Help me paint canopy frames correctly

I like using Tamiya masking tape for canopy masking. I have not yet used bare metal foil, but at this point, I have found nothing better. And I have tried several other items and methods. After prepping the clear parts with Future and allowing them plenty of time to dry, I will hold the clear part up to back light it for a better view of the framing and lay the straight edge of the tape against the framing. Trim as needed with a new sharp xacto blade, and once the edging is done, I fill in the centers. If it is a canopy with lots of framework, you won't have to do much filling, just lots of trimming. The straight edge of the tape lessens (but depending upon paint type used, may not eliminate) the possibility of rough edges when the masking is removed. Tamiya tape is easily removed with a toothpick to lift a corner, and then pulled off with tweezers.

Ditto Stikpusher's method and advice.

From what you've said - yes, it sounds like you used too much paint. Mist it on slowly and build up. If you go too heavy, you will also run the risk of the paint leaking under the mask, so it's much better to have a dry-ish mist coat built up.

Another tip i saw recently (but haven't tried myself) - to clear away paint from the canopy, use a piece of the sharpened sprue of the canopy. Logically it makes sense, something made of the same material shouldn't scratch itself.

I realize Tamiya masking tape is the preferred method but the canopy is so tiny (Academy La-7, 1/48) I'm having a hard time creating masks of appropropriately tiny size.

On complicated greehouses like the SBD and TBF and such, I have started a new method which is slow but gives good results.  I mask and paint in two or three steps. I mask off all the vertical frames, and don't need to cut the tape accurately.  I use the narrowest tape I can find, or cut thinner strips.  I go from one side to the other, right across the longitudinal frames.  I then paint, then remove tape.  Now I do the same thing (mask-paint) for the longitudinal frames.  Then, I do any diagonal frames in a third session.  Yes, it leaves some slight ridges, but I find I can polish these down okay.

  This procedure eliminates cutting each panel, which is sometimes hard if the canopy or greenhouse does not have crisp enough molding.

I just built this exact kit. I use Scotch tape for my windows now. It's clear and I can see EXACTLY where to trim. Once the masks are one shoot them with clear gloss, then add your cockpit color and then outer color. A bit more difficult to remove initially but well worth the effort. The clear will prevent bleading of the cockpit color and leave a very sharp edge.

BK

Burnish the tape with a toothpick.

Frames are always a challenge and there appears to be no standard good way to do them. Painting by hand worked when I was young and steady and I still do some with that method using acrylic paint and sharpened toothpicks to scrape off mistakes. I never do well at masking but in some cases it works well. It always seems I get a leak somewhere. 

Don't forget the striping tape method. It can be trimmed to width and even painted before application. 

I think "all of the above" is the answer for the problem. 

Just my opinion and good luck!

Max 

My . I think that Max gave the correct answer. Try "all of the above" until you find the one that works well for you. They are your builds and you are the one that has to be pleased with them.

Personally, I use Dons method of taping one way and then the other. Have used it many times with great results.

Jim  

BrandonK

I just built this exact kit. I use Scotch tape for my windows now. It's clear and I can see EXACTLY where to trim. Once the masks are one shoot them with clear gloss, then add your cockpit color and then outer color. A bit more difficult to remove initially but well worth the effort. The clear will prevent bleading of the cockpit color and leave a very sharp edge.

 

 

I would suggest to stay away from clear or frosted scotch tape as a canopy mask. in my experience that stuff sticks like there is no tomorrow, tends to shatter or fragment during removal, and usually leaves adhesive residue on the clear parts. And if you have any decal work in the immediate area... watch out... one slip and by by decal...

stikpusher

sticks like there is no tomorrow, tends to shatter or fragment during removal, and usually leaves adhesive residue on the clear parts

How true that is. This is only a technique you should try if you are comfortable doing so. I use it and it works fine as I know the limitations of using it. I also use "Goo Gone" to remove the residue with no effort so my results are fine. But, try and try something until YOU find one that fits YOUR preferences. This art is all about learning and doing new things.

BK

I use regular making tape and the fexible vinyl Tamiya tape for curves. I shoot multiple very light paint coats to avoid buildup. I also spray at an angle away from the tape line so not to force paint under the tape.

Works every time

Eduard pre-cut masks. I look for them for just about all complicated canopies. These are the greatest thing since Kentucky Fried Chicken and Dr. Pepper.

For easy canopies I use Stik's method. It works great. 

lawdog114

Eduard pre-cut masks. I look for them for just about all complicated canopies. These are the greatest thing since Kentucky Fried Chicken and Dr. Pepper.

 

For easy canopies I use Stik's method. It works great. 

 

At this point I'm too damn old, crotchety and blind to mess with anything but pre-cut masks on a greenhouse canopy.