammo access doors which were taped off and sprayed Alclad  "Dark Aluminum".  I try to use post it notes wherever possible and Tamiya tape sparingly because it is fairly expensive. 

4.  Using the same taping method, I then added a tad of Alclad "Magnesium" to the Dark Aluminum and sprayed the gun breach access doors. 

5.  this is where it getsfun and the creativity cmes into play.  I masked off some panels on the fuselage and the flaps which were then sprayed Alclad "Semi Matte Aluminum".  I also taped off two panels on the cowl and painted them this shade.  Its subtle but noticeable.  At this point the airframe is starting to take on a subtle patchwork type appearance which I find appealing.   

6. This is how the finished product looks.  I went back and sprayed a few of the small access boxes on the fuselage Dark Aluminum, as well as the ailerons to add further interest.  I did leave the upper wing in Duraluminum since I do recall being told these were not painted in Aluminum lacquer at the factory, like the P-51 was.  If I'm wrong, please correct me.  Once its decaled, weathered and washed, the contrast with be muted somewhat but still noticeable.

Once my research on Perdomo's Jug has concluded (somewhat confusing at this point), I with put down the Olive Drab anti-glare panel, yellow tail, wing stripes, and the blue unit stripes for the 464th FS.  The nice thing about Alclad, you can decal right on top of it without a clear coat.  Well that sums it up.  For those NMF shy, try this out.  Thanks for looking, questions and comments are always welcome. 

Joe

 "Can you fly this plane and land it?...Surely you can't be serious....I am serious, and don't call me Shirley"

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    February 2012
  • From: Olmsted Township, Ohio
Posted by lawdog114 on Thursday, January 3, 2013 2:29 PM

7474

It's the propeller gear box, not reduction gear box.

Perhaps I should have said the round thingy the propellor shaft goes in to?

 "Can you fly this plane and land it?...Surely you can't be serious....I am serious, and don't call me Shirley"

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    February 2007
  • From: Brunswick, Ohio
Posted by Buckeye on Thursday, January 3, 2013 11:28 AM

Excellent work there!

Mike

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