Junker Ju 88 A-1 WIP

I have this in my stash so will be keep an eye on your progress to get some tips

Phil

Nice pit Dflu. The drybrushing is well done. The 1/48 scale A-1 is a kit I've been yearning for to complete my Battle of Britain collection..  Oh wait, they don't make one.... I look forward to your progress.

Do you care to share your wood painting technique?  That is very convincing..

Joe

Is this the same as the Revell kit. Awesome start so far, and ye, would love to hear how you did the wood.

Dang if you are not one busy bee! Nice! Very impressive work!

Thanks everyone.

Bish, yes this is the same plastic as the Revell of Germany boxing. The big difference being markings...though the Promodeler version shares on scheme in common with the RoG boxing. Other difference is that you get the tail swastikas in this one...whereas you don't in the RoG boxes (I'll be using masking for most everything though).

Joe, I snapped a couple of in progress pics of the wood graining...I'm going to do ao in-depth tutorial for the blog, but until then:

(Note....I didn't invent this...a lot of people do something similar...however...I did kind of figure it out on my own back before forums and all that :D)

First I spray a base color...you can vary this depending on what final effect you want...but I usually go a light tan, or buff...sometimes I'll use Vallejo "natural wood."

Let that dry and then I break out the artist oils. For the first step here I used burnt umber

I spread it across the surface in the direction I want the grain. I use a stiff fine tipped brush to "draw" the grain into the paint. Because oils are so workable you can play with it a while...you can als0 use a number of different things to impart the grain. On large surfaces a piece of foam packing (like Aires packs stuff in) is great...just pull it along in the direction of grain...for this small surface a fine tipped brush worked well...I'll also use a wider brush in some instances.

The biggest thing is to let the oil dry completely...I let this first application dry 3 days...if you try to go over it, or put a clear coat on it will just wipe the effect away....oil takes a while to dry!

After significant drying time I decided to use another color (raw sienna) and repeat the process...just to vary the color a bit...it's all up to discretion

The above pic is after a gloss coat....if you want to give a varnished look you can finish it with straight gloss or tinted gloss....some people use a clear orange or mix of orange and yellow...I'm going to source some to give it a try...but I don't think these pieces need it...biplane struts and such I'd be more inclined to tint since they are usually highly varnished

Very nice work.  That wood grain is excellent!

John

dflu, I don't know how you find the time!! Great looking start.  =]  and an excellent visual aid for wood painting.  To piggyback on this...for any of those who are interested...I've also seen where after the darker wash/oils were put down, the rest of the wooden cooler was built up in progressively lighter colors until it suited your needs.  This is especially helpful on a textured surface.

I haven't heard or even given any thought to using something else to "paint" with for a wooden surface...makes you wonder about all kinds of things to use...!!!  =D

I think RoG is one of the few companies left that don't include swastika's in any form now.

Thanks for the tut on the wood. I have seen similar methods, hut your results are amongst the best I have seen.

I really need to get me some oil paints... at least a few colors for stuff like this and figure work.

Err...really, Stick? You don't use oils for anything? Do you generally do your washes with thinner enamels? I'm thinking of moving that route for washes..oils tend to separate in thinner quicker than I'd like. Makes things more work. I do like them for shading. I shaded the seat cushions with them too.

You can get a decent set of small tubes at Hobby Lobby for not too much.

Yes, I have mostly used enamels for my washes and been quite happy with them. I tried acrylics a few times, but they dry too quick and don't clean up as well. I only use acrylic washes on a very limited basis for those reasons. And I have used some pre mix water based washes as well that are really great. We just got Hobby Lobby here locally in the past year and half and I do not get over nearly as often as I should. I can count on one or maybe both hands the times that I have been there so far...

I generally like the Flory wash for overall but I go back between it and oils. But the problem with oil is that you mix it and by the time you've applied it say down a panel line a few inches when you go back to it it's separated and basically useless until you re-stir it. For filters it's killer though.

I've been considering enamel for pin washes...particularly on interiors. I use mostly enamels all around now though. What do you thin it with? The Model Master thinner or spirits? Either way a clear coat is going to be needed...no biggie there really.

I usually thin with generic paint thinner form the hardware store. I have a few gallons of the stuff thanks to a neighbor who was getting rid of his. I go one of two routes, clear acryic coat over an enamel base color to act as a barrier, or I use acrylics as the base coat and no need for the barrier coat. The enamels do seperate from the thinner as well. Mostly dpending upon how much thinner to paint ratio that I use.

Thank you sir. I'm going to give the enamel a try next time. I figure it will perform a bit better...even with the separation. I'm convinced the pre made washes you see these days are exactly that... Heavily thinned enamel. I've got a couple of AK bottles...

I'd really like to use something other than grey, black, or brown all the time...seems a dark green would be a nice choice on interior green...more to create a shadow effect than a grime effect.

Other than a Flory wash on the exterior panel lines, this is my go-to for all my washing needs.  I mix the brown and black to come up with a dark burnt umber-like color.  When I discovered this, I found no use for anything else.  It's water based so its very user friendly. 

....and thanks for explaining your wood painting method Dflu.  I may have to give it a whirl..

Joe 

I've got some of that. Years old and I've not used it much. I just can't figure it out. I like the results you get but how do you use it? You HAVE to be thinning it down right? Does it leave behind a streaking/staining effect like Flory does if you use it over a non-gloss surface?

Looking forward to seeing more of the 88, the office is looking great!

Sheesh...It only took three weeks to get the cockpit polished and closed. Without a doubt the longest I've spent on an interior...and it's not entirely finished. I need to add a couple of pieces that I don't want exposed while I do body work.

The cockpit halves go together fairly easily, but I think there was a tad bit of warping near the tail. The top and bottom fuselage inserts went in o k a y, but not perfect. Just a bit of filler here and there to level everything out.

Very nice!

Well that 3 weeks look well spent. Really nice.

A buddy of mine just finished one of these, this builds up to one pretty model once its complete, and its wings and tail fit so well that you dont have to cement them on

Youre doing a bang up job on this old girl I look forward to more progress reports

That looks like a cheery kit and your office is outstanding.

Excellent thread and tutorial on technique!

Thanks for taking the time to explain.

Jason

Looks really nice so far.  I'll be watching this on coming together. 

SuppressionFire

Excellent thread and tutorial on technique!

Thanks for taking the time to explain.

Jason

Spent most of last week feeling like a corpse...flu or something...I got no bench time from last Monday through to this past weekend. When I did get going again I felt obligated to focus on the Ventura. But that one's got a base coat drying, so it was Junkers time tonight.

First, I've been fiddling with the wings for a while now, but I wrapped them up (minus the engine nacelles).

Painted interiors with Mr. Color RLM 02. I highlighted with some Model Master Oil Stain from the AB and then I hit it with a wash. Not great pictures since I just snapped real fast at the bench.

Next I moved to working on the nose a bit. Two glass pieces installed at this point and neither of them fit exceptionally well. I think this had a bit to do with the CMK cockpit pushing the nose a little wider than it's supposed to be.

The chin piece took well to Tamiya Extra Thin and some targeted sanding brought it together with the fuselage just fine. The nose piece was upon test fitting had a bit of a gap, but I realized that one side of the fuselage extended a little furthure. I sanded it even as much as I could, but some gaps in spots still presented. I used CA to attach the piece and act as filler. The nice thing about the vinyl masks is that you can sand with a little more confidence.

To the touch and naked eye I think I'm where I want to be with it. Putting some paint on tomorrow will answer that mystery, but I don't foresee it needing much more work.



Obligatory wings on shot. I'm leaning real heavy toward painting those behemoths separately. Even with that tape (for blocking sanding dust) in the way it's a snug fit.

This looking great dflu78!  The cockpit is tremendous.

Hope you're feeling better, I came down with the flu (or something similar) at the beginning of the month, could barely get out of bed for a solid week.  Even worse, i was so lethargic that the time off work did not amount to an increase of bench time!

After paint the nose appears to be in good order. I'm gonna need to soften the panel line up with an application of Mr. Surfacer I think, but nothing too worrisome. The gondola also went on without a fuss. Just a little messy from clean up.

[

So next I started to focus on the canopy pieces. Began mocking things up.



Then I put the front piece on.

Looking good



NOOOO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!



I don't really understand what's happening here. Clearly the lower panel of glass is short. In fact you can see it in the pic above before the front piece was dry fitted. I didn't sand, or scrape or do anything to this piece that would cause such a big discrepancy.

The only way I can figure to address this will be to shim it flush with styrene. Being a clear piece it's going to be nerve wrecking, but you gotta do what you gotta do I guess.

Doing great work on this thing. Looks like you got the canopy fixed up good!