Klear drying time??

lawdog114

 Different strokes for different folks I suppose. Joe

Yep, but.....

In my case, I've decided to move to Alclad regular gloss coat for now. Their lacquers, not the Aqua Clear.

I tried their matte and flat and applied the matte to a finished model the other day. Might be in love.

Do you use the Alclad aqua clear (water based) for anything, Joe?

I'm still not done picking your brain about clear coats, Joe. Lucky you.

Good to know. I've fallen in love with the Alclad gloss and I tend to let things dry at least 24 hrs and I have not had any decalling issues, yet. Crossed fingers.

Greg

Good tip, Bick. thanks.

In my case, I wasn't  paying attention and applied Flory wash over the Microsol stain. The wash bit right into the boo-boo, and isn't coming off.

Good tip, Bick. thanks.

In my case, I wasn't  paying attention and applied Flory wash over the Microsol stain. The wash bit right into the boo-boo, and isn't coming off.

I use Future often and have found that Micosol and Microset can cause a little discoloration when decals are applied but with an ABed overcoating of Future the discoloration disappears. BTW I have a bottle of the original Future and recently bought a bottle of 'Pledge Tile and Vinyl Floor Shine - with Future Shine'. I don't find any difference between them.

Thank you for elaborating, Joe.

Ironically, during the course of this thread and before you just mentioned Future's new recipe not standing up to micro sol, I had an accident of Micro sol (and Solvaset...yeah, I know, dangerous stuff) attacking an Alclad Aqua Gloss clear (mentioned by Brandon above).

I guess it's going to be no water based clear coats for me. In defense of Alcad, it is possible that I didn't let the Aqua clear cure long enough, or I laid it on too thin. It was more a a satin finish. Mad at myself, I thought I knew better.

Well, it looks great until you try to use Micro Sol on it.  It just won't stand up to the solvents anymore.  Perhaps a bad batch, but others have had the same issues I've had.  I'm surprised they haven't chimed in yet.  I tossed it so I dont remember what the bottle said.  It did say"with Future" on it.  I do clearly remember it was crap.  Then I discovered Alclad Gloss and never looked back.  The stuff is wonderful and designed for scale modeling. 

It may stil be ok for canopy dipping, but I'll use Future for what it was intended for, my floors......

Joe

Sounds like we are in the same place, Brandon. I am also using the Alclad Aqua Clear. And also their straight lacquer based clear coats. About to experiment with their flat and matte (or whatever they call them)

For my gloss coat I have fallen in love with Alclad Aqua gloss clear. It spays easy and you can go a bit heavy and it lays right down. I've also given up on the future for anything other than windscreens. I have been using mostly Model Masters semi-gloss and flat coats along with Alclads gloss and I really like using them. I need to try Testors gloss and see how it works for me. I've heard good things about that.

Hope Joe can answer that, Brandon. I can't say cuz I've never used the new stuff ......is why I am picking Joe's brain.

I have also given up on airbrushing it. By the time I get it glossy all the panel lines and stuff are history. Probably my lousy technique, but I've found a solution that works better for me.

I have never used the "old stuff" but I have the new stuff with the boots on it. I works great for windows and such. With and airbrush it takes many layers to get a smooth finish but brushing works well also. I have not had any drying issues to complain about but I cant compare it to the old stuff. Is it that the new formula is "softer" when dry?

lawdog114

The latest incarnation of Future, or whatever they're calling it now, is garbage and not conducive to scale modeling.  They insist its that same formula but it's not....not even close.  The stuff will not cure.  If you must use it, get an old bottle that says "Future" in big letters on it.  I've seen them on Ebay from time-to-time

Joe  

Joe, this really has me curious. Did you try the new future yourself? Was it the bottle with the boots on it?

I'd go buy a bottle with the boots just to try it myself, but I'm too cheap. Still have an almost full bottle of the 'old' stuff. BTW, it is showing signs of yellowing which disturbs me a bit. Only had it a little over a year.

Mine cures just fine. Maybe you got a bad batch

Well that's not good. Wonder how long my bottle with last? (It still has the 'future shine' logo on it).

The latest incarnation of Future, or whatever they're calling it now, is garbage and not conducive to scale modeling.  They insist its that same formula but it's not....not even close.  The stuff will not cure.  If you must use it, get an old bottle that says "Future" in big letters on it.  I've seen them on Ebay from time-to-time

Joe  

Texgunner

Here ya go:

http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html

Yep, that's it.

Far as I know, that is the Holy Grail of future uses for scale model building on the internet.

Here ya go:

http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html

Yup, Pledge Floor Care with the blue boots is the one. You can also get it on Amazon. I was able to get it there even cheaper than Walmart.

Bones, if you live in the US, maybe Walmart, Meijer or and Ace hardware. It has been re-named and re-labeled, it is tricky to buy the right one. You want the one with the boots on the label.

See Swanny's page, look at the animated gif at the top right to see the correct product......

www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html

You can look at SC Johnson's home page here to see all the confusing choices down towards the bottom, and a good pic of the "boots" label for reference.

www.pledge.com/.../default.aspx

I have read that what used to be branded as Future Floor Polish here in the US is called  Klear in some other countries. Perhaps the UK and/or Australia, if memory serves???

I think clear is another name for floor polish with future.  

I generally go for 24 hours, but I use latex gloves (without powder) when handling to ensure I don't get any fingerprints on it.

Groot

It's an acrylic floor polish.

Is Klear a brand name of some sort of clear paint?

I think 24 hrs is good. But being anal and not a fan of canopy masking, I usually let it cure an extra couple days before masking in fear of having to strip and re-mask.

That said, this stuff is designed to be walked on shortly after applying, so my way is probably overkill.

24 hours for me too

I leave mine for 24 hours and then I have no issues with dust or fingerprints. So far, so good.