I have TONS of wood airplane plans on thumbdrive. I used to scratchbuild RC all the time. I have RC and RB. I got alot of them from:

https://aerofred.com     Free site.

Check it out.

I also may be able to send you some plans on PDF if you wanted to see a list. I would need to find the list first.

1Cool!I finished the main wing and am cutting out the fuselage formers.  

Excellent!!

i have the whole fleet of Guillows WWI subjects to build some day, also the old Sinbad and Super Sinbad towline gliders. Built several of the Sinbads back in high school, they flew really well - even watched one disappear into a cloud...

That looks great! Looking forward to your build. 

Balsa is a great way to cure plastic burnout. I'm currently working on the Guillows FW190. 

Here are some other sites with free plans and building tips. You can print the plans full-size on letter size paper by selecting Actual size, Poster, Tile on your printer options. Then just trim and tape the pages together for the full size plan and printwood. 

I spray temporary adhesive to the printwood page, let it set for about 30 seconds then stick it on the balsa. Cut out the pieces then peel off the paper. 

Almost forgot to add the links!

Use the Browse dropdown menu on Outerzone, will keep you busy for hours

https://outerzone.co.uk/

Beautiful models, has CAD plans for some of the classic Comet kits

http://www.parmodels.com/home.html

Another favorite

http://www.ffscale.co.uk/

Remember, there are two kinds of balsa models, the stick and former, tissue covered models, and the ones carved from solid wood blocks.  In my neighborhood we called the former stick models and the latter solid models.

There are many companies still producing stick model kits.  Solid model kits are far less common today.  New companies come out offering kits, but the companies don't seem to last long.  Old solid kits do appear on eBay occasionlly, though.

If I am scratchbuilding, I usually build fabric covered aircraft using stick and tissue, metal aircraft with solid wood, although fabric wings can be duplicated easily by carving and then laying down strips of paper or plastic to simulate the pinking tape and ribstitching.

Also, most kit solid models did not provide cockpit interiors, but there are techniques for solids using multiple blocks and sheet wood to make detailed cockpits.

One of the neat advances today in stick models is laser cutting, that eliminates the tedium of cutting out all those ribs and formers.

Yes sir!it was quite tedious cutting out all of the fuselage formers /bulkheads ,but I can finally commence fyselafe construction. 

Oh wow, haven't built a balsa and tissue aircraft in decades! 

She's lookin' good, please keep us informed! 

Gamera

Oh wow, haven't built a balsa and tissue aircraft in decades! 

She's lookin' good, please keep us informed! 

 

Why not?  Lots available, and the kits are better than ever.  Biggest problem now is finding kits and vendors, since Flying Models magazine went belly-up several years ago.  There are forums, however, and google as always is a great help.  One good vendor that carries several (but not all) is Penn Valley Hobbies.

And I thought I was cool making my own laminated wood props for plastic models.

Can't wait to see this. It's quite an undertaking.

-BD-

Don Stauffer

 

 

Gamera

Oh wow, haven't built a balsa and tissue aircraft in decades! 

She's lookin' good, please keep us informed! 

 

 

 

 

Why not?  Lots available, and the kits are better than ever.  Biggest problem now is finding kits and vendors, since Flying Models magazine went belly-up several years ago.  There are forums, however, and google as always is a great help.  One good vendor that carries several (but not all) is Penn Valley Hobbies.

 

 

Lol Don, it's like a couple of local guys trying to get me back into model railroading. My stash is so big now the absolute last thing I need to do is to pick up yet another hobby... 

Yes guys very interesting challenge!I got the horizontal stabs and tail constructed,as well as putting the stringers on the fuselage.  

Don Stauffer

 

 

Gamera

Oh wow, haven't built a balsa and tissue aircraft in decades! 

She's lookin' good, please keep us informed! 

 

 

 

 

Why not?  Lots available, and the kits are better than ever.  Biggest problem now is finding kits and vendors, since Flying Models magazine went belly-up several years ago.  There are forums, however, and google as always is a great help.  One good vendor that carries several (but not all) is Penn Valley Hobbies.

 

 

Don, I think Penn Valley went under too. 

I've been known to put sticks together and cover them up, too:

http://www.yolo.net/%7Ejeaton/gems/gems.htm

Hi ;

 Last stick and paper plane I did was a model of my old J-4 . Flew great too , for a f.f. model . I had to put the real one back together and the Wife and I did the fabric and dope covering ourselves !

 This aircraft had a real problem though . All it wanted to do at speeds faster than a human running , was fly ! Great lift and flight surface area . Ground Effects were a problem on landing though .

Philo ;

 The Eindecker ( one wing ) was always one of my favorites from the " Great War ". Even then , us " Huns " had some neat planes !

Yes!Next to the DR1 my fave WWl German fighter!I used Lego plates and bricks to use as an assembly fixture to set the dihederal.  

See !

 That's what I mean , LEGOS can be such a help . This applies to Cars , Ships , Planes and yes Armor too . LEGOS make perfect or nearly perfect build stands for ships especially .

UnwaryPaladin

 

 

Don Stauffer

 

 

Gamera

Oh wow, haven't built a balsa and tissue aircraft in decades! 

She's lookin' good, please keep us informed! 

 

 

 

 

Why not?  Lots available, and the kits are better than ever.  Biggest problem now is finding kits and vendors, since Flying Models magazine went belly-up several years ago.  There are forums, however, and google as always is a great help.  One good vendor that carries several (but not all) is Penn Valley Hobbies.

 

 

 

 

 

Don, I think Penn Valley went under too. 

 

Oh! So it did!  That is too bad.  Now, without FM mag, and Penn Valley, one will have to do a complicated Google search.  Much as l use Google, their search algorithms have tilted greatly towards their advertisers, and I have to do an Advanced Search these days in stead of a normal search.  :-(

I chose to use diluted white glue to attach the tissue to the tail and horizontal stabilizers.Worked wel, and I tightened it up with a light spray of a 50 /50 mix of water and alcohol.I plan on painting the tail white and making a stencil for the Maltese cross.

Any thoughts on dope? The old smelly stuff is hard to find, but EZ Dope works very well. Here's a method of applying that seems to work well for me: 

1) After shrinking tissue (which you've done) spray a 5% mixture of EZ Dope on the model. I use an atomizer from the Dollar Store.

2) Brush on two coats of a 30% mixture of EZ Dope. I use a disposable sponge brush. Don't saturate the brush, apply just enough solution to wet the tissue. 

Following the instructions provided by EZ Dope will most likely warp your model, it's too concentrated. Not sure why they recommend their method. 

I am not farmiliar with EZ dope, but if it is the same as taughtnig dope it will "pull" more with more coats applied. It has an acumelitive effect as the coats are built up. Like they did in the old days using cotton on full size.

Theuns

Since I do not have the proper decals and masking tape is a no go on the tissue,I decided to make  a stencil out of plastic for the tail.I will make more stencils for the wings and fuselage crosses. 

Carefully airbrushing the black.  

Started covering the wings abd fuselage I will apply mire alcohol to shrink it tight,Takes a few applications.  

Painting the white areas prior to the cross template.

Stencils workd quite well,no damage to the tissue.