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A simple fix

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  • Member since
    April 2013
  • From: Eleva, Wisconsin
A simple fix
Posted by Greatmaker on Friday, December 9, 2016 10:38 PM

Maybe this has been mentioned before but if any of you use model master acrylic paints you probably had some experiences with trying to get the caps off. For years I have tried to meticulously clean the caps and bottles so they wouldn't stick. No matter what I did they usually still did and I had to use a pliers to get them open.  Well I tried using some wax paper and just screwing the cap on over that so far I've had zero problems with the caps sticking.  Hope this helps

 

  • Member since
    November 2016
Posted by Gerhard on Saturday, December 10, 2016 5:09 AM
Good plan!!! Thanks for that.
  • Member since
    March 2015
  • From: Streetsboro, Ohio
Posted by Toshi on Saturday, December 10, 2016 5:28 AM

Wax paper, who would of thought?  Brilliant!  I'm gonna go over all my model master paint jars and get them waxed.  I noticed that especially the cleat coat flat and the clear gloss coat always has those issues.  Thank you for this information!

Toshi

 

On The Bench: Revell 1/48 B-25 Mitchell

 

Married to the most caring, loving, understanding, and beautiful wife in the world.  Mrs. Toshi

 

 

  • Member since
    August 2013
Posted by Jay Jay on Saturday, December 10, 2016 9:24 AM

very clever. I love all the input from you fellows here. 

 

 

 

 

 

 I'm finally retired. Now time I got, money I don't.

  • Member since
    April 2009
  • From: Longmont, Colorado
Posted by Cadet Chuck on Saturday, December 10, 2016 9:53 AM

I clamp the jar into my big shop vise and twist off the cap with a large adjustable wrench.  Brute force always wins!

Gimme a pigfoot, and a bottle of beer...

  • Member since
    January 2009
  • From: hamburg michigan
Posted by fermis on Saturday, December 10, 2016 10:30 AM

Have not had an issue, since I switched from shaking the paint to stirring it....and, the paint lasts a lot longer!

  • Member since
    August 2014
  • From: Willamette Valley, Oregon
Posted by goldhammer on Saturday, December 10, 2016 10:59 AM

Rather than wax paper, which you can contaminate the paint with bits of wax or residue, try the "saran wrap" type of material.  anything that puts a layer of a different material between jar and lid.

 

In the body trade we have "alignment tools", rather than channel lock pliers.  Range from normal 3-4 lb alignment to fine alignment at 6-8 lbs, and ultra fine at 10 lbs, and my favorite, a 12 lb micro fine on a 36 inch handle.  Haven't found a container that I can't open, but once in awhile the contents suffer.

  • Member since
    April 2013
  • From: Eleva, Wisconsin
Posted by Greatmaker on Saturday, December 10, 2016 1:29 PM

goldhammer

Rather than wax paper, which you can contaminate the paint with bits of wax or residue, try the "saran wrap" type of material.  anything that puts a layer of a different material between jar and lid.

 

In the body trade we have "alignment tools", rather than channel lock pliers.  Range from normal 3-4 lb alignment to fine alignment at 6-8 lbs, and ultra fine at 10 lbs, and my favorite, a 12 lb micro fine on a 36 inch handle.  Haven't found a container that I can't open, but once in awhile the contents suffer.

 

I thought about that as well but so far even with magnification I haven't seen any wax chips in the paint but I will try Saran Wrap as well. Thanks 

 

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