How to rescribe rivets??

Here's a train of thought - We did this when we needed rivets back in the day: try using an aluminum, or brass tube the size of your rivets that you need. Sand the edge to a 45* degree angle so that all you'd have to do is mark where you need your rivet - place the tube over it, and turn it SLOWLY so that it will dig slightly into the plastic so that you'll have a small indentation in the shape of a circle. This will make it easier to replicate this effect. If you need to make the tube easier to handle just glue the next size up to it so that you can insert another tube sideways into the smaller ones so that you can make a handle. I did this when I needed a tire valve core extractor, but didn't have the money to (waste/get) one. You can also do this for other rivets in other sizes for multiple projects.

~ Cobra Chris

Hi !

Micromart carries a line of HO scale rivet decals that I've used on 1/72.  They might carry an "O" gauge assortment, I just don't remember....you can check them on line.

I cut these to length and then apply just as I would any decal, let dry, cover with matte, then paint as needed.

Someone else mentioned "ponce wheels"  these work nice for flush riviting and the come with different diameter wheels that simulate other sizes/scales.

Finally, you could drill a series of "small holes" along the panel line and then fill the hole with stretched sprue....let it dry completely and then sand......I've never tried this but after the sprue is glued and set you might be able to "round the head" by bringing a hot pin close to the sprue.......like you do when you use sprue for flying wires and need to bring it taught....

I use this tool (lower center of photo). It inserts directly into your X-acto knof handle. It comes with four different rivet spacings.

I want to simulate the rivets like on Trumpeter type models.

I do not have access to that wheel scriber here in SA so will have to come up with another way...

I am not yet sure if it would be NMF or some form of camo. If camo I would just leave the reaised detail on as the airframe would not have to be sanded so smooth anyway.

But dang a Sabre looks so good in NMF :-)

Thanx for the feedback

Theuns

I purchased the trumpeter rivet tool and from some of the youtube videos I've watched, you'll get better results after a the primer is applied. I need to practice again once I get into a place I can start building again.

Is this for a natural metal finish?  As I remember looking at painted planes flush rivets are almost invisible.  For NMF I often just use a sharp toothpick to put down dots of flat aluminum to simulate flush rivets.  After dipping end of toothpick in very thin layer of paint, I touch piece of cardboard first to catch any big daub of paint, then can produce about three or four rivets before repeating.

To get an even thin layer of paint for dipping, I shake the bottle, then set cap down upside down on bench and dip into layer of paint remaining in cap.

A rivet wheel, from Rosie, Radu, or Trumpeter. Also, a needle in a pin vise works, but you may have to go back and drill each hole out a little with a #80 drill bit. 

Thanx Jack, I actually want to sand off all the raised rivets with "scribed" rivgets like o n modern kits. The Sabre I am doing would have had flush rivets anyway but they do give a good look detail wize in 32nd scale so I don't want to omit all the rivet detail.

Theuns

If you want raised rivets, I'd look into the resin ones that are applied like decals.  You cut the required length as a row of rivets. 

Fine Archer and HGW make them.

Or, if you want engraved rivets, the pounce wheel is popular with some.

regards,

Jack