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Alclad ll

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  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Friday, July 3, 2015 9:04 AM

I also find very light/thin coats are best for controlling the sheen.  This is most important with the high gloss versions such as polished aluminum.  The more weathered versions are less critical.  Further, the thicker you put on any version/color, the more matt it is.  This is also a way to make individual panels look different.  Start with a light coat, then mask off some panels with low tack stuff such as Post-it notes and apply heavier coats, repeat for an even heavier application and you will end up with a pattern with three degress of sheen.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    June 2013
Posted by RobGroot4 on Friday, July 3, 2015 6:29 AM

I haven't used Montex, but I imagine that the sheet is one complete sheet with the masks precut (leaving you scrap masking material).  Just take some scrap and slap it on a piece of clear sprue and test on that.  If you do have any run under, see what gets it up!  

Groot

"Firing flares while dumping fuel may ruin your day" SH-60B NATOPS

  • Member since
    March 2013
Posted by patrick206 on Wednesday, July 1, 2015 2:00 PM

Thanks, P Mitch and Joe.

  • Member since
    October 2008
  • From: England
Posted by P mitch on Wednesday, July 1, 2015 2:44 AM

If your worried about anything leaking under the masks you could put a coat of Allclad clear down first over the masks as this would fill any areas that may leak. On canopy I'd use the Aqua gloss for this then after you take the masks off you cold use the semi gloss or aqua gloss to give the canopy a shine and cover over any leaks and hide any ridge that could be caused by the masks themselves

Phil

"If anybody ever tells you anything about an aeroplane which is so bloody complicated you can't understand it, take it from me: it's all balls." R J Mitchell


  • Member since
    February 2012
  • From: Olmsted Township, Ohio
Posted by lawdog114 on Wednesday, July 1, 2015 12:36 AM

You will love Alclad.  Eduard makes some great canopy masks too.  Perhaps better than the invention of sliced bread.  I'll have to try the Montex stuff now.  

Joe  

 "Can you fly this plane and land it?...Surely you can't be serious....I am serious, and don't call me Shirley"

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    March 2013
Posted by patrick206 on Tuesday, June 30, 2015 11:19 PM

Thanks all, Brandon, Bvallot, Jeaton, Chuck, good info. I'll be careful, slow and go a bit dry, multiple coats. Practice on spare kit parts first, of course. I appreciate your checking in.

Patrick

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Northern California
Posted by jeaton01 on Tuesday, June 30, 2015 11:07 PM

I learned that if I spray on a wet coat of Alclad it doesn't cover as well as a slightly dry coat, seems like it gets translucent, and of course it takes a lot longer to dry.  I prefer SNJ but Alclad has been fine once I went dry with it.

John

To see build logs for my models:  http://goldeneramodel.com/mymodels/mymodels.html

 

  • Member since
    April 2009
  • From: Longmont, Colorado
Posted by Cadet Chuck on Tuesday, June 30, 2015 9:03 PM

I have thrown out about $100 worth of Alclad, because it doesn't work for me.  Probably my fault, but don't spray it on a good model until you test in on a sheet of styrene and make sure you get the hang of it.  Personally, I will not use it any more.

Gimme a pigfoot, and a bottle of beer...

  • Member since
    June 2013
Posted by bvallot on Tuesday, June 30, 2015 7:13 PM

Patrick, so long as you have a good seal on your canopy you ought to be fine.  The Alclad will go down in thin coats and shouldn't be built up all at once.  Hit your canopy from about 3-5 inches away (make sure you have the underneath parts masked as well) and do it in light coats from 90ยบ above the surface.  Straight on in other words.  This lessens the risk of getting underneath it as well.

Just keep it simple.  You ought to be happy with the results.  =]

On the bench:  

Tamiya F4U-1  Kenneth Walsh

 

  • Member since
    June 2014
Posted by BrandonK on Tuesday, June 30, 2015 5:27 PM

Well, first off the Montex masks are just the Bee's knees. They won't leak a bit. Very crisp edges. I much prefer them over Eduard masks. Not even a close race. But the Alclad is very very thin stuff and is sprayed on extremely thin. Thinner than any other paint by miles so you won't see any build up around edges unless you go nuts and over spray but that'll ruin your paint job anyway. The Alclad dries almost instantly also. If one did have some leakage it would be tricky to "flick" it off.

BK

On the bench:

A lot !! And I mean A LOT!!

2024 Kits on deck / in process / completed   

                         14 / 5 / 2  

                              Tongue Tied

  • Member since
    March 2013
Alclad ll
Posted by patrick206 on Tuesday, June 30, 2015 5:07 PM

Hi Members - I realize this question is about paint, but I thought I might get more responses here. I'm getting ready to lay on Alclad, on my first really critical build. I'm using Montex canopy masks, first time, not sure of just how perfectly they seal paint edge. When using MM enamel or Tamiya acrylic and I encounter a tiny bit of residual paint after lifting tape, it's easily removed with a sharpened toothpick or cocktail plastic sword, with no damage to canopy window.  Can I expect the same with Alclad ll? I'll for sure try it first, but any heads up tips from you experienced folks would be helpful and appreciated. Thanks in advance.



Patrick

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