SEARCH FINESCALE.COM

Enter keywords or a search phrase below:

strange Alclad reaction

5598 views
21 replies
1 rating 2 rating 3 rating 4 rating 5 rating
  • Member since
    April 2010
strange Alclad reaction
Posted by Theuns on Friday, September 26, 2014 10:11 AM

I am busy with this 1/48 Hasa 104c.

The base was standard gloss enamel black like I usually use.

I shot on a few coats of airframe alluminium to get a dark look, masked off the pannels on the exhaust area and tail.

Shot more airframe allu on to lighten it, this is my standard MO.

Then I wanted to give a pollished look to the one panel just behind the speed brake so I shpt some pollished allu alclad over it, and it gave me the "reaction" with the airframe allu.

Any ideas why??

The flash off time before I put it on is more than between the coats of airframe allu, so I can't see that I was to quick on that.

Is all "shades" of alclad not the same as far as "chemistry"???

I will have to mask off that are, sand back and re-do it.

Theuns

  • Member since
    December 2004
  • From: Houston, Texas
Posted by panzerpilot on Friday, September 26, 2014 10:25 AM

I can't tell from the picture, but is is just tone or is there a definite texture difference?

On a few occasions, with my sabre, I had similar issues. When fixing blemishes, If the pressure was too high and airbrush too close, it would have a smudgy tone, Ie, the alclad was too concentrated in a small area. I fixed it by backing up a bit and lowering pressure slightly then blended it in.

I've also noticed a similar result as that when alclad is faded, at an angle. It seems to like a direct angle, especially with airframe or polished.

-Tom

  • Member since
    April 2010
Posted by Theuns on Friday, September 26, 2014 11:50 AM

Defenately a texture to it, not just the angle.

You can see it on the lefthand section and upper right hand section of the very shiny pannel.

Theuns

  • Member since
    November 2004
  • From: Cat Central, NC
Posted by Bronto on Friday, September 26, 2014 5:22 PM

The texture you are seeing is the lacquer Alclad "eating" into the enamel base.  You need to undercoat Alclad with a LACQUER base coat.   The thinners used in Alclad are too "hot" to be used over enamels with the possibility of the results you see there.

  • Member since
    January 2014
  • From: Nampa, Idaho
Posted by jelliott523 on Friday, September 26, 2014 5:29 PM

I have never used Alclad yet; however, I am wondering if there wasnt possibly some adhesive left behind after you masked the area prior to painting?  I've seen this similar type of thing when I've masked off an area and then painted it, there was some adhesive left behind from the mask.  Granted I wasnt using the highest quality of tape as a mask either.

On the Bench:  Lots of unfinished projects!  Smile

  • Member since
    November 2004
Posted by snapdragonxxx on Friday, September 26, 2014 5:31 PM

I haven't used Alclad yet, but I got a few bottles not long ago.

I am very wary about using this as it is an unknown to me so I have a few questions.

1. Just what should I use as a primer?

2. What is the correct pressure and distance for airbrushes?

3. What is the recommended cleaning substance?

I primarily use Vallejo acrylics and so am wary of this stuff, but I have seen some of the finishes done by members here and so I thought I should learn how it's done and have a bash myself.

It is my intention at some point to build Trumpeter's 1/32 EE Lightning F1a for a family friend who was the RAF Test pilot of the aircraft. I do want to do a "proper" metal finish and this is the way to go I think.

Thanks for any answers.

James

  • Member since
    July 2014
Posted by modelcrazy on Friday, September 26, 2014 5:32 PM

That's what I heard years ago. You can't spray lacquer over enamel but you can spray enamel over lacquer.

I've noticed most guys here use the gloss black enamel because the Alclad gloss black lacquer is so bad and stays tacky. It seems to work out, at least the majority of the time.

Steve

Building a kit from your stash is like cutting a head off a Hydra, two more take it's place.

 

 

http://www.spamodeler.com/forum/

  • Member since
    December 2004
  • From: Houston, Texas
Posted by panzerpilot on Friday, September 26, 2014 5:52 PM

Looks like Bronto nailed it?

Snapdragon. My personal recommendation for primer is alclad, since that's what they have formulated anyway. Either the Gloss black, if you are going for a more robust, shiny coat. Or, the Grey otherwise. They also have a white and a clear primer, though I have no experience with it. It does take a while to dry but is more forgiving in light coats.Same with their clear coat sealers.

Alclad recommends 15psi, which seems just about right. I use 12-15psi, at about 2 to 3 inches.Though I have used it close in with far less pressure. It's very thin, so not much is needed to get it out the nozzle. If you are going to mist a coat (duraluminum over airframe aluminum, etc.) to drive down the shine, etc. I use 20psi and back up 5 to 6 inches. Just be sure you shake the bottle up really well every time, so no pigment is sitting in the bottom of the bottle, which happens in no time at all.

Laquer thinner to clean.

-Tom

dmk
  • Member since
    September 2008
  • From: North Carolina, USA
Posted by dmk on Friday, September 26, 2014 8:27 PM

You can use lacquer (such as Alclad) over Enamel. I use Testors gloss black as a base under Alclad regularly.

The trick is you need to make sure the enamel is fully cured. I let enamel cure a week before I top coat with Alclad or Testors dullcote. If you don't, you get a wrinkled finish that looks just like that picture.

Something that I have tried recently (and it seems to work well) is Testors Model Master gloss black lacquer. It goes on very nicely and only appears to need 24-48 hours to cure.

  • Member since
    April 2010
Posted by Theuns on Friday, September 26, 2014 11:35 PM

The thing that tickles me is that the rest of the airrame allu went over the enamel beautifully.

The affected area lookd exactly like the rest of the airplane BEFORE I shot the pollished allu over the airframe allu.

SOmehow the pollished allu ate through the other alclads and enamel to foil the plastic.

I have in the meantime masked and sanded back the area, will re-black it and then try again.

Theuns

  • Member since
    February 2006
Posted by Neptune48 on Saturday, September 27, 2014 12:02 AM

More recently I have used Testors Model Master Automotive Lacquer Gloss Black.

Dave is absolutely right...If the base coat is fully cured, you should have no problems spraying Alclad over it.

"You can't have everything--where would you put it?"
  • Member since
    November 2004
Posted by snapdragonxxx on Saturday, September 27, 2014 8:05 AM

Thanks for the answers and help chaps.

When priming, as in the photo above, do you also prime the inside too in case of overspray with the alclad or just mask off?

I think a visit to the Alclad stand at Telford is on the cards now and a cheap kit to practice on. It's time this old dog tried a couple of new tricks!

A cheap airbrush as well for testing purposes, Veda maybe!

Hmmmm..... Bare metal 1/32 lightning.... Bare metal 1/32 Flying fort....... OOOOH!!

What could go wrong? ..... knowing me I will probably melt half the house!

  • Member since
    January 2014
Posted by Silver on Saturday, September 27, 2014 8:38 AM
Try a test surface area then spray Tamiya gloss black or Testors gloss black and let it fully dry.Then on one side of the test surface area spray tamiya Bare metal finish and the other side spray Alclad Polish aluminum .You will then see that they are identicle w/tamiya being much less $ to spend on results that are better on the tamiya side.Then use testors Metalizers for your panels.The tamiya gloss black will dry very much faster within one min. I completed a full alclad project on an F-100d, and spent about 150$ on just the alclad bottles alone.Masking is much stronger w/tamiya metal finish paint.Also in direct sunlight the tamiya BMS will blind you.
  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Saturday, September 27, 2014 11:44 AM

One thing you can do to make different shading on panels without changing which type of Alclad is to vary the thickness of application.  This is especially true with Polished Aluminum.  If you are putting it over a good, shiny black base, and you put it on very thin, it has a real high gloss.  Then, mask off panels with Post-it notes or really, really low tack masking material, and go back over some panels with a thicker, second coat.  Do some panels with a really heavy coat.  The thicker the coat, the more matt the appearance.  A really thick coat of any of the Alclads looks just like aluminum (or whatever) paint.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    April 2010
Posted by Theuns on Saturday, September 27, 2014 11:52 AM

What Don said.

The  dark panels are the same airframe allu just a few coats less.

Theuns

  • Member since
    April 2010
Posted by Theuns on Sunday, September 28, 2014 9:04 AM

I might just have saved it LOL

This time pollished allu over alclad black base.

Theuns

  • Member since
    December 2004
  • From: Houston, Texas
Posted by panzerpilot on Sunday, September 28, 2014 10:46 AM

Great. Congrats!

-Tom

  • Member since
    February 2005
  • From: Cleveland, OH
Posted by RadMax8 on Sunday, September 28, 2014 10:22 PM

I wonder if you might have just gone a little heavy on the polished aluminum. The lacquer is pretty hot, and I wonder if maybe it ate through.

Anyway, I'm glad it worked out in the end. Nice recovery.

  • Member since
    April 2010
Posted by Theuns on Sunday, September 28, 2014 11:29 PM

Quite posible I might have "flooded" the area as it is very hard to tell while spraying the pollished over the airframe allu how much you are actually putting on.

Anyway, lessons learned :-)

Theuns

dmk
  • Member since
    September 2008
  • From: North Carolina, USA
Posted by dmk on Monday, September 29, 2014 7:17 PM

RadMax8

I wonder if you might have just gone a little heavy on the polished aluminum. The lacquer is pretty hot, and I wonder if maybe it ate through.

I was thinking that very thing.  I've made that mistake also. You have to put it on in multiple passes, but very lightly and allow it to dry a few seconds before the next pass. You need good light in the paint booth too.

Luckily it is very thin straight out of the bottle, so you can use low air pressure.

dmk
  • Member since
    September 2008
  • From: North Carolina, USA
Posted by dmk on Monday, September 29, 2014 7:21 PM

Theuns

The thing that tickles me is that the rest of the airrame allu went over the enamel beautifully.

The affected area lookd exactly like the rest of the airplane BEFORE I shot the pollished allu over the airframe allu.

SOmehow the pollished allu ate through the other alclads and enamel to foil the plastic.

It didn't attack the plastic. It attacked the enamel.

 I'm just curious, how long did the enamel cure before you applied the Alclad?

 

  • Member since
    April 2010
Posted by Theuns on Monday, September 29, 2014 11:18 PM

The enamel was about 5 days old in hot weather, so it must have been my application tecnique.

Theuns

JOIN OUR COMMUNITY!

Our community is FREE to join. To participate you must either login or register for an account.

SEARCH FORUMS
FREE NEWSLETTER
By signing up you may also receive reader surveys and occasional special offers. We do not sell, rent or trade our email lists. View our Privacy Policy.