I don't need to lay praise on your builds, they are all excellent.

I built one of the early variants of this kit, add more ballast than you think you will need and strengthen the front landing gear leg.

Subscribed!

damouav

I built one of the early variants of this kit, add more ballast than you think you will need and strengthen the front landing gear leg.

Subscribed!

 

Thanks for following guys, 

Damian, Indeed you need a ton of fishing lead in the nose.  I just haven't gotten to that part yet.  I also lenghten the front gear a smidge so it gives the model that characteristic backwards lean that parked P-38s have.    

The fit may be horrible but you always make it look good! 

Love the P-38 and your excellent work. Watching in earnest.  I have a 1/32 Trumpeter P-38 and hoping to learn something for it thru your WIP. Thanks for posting Mate.

I'm glad you are building this one. I have this kit and have always heard the kit is a challenge. I will be book marking this one for furture reference. Great work on the pit, Joe and I will take your advise and just add a seat.

BK

Always have a soft spot for the P-38.  My wife's uncle worked for Kelly Johnson at Skunkworks.  He helped design the SR-71 and the F-117. He's an amazing man to listen to

1/48 P-38 is on my wishlist. I’ll be watching.

Out of curiosity is the Revell/Monogram kit any better build wise?

Dave

shamoo

Out of curiosity is the Revell/Monogram kit any better build wise? 

Thanks all, 

Maker, now that’s cool info. Kelly was a genius. 

Dave, let’s put it this way, the second model I built when I returned to the hobby was the Monogram P-38. I almost quit again.... It’s crude. That’s not to say it can’t be built up nice, but it would take a lot of work. 

As always, great start.  I’ll be following!

Your friend, Toshi

lawdog114

 

 

shamoo

Out of curiosity is the Revell/Monogram kit any better build wise? 

 

 

 

 

Thanks all, 

Maker, now that’s cool info. Kelly was a genius. 

Dave, let’s put it this way, the second model I built when I returned to the hobby was the Monogram P-38. I almost quit again.... It’s crude. That’s not to say it can’t be built up nice, but it would take a lot of work. 

 

Thanks for that.  Maybe I won’t be so picky.  Not to hi jack your thread, but is there a decent kit in any scale?

Joe, as usual I'll be following your build. You keep me interested in bettering my skills and present us all with model-making eye candy on a regular basis. I'm subscribed.

Now, as to what kit of a 1/48 scale P-38 is the best one on the market just now .. I'd also like to know. I have the Eduard Pacific Lightnings Limited Edition kit in my stash which, I believe, uses the Academy molds? Anyway I'd like to know what you think.

Sounds a bit miserable, but is looking really good, which is the main thing. :)

-J

Hey Joe,

Sorry to hear you had such poor fit issues....

But, as always the pit looks outstanding. I'll be here watching and learning. 

The pit looks awesome Joe! looking for to seeing paint go down. When you paint the markings what's your paint mixture for the insignia blue?

Another Joe, er, I mean Gonzo McBean build.  Always look forward to seeing you do your stuff.  Let us know how you fix the problems.  That is a great help to those of us who are "construction challenged.

ManCityFan

Another Joe, er, I mean Gonzo McBean build.  

 

Ha!....I'll only answer to Gonzo if I go on the lam......  I'm glad you get the humor. 

Thanks for the encouragment folks.  I'm in for a quick update.  This thing consumed most of my Sunday evening.  I started by using 5 minute epoxy (instead of super glue) to secure the cockpit.  This way I could adjust it as it sets when I position the top piece.  I also added some fishing weights to the nose to keep it from being a tail sitter.  Hopefully I used enough.  It's not pretty but won't be seen.

I then turned my attention to the booms and landing gear bay inserts. Here I have a boom assembled, seams sanded and the gear box dryfitted.

Now a close up.  Here's where most of the fit issues with boom alignment on this kit arise.  See where the red arrow is pointed?  That sticks up and prevents a proper fit. 

The solution?... shave, sand or Dremel out the circled (below) area for the needed clearance. 

Dremel makes quick work of it.

 Perfect fit now...

Next is the fun part of trying to sand out the seams where the booms meet the wing.  I know......baby steps.  

Good work, every single build I wont to do or in this case redo your already on it.

That was the same problem I had with the boom and fitment, bad design on Mr. Hasegawa behalf.

But you overcame and won!

damouav

That was the same problem I had with the boom and fitment, bad design on Mr. Hasegawa behalf.

But you overcame and won!

 

Thanks bud,

Well, I haven't exactly won.  I've built several of these, but this one has decided to fight me all the way.  It's by far the worst fit-wise for some reason. I had a mishap with a Dremel trying to make clearance for the pit, so I had to replace the top piece from a kit in my stash (hence the lighter colored plastic).  I got the booms attached and lower wings on only to discover they were crooked.  When placed on a flat surface, the port boom sat about a quarter off the table.  Something was warped somewhere and I couldn't figure it out.  Out of pure anger, I twisted the whole frame.  Miraculously this sort of worked.  It's not perfect but I can live with it.  I got to this point and said good enough.  For some reason this particular kit has alot of flash on it.  I suspect the mold is getting long in the tooth and I had some warpage somewhere.  

I primed it and discovered I still have a few areas that need work.  This isn't too uncommon with this kit.  

I should be ready to throw down some Aluminum soon.  The worst is over.  

Pretty bold strategy doing this plane in NMF, I’m a little scared. But it seems as if you’ve got things mostly under control! 

Awesome tip about the landing gear box. Will definitely file that one away for future reference. 

Through all your endeavors that were difficult in nature (At every step) you’ve been successful with this build.  Experience and technique are the many examples of your work on the Hasegawa P-38.  Good luck on continuing your path to success.  

Your friend, Toshi

Thrilled to see you take on another P-38 Joe!

I went through Jack Ilfrey's book this summer, it was good read too, with plenty of illustrations and good-size pictures.

My own Hasegawa P-38 turned into a real nightmare and seeing that you got problems that you didn't met previously, I'm thinking you're right about the mold getting old :

- I had the crooked boom problem ; I shaved and shaved the inside of the boom before understanding that the part itself was the problem ; I didn't dare twist it, so I just superglued it into place ; it sit on the shelf for a long time and one bright morning I noticed the wing had started to crack! No breaking thankfully, but a 1 or 2 cm white line starting from the seam on the upper side of the wing... I'm trying to hide it with putty and sanding, thankfully there was no paint on yet

- the pod was awfully ill fitting, there was a groove where it joined the nose, like a bumped car ; I had to fill, sand and rescribe (first time!) to try to smooth it out...

- the True Details cockpit is some piece of work too... you were kind enough to answer me through e-mail, I had to sand it paper thin AND sand the wheel well (who is now a little damaged)... and it still is ill-fitting... Like you said, you gotta settle for "good enough"

Eager to see yours finished, you basically built every favorite of mine and it's eye candy every time ;-)

Looks terrific Joe. I'm going to have to remember your modifications whenever I get around to building another P-38.

Hobbie

- the pod was awfully ill fitting, there was a groove where it joined the nose, like a bumped car ; I had to fill, sand and rescribe (first time!) to try to smooth it out...

Oh yeah, I forgot to mention that misery.  Perhaps I was subliminally trying to block that part.  Absolutely horrible fit.  It was almost like the ends curled inward and left a groove.  Lots of filler and sanding. 

I got some quality bench time in last night.  I started by fixing some seam issues.  Some are not quite perfect but I got to the point with this kit where it was good enough.  I sanded the primer cote with 2000 grit paper and once I was happy it was smooth, I fired down Alclad II Duraluminum.  This is my go-to base shade, as it gives that combat war-weary appearance to my eye.  I had to fix a few more ghost seam lines and respray a few more times. Once I was satisfied, I taped off a a few panels and sprayed regular Aluminum, Semi Matte Aluminum and Dark Aluminum.  There was no rhyme or reason to it, just to break up the monotone silver.

Happy Jack's Go buggy had Olive Drab anti-glare panels and yellow boom tips.  The nose had a white stripe and the cone itself was polished silver.  It's my understanding the 20th FG did this as a ruse to simulate glass to make the Luftwaffe think it was an unarmed recon Lightning.  This way when they attacked they would be in for a nice surprise. Anyways, these were taped off and added. 

Note: I find that with NMF subjects, its best to add stripes, ID bands and such after the NMF, otherwise the Alclad will leave a step. I used Gunze OD and Flat Yellow cut with a touch of Flat Red.  The nose was done in Flat White and the tip in Alcad Polished Aluminum.  

I then began a postshade.  I should mention, for some reason I have trouble postshading NMFs.  It just never comes out right.  I suspect it's due to the surface being slippery and the paint wont dig in, as it tends to splatter.  I have to keep adding paint to the diluted mixture (Flat Black with Red Brown in 91 alcohol) and it doesnt take long before it starts looking overdone, which I hate.  I concentrated around the anti-glare panels and superchargers.  I'm hoping a nice Flory wash will dirty it up considerably.

Here I added more Flat Black to the mix and I threw down the supercharger exhaust stains.  I think this is about right.

We are ready for some decals.  I have to hit the painted areas with some clear coat first.      

The different colors of NMF to offset things are awesome.  And your staining technique is fantastic, I feel you got it on this one Lawdog114.  You can’t even see the seams.  I have several questions if you don’t mind?

When you tape the panels off, does the tape at the time of removal pull off any of the Alclad?  

And if not, what type of tape do you use.  

What’s the PSI for shooting the exhaust stains, somewhere between 10-15 PSI?  

Also what type of AB do you use?  

Thank you in advance.

Your friend, Toshi 

Really nice paint work Joe! Looking forward to seeing the decals go down!