A simple fix

goldhammer

Rather than wax paper, which you can contaminate the paint with bits of wax or residue, try the "saran wrap" type of material.  anything that puts a layer of a different material between jar and lid.

 

In the body trade we have "alignment tools", rather than channel lock pliers.  Range from normal 3-4 lb alignment to fine alignment at 6-8 lbs, and ultra fine at 10 lbs, and my favorite, a 12 lb micro fine on a 36 inch handle.  Haven't found a container that I can't open, but once in awhile the contents suffer.

 

I thought about that as well but so far even with magnification I haven't seen any wax chips in the paint but I will try Saran Wrap as well. Thanks 

Rather than wax paper, which you can contaminate the paint with bits of wax or residue, try the "saran wrap" type of material.  anything that puts a layer of a different material between jar and lid.

In the body trade we have "alignment tools", rather than channel lock pliers.  Range from normal 3-4 lb alignment to fine alignment at 6-8 lbs, and ultra fine at 10 lbs, and my favorite, a 12 lb micro fine on a 36 inch handle.  Haven't found a container that I can't open, but once in awhile the contents suffer.

Have not had an issue, since I switched from shaking the paint to stirring it....and, the paint lasts a lot longer!

I clamp the jar into my big shop vise and twist off the cap with a large adjustable wrench.  Brute force always wins!

very clever. I love all the input from you fellows here. 

Wax paper, who would of thought?  Brilliant!  I'm gonna go over all my model master paint jars and get them waxed.  I noticed that especially the cleat coat flat and the clear gloss coat always has those issues.  Thank you for this information!

Toshi