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Eduard Bf-108 WIP

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  • Member since
    August 2012
  • From: Parker City, IN.
Eduard Bf-108 WIP
Posted by Rambo on Wednesday, April 23, 2014 6:12 PM

Well I picked this up at the Roscoe Turner in Indy this year it was just odd enough that it stood out.

I have already start on this a bit before I took any pics just putting together a few bits that go in the cockpit and the fantastic engine that comes with the kit. After they was assembled I gave everything in the cockpit a coat of Tamiya black followed by Tamiya RLM Gray on the floor and Tamiya sky gray for the side walls. The leather seats are painted in a very very thin mix of Val model color leather.

After the paint tried I picked out a few things that needed to be painted black. One thing I don't like so far on this build is the PE gauge panel I normally like them from Eduard but this one is only one piece and you stick a piece of paper on the back that represent the gauges there two piece metal gauges look alot better to me. Either way the panel got dry brushed a dark gray and hit with a coat of Mr. Super Clear Flat. once that dries I will hit the gauges with some Micromark clear part cement to represent glass.

The rest of the cockpit got a clear coat of Alcalad Aqua Gloss. This was the first time I have ever used this and I am very happy with the way it went down. The bottle says it takes 6 hours to cure so weathering is gona be held off till tomorrow. Well thats it till this sets up thanks for looking

Clint

  • Member since
    March 2010
  • From: MN
Posted by Nathan T on Wednesday, April 23, 2014 10:53 PM

Nice start here. This is a little gem of a kit. Got a pic of the instrument panel? Are the gauges a decal or printed on clear acetate? I rather prefer Eduard's old ways of using acetate printed dials with pe bezels that go on top.

 

 

  • Member since
    August 2012
  • From: Parker City, IN.
Posted by Rambo on Thursday, April 24, 2014 7:11 PM

Hey Nathan nope the instrument panel gauges are just printed on a piece of white paper, but while looking over the part trees again I found a panel on it so I tore off the PE one striped the paint off glue the plastic one on then repainted

After I got that taken care of I gave the cockpit parts a dark pin wash then after that dried I gave it a coat of Mr. Super Clear Flat

Tomorrow I will start on the seat belts not a fun task for me. also masked off the top of the motor and gave the rest a coat of alcalad duraluminum 

Thanks for looking in any comments on how to improve this are welcome

Clint

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Western North Carolina
Posted by Tojo72 on Friday, April 25, 2014 7:53 AM

really looking good so far

  • Member since
    August 2012
  • From: Parker City, IN.
Posted by Rambo on Tuesday, April 29, 2014 6:06 PM

Got a bit more work done over the past few days I had primed the belts gave them a coat of tamiya buff then picked out some things in silver and val orange brown then gave a final flat coat. Then after all that when I went to bend the belts around the seats the paint still flaked off to bare metal in a few parts so I repainted them in val buff that's alot more yellow in color the tamiya.

I'm gona go back and probably paint them a dark sand color the yellow buff is just to bright

Also with the belts it had PE hooks on the back I drilled out some holes in the support and replaced the PE with wire.

Got some work done on the motor too and got it installed

test fitting the wings with the cockpit installed found that there was a problem with the gear wells that needed thinned down so everything could fit nicely.

There's also a gap at the wing roots but that dosen't seem like to huge of a problem but the nose is strange almost as if its undersized I'm not to sure how I'm gona deal with this one

Thanks for looking, any help especially with that gap at the nose is appreciated

Clint

  • Member since
    June 2013
Posted by RobGroot4 on Tuesday, April 29, 2014 6:49 PM

The nose almost looks like you'll have to carefully sand the fuselage on all sides to gently taper it down to fit.  Yikes!

Groot

"Firing flares while dumping fuel may ruin your day" SH-60B NATOPS

  • Member since
    June 2013
Posted by bvallot on Tuesday, April 29, 2014 8:02 PM

Ouch!  That looks tough.  If anything....I might suggest at a first thought to use CA to fill the gap there and to also make a softer transition between the two parts.  I don't know if that's the way you want to go about it.  If you sanded the cowl down to match it some, that could somewhat improve it as well.

Whatever you do...don't rush it.  =]

On the bench:  

Tamiya F4U-1  Kenneth Walsh

 

  • Member since
    February 2011
  • From: Bent River, IA
Posted by Reasoned on Wednesday, April 30, 2014 7:03 AM

I've heard that's a sweet kit, your office work looks tops.

Science is the pursiut of knowledge, faith is the pursuit of wisdom.  Peace be with you.

On the Tarmac: 1/48 Revell P-38

In the Hanger: A bunch of kits

  • Member since
    August 2012
  • From: Parker City, IN.
Posted by Rambo on Wednesday, April 30, 2014 4:20 PM

thanks for looking in Reasoned

Rob and bvallot. Im still not sure how I want to take this on but I do know I got to build it up with something either CA or I've had luck with bondo spot putty for gaps before

Clint

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Wednesday, April 30, 2014 5:41 PM

Lovely work, i don't think i have ever seen a 108 built up.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    August 2012
  • From: Parker City, IN.
Posted by Rambo on Wednesday, April 30, 2014 7:01 PM

Thanks Bish I never heard of one till I seen at the swap meet and figured it was odd enough to give a try

Also I think I've found a way of tackling this cowl

Clint

  • Member since
    February 2012
  • From: Olmsted Township, Ohio
Posted by lawdog114 on Wednesday, April 30, 2014 7:15 PM

Looking good Clint.  I look forward to your progress.  A four seat Messerschmitt....interesting.

Joe  

 "Can you fly this plane and land it?...Surely you can't be serious....I am serious, and don't call me Shirley"

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    August 2012
  • From: Parker City, IN.
Posted by Rambo on Tuesday, May 6, 2014 6:15 PM

Thanks for the encouragement Joe

I got a bit more done on the108 this week think I got that nasty gap/step taking care of

This was my first time using Mr. Surfacer have to say I'm not to impressed with it if I had to do it over again I would of just used Bondo spot putty or Tnx and sprue mix. Now that's out of the way I also got the wings put on got a few gaps here and there I knew from a few reviews that there's one that will show up around the wing root and it did but they shouldn't be a big deal

Thanks for looking in

Clint

  • Member since
    January 2014
  • From: Toronto
Posted by Rob S. on Tuesday, May 6, 2014 7:16 PM

Great looking build thus far. Nice unusual subject too

______________________________________________________________________________

 

On the Bench: Nothing on the go ATM

  • Member since
    June 2013
Posted by bvallot on Wednesday, May 7, 2014 12:07 AM

Rambo

thanks for looking in Reasoned

Rob and bvallot. Im still not sure how I want to take this on but I do know I got to build it up with something either CA or I've had luck with bondo spot putty for gaps before

Look into Milliput.  It's a two part putty that can be used to sculpt.  Another person here on the finescale forum, Baron, told me about it. It's great stuff.  You may not find a use for it for every build, but when you need it...it's a charm. =]

On the bench:  

Tamiya F4U-1  Kenneth Walsh

 

  • Member since
    February 2014
Posted by USMC6094 on Wednesday, May 7, 2014 7:13 AM

Mr Surfacer has its place in the tool box, its not meant to fill extremely large gaps like CA or putty, I found this out the hard way a long time ago. All in all, once you find the best way to use it for your own needs, its a great thing. Also if you let the applied Mr Surfacer set up for a while, three days or more, its much more sandable and if youre using it to fill large areas, build it up by grade, 500 as a base, 1000 next and so on, true its not as fast as CA but youre not fighting time like you are with CA once you hit it with accelerator.

Anyway, I like the progress youre making, this is gonna be a nice looking bird

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Lyons Colorado, USA
Posted by Ray Marotta on Wednesday, May 7, 2014 1:29 PM

The panel lines look like they match up very well.  I think I would use sheet styrene and laminate the top and bottom of the cowl piece with a strip or strips as necessary to fill in that step out to about half to three quarters of it's width.  Then I'd gently taper in from the base toward the forward end.  Specifically, I would use pieces of sprue to temporarily  brace the cowl piece from top to bottom and side to side so it will hold it's shape and use copper wire twisted tightly as a form fitting clamps to hold down the sheet styrene.  When the cement dries, remove the wire "clamps" and reshape the part.  When finished, remove the sprue braces.  Little to no molded on detail will be lost...

 ]

 

 

  • Member since
    August 2012
  • From: Parker City, IN.
Posted by Rambo on Wednesday, May 7, 2014 5:50 PM

bvallot: I've used miliput on figures before I really like the stuff I've even used it to make ground work for small dioramas. I didn't think about it for this and its sitting no more then 2ft away from me

USMC: The guy at the LHS gave me about a half bottle of Mr. Surfacer and told me it would be the best thing to use I didn't even know there was different grades but this one says 1200 guessing this wasn't the best one to try to use then it took about 6 coats some places 8 to get it to fill in

Ray: Thanks for the info if I find myself in this spot again I will give that a try

Clint

  • Member since
    February 2014
Posted by USMC6094 on Wednesday, May 7, 2014 7:47 PM

1200 is about the finest of the series, I believe they've come out with 1500 now, but 500 or 1000 ( the latter is a BIG MAYBE) would've worked much better.

Anyway you slice it though, youre building a good looking 108

  • Member since
    April 2007
  • From: Twin Towns, MN
Posted by MAgather on Thursday, May 8, 2014 9:43 PM

Howdy Clint.  That is a great start on your Taifun. I'm watching closely, as I've got one in waiting.  I picked up the Monogram In Detail, so let me know if you need a reference point or two.

Good Modeling,
  • Member since
    August 2012
  • From: Parker City, IN.
Posted by Rambo on Friday, May 9, 2014 2:05 PM

MAgather Thank you I could use anything you got especially on the sunshades that I have seen in some pics on these.

Clint

  • Member since
    August 2012
  • From: Parker City, IN.
Posted by Rambo on Saturday, May 24, 2014 5:42 AM

well got a bit to report.

Got the windows masked with Tamiya tape the kit came with plastic masks but they was to small for the frames not sure if they shrink over time or not. then sprayed Tamiya RLM 02 for the inside color.

while I had paint in the brush I hit the seams and did some repair work here and there then primed with black

After that dried I painted the underside Vallejo Model Air RLM 65 I think the color is a good match and the Model Air really stands up to tape and handling unlike Tamiya

Then that was masked and Vallejo MA RLM 70 was sprayed then the splinter was masked off and RLM 71 put down

after the masks was took off I could really tell that Vallejos RLM 70/71 is way off almost a blue grey then a dark green still like how tough they are so may try to find a mix for a future build. Now I do have one ref book the Aero Details book for the BF110 and in its color chart section it shows RLM70/71 being this exact shade so not sure if thats where Vallejo used for a ref or not but its do dark for my liking. Thanks for taking a look

Clint

  • Member since
    April 2005
  • From: Piscataway, NJ!
Posted by wing_nut on Saturday, May 24, 2014 6:25 AM

Rambo that look just fine and dandy.  The underside looks great.  I've not yet tried Vallejo's model air line.  I use the regular stuff a lot.  Glad to hear that it stands up to handle etc., more so than Tamiya.  I have always found Tamiya to be pretty tough.    

Marc  

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