SEARCH FINESCALE.COM

Enter keywords or a search phrase below:

black pre-shading and chipping

385 views
5 replies
1 rating 2 rating 3 rating 4 rating 5 rating
  • Member since
    February, 2015
  • From: Wisconsin
black pre-shading and chipping
Posted by Airborne_Trooper11B on Sunday, September 09, 2018 2:39 AM

Hey all, been a long while since I've logged on. Anyway I'm back and esstactic to do two things: First- I FINALLY took the plunge into the world of airbrushing. Second- Just as I learned that Revell had discontinued a whole messload of models, I happened to come across what apparently was the LAST B-17 available in my area. 

 

Anywhoo, here's my problem. (And I apologize if this has been asked/answered, no amount of phrasing I tried, got to the exact question I had in mind).

I plan on doing a base black coat with various shading, rather than shading individual panel lines. So with that in mind, how would I go about layering, given the fact that I'll also be going for the chipping effect and not have the areas I wanna chip, look vastly different (shade wise) from other areas of the plane?

My thinking is- the aluminum that shows through with chipping is the plane's true color, so no matter what the paint scheme is, or how far into hell and back the aircraft has been, it's foundation is aluminum. So should I paint the entire plane in aluminum, put the chipping effect over areas I wanna chip (or all over to eliminate guess work) and then proceed to shading (starting with a black coat)? That way no matter how man layers of shade I add, when I chip; what shows through at the bottom is bare aluminum (which can be weathered, dirt/grit wise later).

I seriously think I solved my dillemma, trying to find a coherent way to explain this lol, but I still would love to hear what you guys think! Thanks and cheers! 

  • Member since
    December, 2003
  • From: Charleston, SC
Posted by sanderson_91 on Sunday, September 09, 2018 10:47 AM

I would black base the whole plane and just use aluminium in the areas that you want to chip.

Steve

 

 

  • Member since
    June, 2016
Posted by Murphy's Law on Sunday, September 09, 2018 10:54 AM
What I did on my last build (Hasegawa P-40E, you can look back a few weeks ago and find it in the aircraft section) was to do the black basing, followed by the base color in various shades to simulate fading and added chipping effects at the end with a fine foam sponge material dabbed in aluminum paint. To me this was much easier than chipping away to an underlying aluminum paint. That’s just how I chose to do it and I was happy with the results.
  • Member since
    March, 2003
Posted by rangerj on Sunday, September 09, 2018 7:43 PM

An old method often used is to do the areas you want to see chips in aluminum, maybe the whole aircraft. You then apply a masking material where you want chips and then shade and finally the camo colors. Peel your masking material and you have natual metal "chips", or wear spots. Try a few methods and use the one that works for you.

Currahee, MOS 11Bravo. Two things fall out of the sky, bird droppings and airborn. I took the last train to Clarksville too. Kilroy was a weld inspector in a ship yard and he would signify where he had inspected the welds in the ship with "Kilroy was here". The troops that took the ships over to Europe (and the Asian theaters?) created the cartoon and it spread like wildfire. I think Bill Mauldon's cartoons in the Stars and Stripes may have helped the spread of the cartoon character and the expression "Killroy was hear".

 

  • Member since
    November, 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Monday, September 10, 2018 8:38 AM

Depends on the scale, as far as I am concerned.  In smaller scales I just use a toothpick or very fine tip brush during weathering. I just put down very small dots and lines to simulate scratches and pits in paint.  In large scale, where you can percieve something about the depth of scratches, using an aluminum base and fancy schemes may pay off.  However, for just a few chips and scratches here and there, I have even just used the aluminum paint over the final finish and it looked okay.  Drybrushed aluminum looks fine on large scale.

 

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    February, 2015
  • From: Wisconsin
Posted by Airborne_Trooper11B on Thursday, September 13, 2018 5:24 AM
Thanks for all the tips guys! I think I might do the toothpick/wool technique. Pics when I'm done!

JOIN OUR COMMUNITY!

Our community is FREE to join. To participate you must either login or register for an account.

SEARCH FORUMS

FREE NEWSLETTER
By signing up you may also receive reader surveys and occasional special offers. We do not sell, rent or trade our email lists. View our Privacy Policy.