Bell X-1 1:32; First Build - Help!

Most important advice I can give you is, do not use the airbrush on the model first, without practice!  Practice using the airbrush on scrap plastic.  It takes less time to practice on something first, than the time spent removing a bad paint coat from a plastic model. Half an hour of practice will make a lot of difference.  Try a couple of different mixture ratios, brush adjustments, and pressures during the practice session so you can see the effects of those variables.

I completely agree with Don, getting used to the airbrush, paints, thinning ratios and pressures, will be the best time investment. Getting to know the airbrush control adjustments, then the cleaning of the AB after painting might all seem a bit difficult at the start, but a little time spent will clear up most of the questions that will arise.

Have you looked at "Don Wheelers Airbrush" website yet? That's a terrific introduction to all things airbrush related, plus a detailed review of the Badger 105, if that's what you have decided on.I use one, a very nice AB indeed. Good luck with your getting started.

Patrick

Ultra....thanks for being here and posting.  I've learned SO much from these members and this site....and just remember.....there are NO stupid questions....EVER.  The ONLY stupid question is the one you DON'T ask.  That's what we're all here for...to LEARN and give advice.

Never hesitate to ASK...for every question, there are 10 different answers, ALL correct.  Again - I can't stress strongly enough...there are NO silly questions.

Do yourself a BIG favor...read up on GOOD airbrushes, buy one (and a good air source - go to Lowes and buy a Bostich compressor with a holding tank), and PRACTICE.  You'll be surprised how EASY it is to get good results.  Start slow, then get more adventurous. 

I have 3...a Paasche VLS, a Master G22, and an Iwata HP-BH - they all have different benefits.  Extend your horizons...it can be frustrating - but....ASK.
There's usually 20 replies for most questions....I've learned so much from all the people on this site!

Nice, simple kit for getting started with!

I just built it a couple months ago. You might find something useful in the thread...

http://cs.finescale.com/fsm/modeling_subjects/f/2/t/173318.aspx

Best tip I can give you...when it comes time to paint. Bright colors like red and yellow...and everything in between..go down WAY better over a base coat of flat white.

Thank you all for your interest, advice and guidence! Look foward to learning from everyones wisdom and my own pratcial experience.

Hey Fermis, good tip and one I remeber from having read through your thread.  Really a fantastic job your did on the model in that thread and a good reference for me.  

I have some .016" brass wire that I intend to use behind the instrument panel.  Looks like you drilled it out and then what glue did you use to hold the wire in place?

Well, sitting here looking for railroad jobs online and scribing for the first time.  Using the reverse end of the Xacto against my sanding board as a straight edge.  Seems to work semi-decently with the exception that the Xacto gets pretty dull fast.  Already thinking about making my own pin vice and sowing neelde or purchasing a scriber for this purpose.  I took a 120 grit sanding board to the scribes to knock the plastic down, but does anyone have any good tips on how to clean the panel lines our really well?

Also, I see in some peoples models that they prime and then scribe.  Hope I didn't mess up.

Well how about an update...

This is my first model aircraft and this thing is sure a lot of fun!  I'm learning a lot as I go and hoping that I remember some of my mistakes before I make them in my next build.  I guess that's called experience.

So thanks to Lawdog's great cockpit tutorial and I have a decent enough cockpit for my first serious model building attempt.  Once that was done and putting the halves together and sealing it up....what a pain that was!!!  Finally I got it though.

I primed the model in Testors acrylic primer.  Once stirred, it looked like it was thin enough to shoot through my airbrush without thinning.  That almost killed my Badger though because that stuff started to harden up and clog the system.  I didn't see anything on the bottle about thinning it but might have to experiment with some Testors airbrush thinner next time.  Either that or spray the Tamiya primer out of the can.

I thinned and shot the orange over a flat white primer and I think it went well.  I think I was shooting some water in there though becuase it's a little coarse.  Definately need a moisture trap on my tank.  Biggest issue here was I really don't have a jig to prop the airplane up on and paint.  In turn I damaged the paint under a my wings when I proped it up against a box.  Going to have to solve this problem before my next major model attempt.  

So need to fix the wheel wells, canopy and decals before I call this one a wrap.

What a great job.  It looks to be a very good job you did With everything!

Toshi

Glad to have you aboard Mate.

You sure have done your homework . That cockpit looks terrific.

A tip from your Uncle Jay; you can make your own acrylic thinner which is as good or better than Tamiya's for a lot less money. here's the formula 2/3 water,1/3 90% iso alcohol,1ml. flow improver,1ml. fluid retarder. I usually make a quart at a time.

The flow improver and fluid retarder can be found at Hobby Lobby ,initialy pricey but will last a long time.  .

Welcome to the hobby, I was a CFI a few years ago, but not anymore. As far as scribing panel lines, I will do 2-3 light passes with my scribing tool (I get better results with a tool designed for scribing rather than a pin in a pinvise), sand with 600 grit or better sandpaper, clean the line out with a toothpick then an old toothbrush, and lastly Tamiya Extra Thin Cement which melts any small bits of plastic that remains. I'm looking forward to seeing your X-1 finished.

7474 gave good advice on "regular" scribing but if you use a UMM scriber you don't hafta do any of that. The scriber actually cuts out the plastic from the groove and doesn't leave"plow lines"  or ridges next to the cut so all that sanding and cleaning is unecesary.

All done...First model I've ever completed!  First time, sanding, filing, feeling gaps, mixing paint, airbrushing, dry brushing, adding washes, applying decals, etc, etc.

It's not pretty but it's complete!  Really my biggest mistake was applying Dullcoat with a brush and not thining it with a laquer thinner.  Really bad idea.  Left a bunch of brush strokes on the model and just looks overall really bad.  Second biggest mistake was I the very aggressive panel lines, but hey, I didn't start out with the right tool.  Third, biggest mistake was building this at my kitchen table...Don't have much furniture so no designated model area and things got banged around pretty bad on here.  Oh well, the experience was well worth it and the next model should be an improvement over this one if I've learned anything.

Appreciate everyones help on the board and through PM's!

I'm not sure how bad it might be sitting in front of you, but those pictures show a very nicely finished Bell X-1. I see a good looking model.  :)

Honestly that's a well done model and cameras don't lie. 

Ultra - that's WAAAY better than my first attempt.  Nicely done, mate.

Definately get a regulator and a water trap.  And lots of companies make "quick disconnect" fittings for your airbrush - Amazon has tons of them.  As an example, see:

https://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-Release-Disconnect-Connections/dp/B001MKGOUM

Search for your airbrush brand, and you'll find it.

Also, there are tons of great scribers out there. 

https://www.amazon.com/Squadron-Products-SQ10202-Scribing-Tool/dp/B000GKWE1C

And JLC makes an AWESOME little razor saw that's fantastic for scribing and cutting.

http://www.umm-usa.com/catalog/tools_JLCsaw002.html

I bought mine years ago, with a bunch of spare blades - but I'm still using the first blade.  The thing is super value for money - and very useful.  Go have a look at Micromark's website for tools and materials....you'll drive yourself nuts!

http://www.micromark.com/mini-hand-tools?gclid=COSO1Zbe_9QCFQ94fgodTz0KdA

Like I said, mate - got a question?  Just ask.  Funny thing about modelers - I've never, ever asked a question from a modeler (even trophy winners at model contests) who will refuse to answer the question "how did you do THAT!!??"  We're all a pretty generous bunch....living vicariously and enjoying seeing other people having fun.

Enjoy, mate.  And thanks for the pics of your X-1!  That was cool.

Thanks a lot guys!

leemitcheltree - Thanks for the recommendations and links!  I like this forum compared to some of my other collecting forums for my other hobby.  Here artists are friendly and always willing to share ideas and tips.  In the militaria collecting world it's full of massive egos, crooks, and all sorts of shady people. We're talking about people that take a military helmet, weather and camoflauge it and sell it for thousands of dollars to other collectors.  Not everyone of course, but a lot of people.  I kind of like these model minded folks a little better haha...

You did a great job and it looks great. 

Go to Harbor Freight and get yourself a moisture trap for under $10. And the best stand/holder I can recommend is a plain wire hanger. It can be twisted and shaped into any form. I have several and boy do they come in handy.

As fermis said about white under red, same thing for yellow colors. The white cuts down the number of coats to spray with these two colors and produces a deeper shade. If you want a weathered look for yellow then shoot light tan first which changes the tone.  

Very true what you said about the helmets and the same thing goes for German sniper rigs. Currently there are more German WWII "matching" K-98 sniper rigs floating around than actual ones made back then. Some of these jokers want $8K to $10K for these counterfeit rigs.

That turned out great!

A moisture trap makes a world of difference, especially in this humid weather. My compressor has a built in trap but I found I needed an inline trap to stop the spattering. Well worth the under $10 investment.